From Kem to Solovki. Short and pleasant route for those who are not in a hurry

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I wanted to see the White Sea. The Solovetsky Islands seemed to me the most suitable place for this.

Ekaterina Mikhailova

went to Solovki

This is an archipelago in the Arkhangelsk region, 160 km from the Arctic Circle. I spent six days there: cycling around the islands, eating fish soup, watching white whales.

I organized the trip myself. Before the vacation, I studied the virtual tour of the archipelago, the site of the museum-reserve and Vkontakte community about life on Solovki. It turned out unforgettable and two times cheaper than with a tour operator. In the article I will tell you how to get to Solovki without a tour operator, what to see and how much it costs.

Expenses on Solovki for six days for one person - 15,500 R

When to go

You can get to the archipelago by boat from June to October. The rest of the time, the islands are reached only by air.

The most popular time to visit Solovki is from mid-July to early August. At this time, all excursions and locations are available, you can swim in small lakes inside the island. But there are crowds of tourists and a lot of mosquitoes around.

If you dream of solitude, I recommend going in late summer or early autumn. The days are still warm, but the nights are fresh and pleasant. There are many berries and mushrooms in the forest, and you can walk barefoot on the moss. But swimming is likely to be cold. You won't be able to see white whales yet - beluga whales. The last excursion to the cape, from where you can see them, is carried out on August 15.

In winter or early spring, people go to Solovki for the sake of the northern lights, snowmobile walks in the forest or winter fishing. Excursions are carried out only on preliminary requests - you need to contact the bureau of the museum-reserve at least three days before the trip. The schedule and cost of winter excursions to Solovki can be found on the official website of the museum.

Winter on Solovki is warmer than on the mainland, but snowy and with snowstorms. The average temperature is -10 °C. Thirty degrees of frost is rare, but because of the wind and humidity, the cold is felt more strongly.

Summer on the islands is often cold, although there are exceptions: last year was hot and sunny. Water in the White Sea in summer warms up to 11 degrees on average, near the southern coast - up to 20 degrees. In winter, the sea does not freeze completely and, as the locals say, it even warms a little.

How to get there

The cheapest way to get to Solovki is by sea. Motor ships run from the berths of the Karelian cities of Kem and Belomorsk. The season starts June 1st and ends September 20th. Dates may change depending on the weather.

Through Kem. Kemi can be reached by car along the R-21 highway or by trains in the Murmansk direction. From Moscow to go a day, train number 016A arrives at half past one in the night. A reserved seat ticket costs from two thousand rubles. Train from St. Petersburg No. 022CH goes 13-15 hours. He arrives in Kem two hours before the ship. This is convenient because you do not have to look for a hotel for an overnight stay.

6555 R

I spent on the way there and back

We bought a ticket for a reserved seat car for 1909 R 20 days before the trip. In order not to spend the night in Kemi, we traveled from Moscow via St. Petersburg and stayed there for 10 hours. I spent 6555 R on the way there and back.

The motor ship to Solovki departs from the pier in the village of Rabocheostrovsk near Kem. It can be reached by taxi for 100 R per person. Taxis stand in front of the train station. The journey will take 15-20 minutes.

You can also take bus number 1. It runs every half an hour, the stop is opposite the station. The fare is 20 R. During the season, the Prichal tourist complex launches its own bus, but places on it must be booked in advance. The ticket costs 150 R.

Motor ships "Vasily Kosyakov" and "Metel" go from the pier in Rabocheostrovsk. There are two fixed-schedule flights to Solovki per day. Boarding starts in half an hour, the journey will take two hours. A round trip ticket costs 3200 R. Children under three years old travel free of charge, from three to ten years old - for 1600 R.

3200 R

there is a ticket for the ship Kem - Solovki and back

Tickets must be booked in advance on the Prichal Tourist Complex website. There you can also see the timetable of the ships and get a booked ticket for the ship Kem - Solovki. Adults will need a passport, children a birth certificate.

Locals say that private boats go to Solovki. You can’t buy tickets for them in advance or at least find out the schedule: the owners simply invite tourists on the pier. When I was in Rabocheostrovsk, I did not see them.

Renting a private boat as a whole will cost 12-25 thousand rubles. It will fit 6-10 people. Vessels must be booked in advance. Sometimes the owners require an advance payment. Their phone numbers can be checked.

Through Belomorsk. The road to Belomorsk takes 1-2 hours less than to Kem. Trains are the same. The berth is located in the village of Shizhnya, a 15-minute drive from the station. You can get there by bus number 6 for 30 R or by taxi.

A three-deck catamaran "Sapphire" runs from the pier to Solovki. It is comfortable: inside there are three passenger cabins with toilets, a large promenade deck, a cafe and even a gift shop with a library. The catamaran sails along the White Sea for four hours. Departs from Belomorsk at 8:00, and from the islands - at 19:00. Tickets can be bought on the website of the travel company.

From Arkhangelsk Solovki can be reached by motor ship Belomorye. It runs from June to September twice a month. You will have to spend more than a day on the road. The cost of one-way tickets is 2440 R. They can be bought five days before departure at the box office in the building of the Northern Shipping Company. Return tickets are sold directly on board by the captain's assistants. The schedule is published on the website of the shipping company.

Only 10 kg of luggage can be carried on the ship for free. For each extra kilogram you will have to pay 12 rubles.

By air. You can get to Solovki from Arkhangelsk in 50 minutes. Planes fly from two airports: Talagi and Vaskovo.

If you fly from Moscow or St. Petersburg, you can make a connection at the Talagi airport. A one-way ticket to Arkhangelsk costs 3000 R, to Solovki - 6955 R. Pensioners will get a 25% discount, children under 12 years old - 50%.

6955 R

minimum price of a plane ticket Arkhangelsk - Solovki

The schedule can be viewed on the Nordavia website. It is published annually before the start of the season. In 2018, the aircraft flew to the island on Mondays and Fridays from April to October. From June to September there were additional flights on Wednesday and Sunday.

What to see

Solovetsky Monastery- the main attraction of the island. A three-hour walk with a guide and 15-30 tourists will cost 500 R.

On the tour you can learn the history of the island, climb into the fortress, go down to the monastery prison, look at the mill built by the monks. It seemed to me that this excursion was enough to get acquainted with the island.

boulder dam is a stone bridge built by monks in the 19th century. It connects the Bolshoi Solovetsky and Bolshaya Muksalma islands. The length of the dam is 1.2 km. Now it is collapsing: stones fall out of the masonry.

The building monks most likely did not think about any artistic expressiveness of the dam, and that is why this is one of the most picturesque places where I have ever been. The masonry of a pile of stones of different sizes fits perfectly into the local landscape and seems to be a creation of nature, not man. I was lucky to see the dam in good weather - it felt like I was on the edge of the earth.

The route from the village of Solovetsky to the dam and the island of Bolshaya Muksalma lies through the forest. It's 20 kilometers round trip, so it's best to rent a bike. If it rained the day before, there can be a lot of mud, huge puddles and swamps along the way. It is better to wear waterproof shoes. I was wearing trekking boots and my feet were dry.

You can take a bag for berries and mushrooms with you. There are a lot of white and chanterelles on Solovki - the locals even ignore the volushki and russula. Berries in season are also in abundance: blueberries literally crumble from the branches.

If you are not ready to pedal for a long time, you can get to Bolshaya Muksalma by sea from the pier in Dolgaya Guba. The boat will cost 1500 R, guide services - another 350 R.

Anzer Island- the most secluded and the second largest after the Great Solovetsky. I came here for the harsh northern climate, Holy Trinity Skete and untouched nature. There is not even asphalt here: the roads are covered with logs or narrow paths are laid.

The tour of the island will take the whole day. Due to the complexity of the route, children under 12 are not allowed on it. To get there, you have to go by sea for two and a half hours. Groups are formed in advance, so I recommend booking a place as soon as you find yourself in Solovki. This can be done at the tour desk of the museum-reserve.

The ticket costs 1600 R, the price includes a guide and transfer. You will have to think about lunch on your own: there will be a break during the tour, but you need to bring food with you. Even if there is not a cloud in the sky, it is worth taking a raincoat with you: there is no more capricious weather than on this island anywhere on Solovki.

Monks live in the sketes of the island, who have decided to devote themselves to solitary prayer and seclusion. To feed themselves, they are engaged in agriculture and crafts, but still regularly receive bags of food from the Solovetsky Monastery.

They have minimal contact with visitors, for example, when mooring boats. The monks do not even make comments to tourists personally, but write on the tablets: "Sisters, do not touch the gilding - it is erased."

On Anzer, tourists visit active sketes of a strict charter, so the requirements for clothing and behavior are strict. Women need to wear a long skirt and headscarf. Men must take off their hats, put on pants, long-sleeved sweaters. Tourists are also asked not to disturb the peace of the inhabitants of the sketes: do not take pictures of them or try to talk to them.

Cape Beluga- this is the place where white whales pass at a distance of several meters from land. It is located on the Bolshoi Solovetsky Island. For me, Cape Beluga was the most significant location on Solovki.

You can see whales only from June 15 to August 15 when the sea is calm. There are fewer belugas at the end of the season. You have to go at low tide. I advise you to check the schedule at the tour desk: low tide can be at eight in the morning and at seven in the evening.

We went to look at belugas on foot. The road to the cape goes through a dense forest. I tried to ride a bike, but halfway I gave up: riding over rocks and roots is very difficult. So I went back to the start of the trail and left it in the parking lot. At the exit from the forest, you will have to wade. You can go barefoot, but more comfortable - in high rubber boots.

We spent a little over an hour on the cape. First, a tourist boat appeared on the horizon, and then beluga whales swam to the shore. We were not able to see them properly and take good photographs: only their backs and occasional tails were visible. We imagined a meeting with whales in a different way and regretted that we did not take binoculars. But the feeling of meeting with white whales in their natural conditions still cannot be compared with a visit to a dolphinarium.

Tourists on the boat were more fortunate: they turned off the engine and drifted very close to the belugas. Therefore, I advise you to get to the cape by water. You can rent a boat for 1200-1500 R per person. From the dry dock, the harbor opposite the monastery, the cape can be reached in 20-25 minutes.

It takes forty minutes to walk around the entire garden. We thought the garden was big, so we went there on bicycles. It was a big mistake: they didn't even let us through the gates. There was no parking, so we just left our bikes at the fence. The village is small, and if the bike was lost, it would be easy to find it by the green bike rental tag that is attached to the seat.

There are many berries, fruit trees and flowers in the Makarievsky desert. Once upon a time, the monks even grew melons and watermelons in heated greenhouses. We tried currants, but it seems that it was impossible to do this.

On Sekirnaya mountain there is the Svyato-Voznesensky Skete - the former male punishment cell of the Solovetsky Special Purpose Camp (SLON). There is also a camp cemetery with mass graves of prisoners, and on the top of the mountain there is an observation deck from which you can see the Savvatiyeva desert and the White Sea.

I was terrified of the feeling that I was walking on bones. I went down to the cemetery, but could not stay there for more than five minutes. The history of the camp years on Solovki is complex and terrible - even the guides find it difficult to say where is the truth and where is fiction. In the conversations of local residents, this topic seems to be taboo.

Boat trip. There are about four hundred lakes on the Solovetsky Islands. Some of them can be viewed by boat: they are connected by canals that were laid back in the 16th century. They provided the monastery with drinking water, fed a mill, a hydroelectric power station and a sawmill.

You can go on a boat trip with a guide, but we rented a rowing boat for 300 R from a station two kilometers north of the monastery on Lake Middle Perth. So we were not limited in time and movement.

There are two routes along the lake-canal system: a large one, 11 km, and a small one, 6 km. For reference, on the banks along the canals, large white shields with arrows are installed. It takes three hours to ride a small circle, six hours for a large one, plus incredible endurance. We did not master it and went swimming.

Forest lakes warm up unevenly - the temperature is different everywhere. I advise you to stop at Bolshoye Karzino Lake: there is a pier and a mesmerizing view. Only for the sake of this place I am ready to return to Solovki. The small route ends in this lake. There you can rent boats and go to Svetloye Orlovo: this is one of the most transparent lakes on the island, although it is located in the thickets.

To the Big Zayatsky Island come to see the mysterious labyrinths. They are lined with stone and overgrown with grass and moss. Who and why folded them is unknown. I liked the version about fish traps: during low tides, the fish allegedly did not have time to find a way out of the labyrinths and remained in a trap, from where it was then collected by fishermen.

The island can only be visited with a guide and walking along a wooden path. The museum-reserve has set such a rule that visitors do not steal stones from the labyrinths, accidentally set fire to the wooden church and do not harm the vulnerable nature of the island. The soil layer here is only 0.5-2 cm, so the plants die quickly. Twenty years ago, deer trodden paths that are still clearly visible.

The island is guarded by a watchman, the caretaker of the monastery and, as the guide joked, the fox Pyotr Alekseevich. If you come on your own, you will not be kicked out or fined, but you will violate the rules of the museum-reserve.

A ticket for the tour costs 800 R. It must be booked in advance at the bureau near the monastery. The trip by boat takes half an hour, the tour will take two hours. There is a hiking trail around the island.

We managed to quickly see the labyrinths and the church, but I still did not have enough time. After the tour, there is no time for free walks, so I could not return to the places I liked that I did not have time to photograph.

Where to live

Hotels and guest houses. There are no more than ten hotels and guest houses in the village of Solovetsky - I advise you to book accommodation in advance. There are many tourists, and rooms up to 3700 R per night are sold out quickly.

The cheapest way to live is at the Peterburgskaya Hotel, which works like a hostel. For 450 R you can get a bed in an eight-bed room, for 800 R you can rent a double room. Shower, toilet and refrigerator are shared on the floor. Of the benefits - proximity to the Solovetsky Monastery.

450 R

is the cheapest room in the hotel "Peterburgskaya"

Rooms in guest houses cost from 800 R to 3700 R per person per night. They are quieter, more comfortable and have Wi-Fi. Shower and kitchen are also shared on the floor. Superior rooms and luxury rooms in hotels cost from 5,000 R to 14,000 R. The price includes buffet breakfast, bathroom and nice design.

We lived in the guest house "Pinagor" five minutes from the sea and the monastery. For two nights in a standard double room with a shared shower and kitchen, we paid 4800 R. The room was booked a month before the trip. Even then, Booking had no more than five offers in this price category.

The room had two beds, a double bed and a single bed, a table, chairs, a mirror, a shoe rack and a night light. Everything is neat and clean

In the description of the house on Booking, they promised Wi-Fi, but in reality there was none. We also had to run after the administrator to check us in, bring the missing towel, and then take the room. Of the benefits - silence, comfort and a cafe with Pomeranian cuisine nearby. For breakfast, you can buy homemade milk, and for dinner, eat fried cod, herring or navaga for 220-250 R.

Private sector. You can rent a bed, a room or a house from local residents. Announcements are on the site of the tourist information center. You can also just knock on the door of the locals: the owners will settle themselves or recommend who to contact. Locals say that some residents offer apartments for rent right on the pier, but I have not seen such. In general, renting a room or apartment from residents is cheaper than on Airbnb.

The cost depends on the conditions. For 500 R you can rent a bed and live in a house with the owner. 600-1000 R will cost a separate room with a shared kitchen and shower. For 1200-2500 R rent whole houses and apartments. But you should not wait for European-quality repair and underfloor heating: these are ordinary village houses.

Camping is located at the edge of the forest on the shore of Lake Bannoe. This is the outskirts of the village, ten minutes walk to the monastery. In other places, camping is prohibited: the entire territory of the archipelago is a nature reserve. We did not know about the ban and settled down where we liked. But we did not kindle a fire and did not throw garbage.

A place in a tent camp costs 300 R per day per person. There are tables, benches, fire pits and a dry closet on the territory of the camp. For 200 R you can take a summer shower, for 300 R you can rent a triple tent for a day, for 100 R you can get a sleeping bag and a tourist rug. Bath for 10 people costs 3000 R.

300 R

price of a night in a tent on Solovki

If you plan to live on Solovki in a tent, I advise you to prepare as for a campaign. For example, you should take a burner with a pot. It will come in handy if there is no dry firewood or a fire pit. The tent should be waterproof, and the sleeping bag should be suitable for temperatures down to -15 degrees. Even if you are lucky with the weather, it is always cool at night on Solovki. It is better to put up a tent near the stream, so as not to run to the store for water.

Products and cafes

Of the local goods on Solovki, only bread, seaweed and fish. One Solovetsky herring - six species. The rest of the products are delivered by sea in summer and by plane in winter. Therefore, in summer, prices in stores are one and a half to two times higher than on the mainland. For example, a liter of milk costs 90 R, a kilogram of bananas - 130 R, apples - 170 R. In winter it is even more expensive: a dozen eggs will cost 130 R, milk and a small jar of sour cream - 180 R.

The largest grocery store in the village of Solovetsky is located next to the museum exposition about the Gulag on Zaozernaya Street. In the morning, there is a queue at the checkout. There is also a Raipo kiosk on Severnaya Street, a private grocery store, Filippovsky Bakeries on Kovalev Street, and two monastery bakeries.

Cafes and restaurants open at 10:00-12:00 and open until 21:00-00:00. There are few of them on the island: we counted eight establishments. Their food is standard but tasty. A lunch of hot, snacks and dessert in a cafe will cost 500-600 R. The average bill without alcohol in restaurants is 1000-1200 R. Once we ordered Finnish beer, it was tasteless and cost 250 R per bottle. Here is what else we tried in local cafes and can advise:

baked herring - 120 R per 100 g;
fried cod - 240 R per 200 g;
fish dumplings - 300 R;
Solovetsky herring with potatoes - 260 R;
slightly salted salmon or cod - 290 R;
buckwheat or potatoes with porcini mushrooms - 160 R.

Solovetsky herring under a fur coat with kelp cost 240 R, fish soup from fresh White Sea cod - 180 R

A plate of cranberries with sugar cost us 120 R, a cheesecake with blueberries - 40 R, a teapot of tea with Solovetsky herbs - 180 R

The cheapest way to eat is in the monastery refectory. A set lunch or dinner of two courses and dessert will cost 200-250 R. The food is lean: even pilaf is cooked with mushrooms, not meat. But there are a lot of pastries: there are ten kinds of cupcakes alone. Even more choice in the monastery bakeries. Rybnik with cod and herring is most readily dismantled. Before excursions, we bought snacks on the road in bakeries.

They also offer inexpensive and delicious food in the former canteen of the Solovetsky district district - the Kayut-kompaniya cafe. Breakfast will cost 150-200 R, a two-course lunch - from 350 R.

On Solovki, you can collect mussels for free. To do this, you just need to roll up your pants to the knee and walk along the coastline with a bag. In a cafe, 300 g of fresh mussels cost 450 R. Photo: Tatyana Maksimova

Transport

A bicycle is a popular transport in Solovki. There are rental points at the hotels, but the largest selection and reasonable prices are in the "Central" opposite the Philippovskaya Chapel.

Rent costs from 120 to 250 R per hour. It is more profitable to rent for 10 hours or for a day: the administrator makes a generous discount. For 10 hours of riding a mountain bike I paid 1000 R, while an hour of its rental costs 200 R.

1000 R

I paid for 10 hours of bike rental

The choice of models is large: urban, mountain and children's. You can also rent a child seat for 50 R per hour, rubber boots and a bowler hat for 200 R per day. Backpacks, a repair kit and even gloves are provided free of charge with the bike.

In two days we drove over 80 km over rocks, sand, puddles and mud. The bikes never failed, but the brakes squeaked every time they got wet.

There are several cars on the island that are privately owned or owned by hotels. They can be ordered. For example, it costs 150 R to get from Tamarino pier to the Solovetskaya Sloboda hotel. We did not use them: the island is small and we wanted to explore it completely, without missing anything.

For boat trips, fishing or crossing from the mainland to Solovki, you can rent a boat or a speedboat for 6-15 people. The rental price depends on the distance of the trip and fluctuates from 2000 to 15 000 R. Phone numbers can be found on the website of the tourist center.

What to bring

Warm clothes. A set of thermal underwear, a storm jacket and a hat will be needed for boat trips, a sweater or fleece jacket for hiking in the forest.

Raincoat. It often rains from June to September. Exploring the island on a bicycle under an umbrella or making your way through wet thickets is not very comfortable.

Trekking boots. On the islands, we walked a lot on sand, rocks and puddles. For walks through the forest and rocky shore, such shoes are more suitable than sneakers.

Trekking boots have a dense sole, a waterproof coating and a reinforced toe. I bought mine at Decathlon for 2699 R

Remedies for seasickness. On a boat and a ship, it sways even in calm weather. When the sea breaks out a little, every wave is felt.

Simcard MTS or Megafon. Other operators on Solovki do not work, and Wi-Fi is a rarity. I took three sim cards with me. "Beeline" did not catch the network, "Megafon" was only enough for calls with breaks, and MTS allowed you to send photos, chat in instant messengers and even make video calls. "Tele2" and "Iota" I did not test.

Cash. The island has terminals for paying taxes, transfers and replenishing a mobile phone account. There are no ATMs - money can only be withdrawn at a Sberbank branch. There is only one cashier and there is almost always a queue. Cards are almost not accepted anywhere: I managed to pay only at the pharmacy and the Solovetskaya Sloboda restaurant. Therefore, it is better to take cash with you.

Compass useful for walking through the forest if the phone runs out of power and the paper map gets wet.

Expenses

In late August - early September 2018, we spent 15,500 R per person in Solovki for six days. A tour with the same program costs from 32,000 R. Another 6555 R I spent on the road from Moscow to Kem and back.

32 000 R

worth a tour to the Solovki. We went on our own and spent 15,500 R

We took breakfasts and snacks with us, dined cheaply in the monastery refectory, and went to restaurants and cafes only for dinner. We managed to save on housing, because we lived in a tent for three days.

Remember

The "holiday" season on Solovki lasts from mid-June to mid-August. But even at this time, warm clothes are useful.
I recommend taking cash. You can pay by card only in some cafes and pharmacies. You can withdraw money at the Sberbank branch, but there are huge queues.
If you want to be in touch, it is better to take MTS or Megafon SIM cards with you.
On the island you can stay in guest houses, hotels or hotels. Options for a budget tourist - a room in the private sector or a place in a campground.
Book your accommodation and boat tickets at least a month before your trip. Places are massively bought by tour operators.
Take breakfast and snacks with you. On the island, food is 1.2-2 times more expensive, and cafes open late.
Spare batteries for the camera or an external battery for the phone will come in handy on the island. Otherwise, it would be a shame not to capture something incredible like playing beluga whales.
If the temperature rises above 15 degrees, it is worth preparing repellents and wearing a hat with a mosquito net. Mosquitoes and midges are ruthless.

Thanks to the Solovetsky Museum-Reserve, Pavel Mokhort, Alexey Pudov and Andrey Gulyaev for answering questions during the preparation of the article.

Meeting with the attendant at the railway station, transfer to the pier, departure by boat along the White Sea to the Solovetsky Islands. Meeting with the guide at the Solovki sea pier, transfer by bus to the hotel, accommodation, lunch. Sightseeing walking tour of the territory of the monastery "History and architecture of the Solovetsky Monastery" with a visit to the existing temples and monuments included in the "UNESCO World Heritage List". Excursion "Exile and imprisonment in Solovki" with a visit to the complex historical exposition of the Solovetsky State Museum-Reserve.

2 day:

Breakfast. Pedestrian and boat trip along the lakes and man-made canals of the Big Solovetsky Island, united at the beginning of the 20th century into a single hydraulic system. The hike is accompanied by a guide. Tourists are accommodated in rowing boats for 4-6 people. Bus excursion to the monastery skete on Sekirnaya Gora with the Church of the Ascension of the Lord, the highest lighthouse on the White Sea coast and a worship cross erected by Patriarch Alexy II. Excursion to the Makarievskaya Hermitage and the Botanical Garden "Khutor Gorka" - one of the northernmost botanical gardens in Russia. Return to the hotel. Late lunch.

3 day:

Breakfast. Free time. For additional fee - a trip on a boat along the unique inland sea of Solovki to the third largest island of the archipelago - Bolshaya Muksalma. A boat trip in the labyrinth of the islands of the Long Bay will not leave anyone indifferent. Ahead is the famous boulder dam - a hydraulic structure, which has no equal in the world. Stone fields, surpassing in their harmony the famous Japanese rock gardens; starfish lying underfoot; Muksalom reef showing its rare teeth from the sea and, of course, interesting stories about everything connected with this island. Lunch with dry rations by the fire on the seashore. After examining the Solovetsky miracle - a bridge-dam across the Iron Gates - a walk to the Sergiev-Radonezh Skete, which was one of the departments of the Solovetsky Special Purpose Camp (SLON).

Day 4:

Breakfast. Free time. For additional fee - an expedition on a boat to the Kuzov archipelago, with a landing on the highest island - German Kuzov. Walking along the rocks rising from the sea - outcrops of the bedrocks of the earth's crust. Ascent to the highest point of the White Sea. Looking at the chains of the White Sea islands, you will comprehend the boundlessness of yourself and the world, and ... you will not want to leave this place. You will follow the path of the mysterious Sami - the aborigines of the North, you will see a sanctuary with stone seids and the site of an ancient man. Dry lunch.

Day 5:

Breakfast. Free time. For additional fee - 3-hour sea excursion to the Big Zayatsky Island. Visiting Russia's first stone harbor of the 16th century, St. Andrew's Church, built in 1702 by Peter the Great, and ancient stone labyrinths of the 3rd-2nd millennium BC, including the world's largest labyrinth. Dinner.

Day 6:

Breakfast. For additional fee trip to the island of Anzer - 3-hour sea passage to one of the most mysterious islands of the Solovetsky archipelago. Along the way, you will learn why the Solovetsky Monastery stands on this very spot, and what was the first railway in Russia to “nowhere”. The labyrinth of the islands of the Long Bay will amaze you with a variety of vegetation and a riot of colors, and the skete, standing on the top of Mount Golgotha, will serve as a guide in the journey. A visit to the Gologogo-Crucifixion skete will give answers to the questions why Eliazar of Anzersky is called “the last saint of the Russian Church”, where the church schism originated from, how the prophecy about Golgotha came true and how many prisoners can be placed in the Church of the Resurrection of the Lord. Picnic lunch. After a picnic on the shores of Kaporskaya Bay, an easy 20-minute walk through three climatic zones to the mysterious ancient labyrinths, where you, the sea, birds and seals will be.

Briefly about Solovki

"Two dozen wooden barracks, braided with barbed wire. - Kemsky Transit Point." (Youth and G.P.U. Life and struggle of Soviet youth. Finland. 1937.)

From Kem to Solovki. Short and pleasant route for those who are not in a hurry

"Well, I'll start slowly, or something. So, we went to the Solovki with a LJ-company. Together with Anzhelka, I rolled up from New York itself, and on the island, Tonya and two Zhenyas, who arrived a little earlier from Moscow, were already waiting for us. I am very I have been waiting for this trip for a long time - for three whole years, since I was on Solovki for the last time ...

Expectation

We arrived in Kem on September 4 in the afternoon, immediately got on a hitch and drove in the direction of Rabocheostrovsk. Along the road stretched a dull crowd of hard workers returning home from the lumber mill. On one of the houses I noticed an old banner from the times of the USSR: "Honor and glory to the work of a sawmiller." I didn't manage to take a picture. We landed at the pier, in view of the cape on which. I only found out later, already when I was returning from the islands, and immediately, of course, I photographed her. And on this day, he did not shoot. This is what the Kemsky coast looks like from the Rabocheostrovsky pier (photo above)

At the pier there was a boat "Fog" unfamiliar to me, and there was no one except us and two pilgrims. It turned out that the big "Vasily Kosyakov" had already left for Arkhangelsk, and now only this type of boat goes to the islands. Then I spotted the captain on the Fog. He said that in an hour a group of tourists that he was waiting for would arrive, then they would let us on board, but for now he ordered us to wait. What to do, we began to wait. The weather was northern, severe, it was drizzling, but we didn’t care, since the cherished goal was only four hours sailing along the White Sea.

But now the hour promised by the captain has passed, and I began to get a little nervous. Then a local dog ran up to me and told me not to worry, they say, until nightfall, we will still be on the islands. I was very impatient to set sail as soon as possible, and in order to distract myself, I looked around at the harsh horizon. ().

After an hour and a half, four minibuses rolled out to the pier, from which a crowd of hardened men fell out, accompanied by no less seasoned representatives of the weaker sex. It turned out that these were Belaz drivers with their girlfriends from Kondopoga. Here we and two pilgrims, somewhat tired from waiting, were finally launched onto the boat. The Belazovites immediately went down into the hold, the motor rumbled and Kemsk Volost remained behind the stern. It’s good that I didn’t have to spend the night in Rabocheostrovsk, like three years ago, and I managed to go to the islands on the day of arrival. On the other hand, in 2003, I caught a beautiful sunset here on the pier. "(Travel notes for the very leisurely. Report on a trip to Solovki in September 2006. Part 1. "Kem - Solovki". Chapter 1. "Kemska Volost". )

By sea to the islands

"As soon as we sailed, the Belazovites set the table in the hold - pulled them out of the bags. I ask them - are you guys on the islands for the first time? It turned out that yes, besides for one day. Well, I think, in a couple of hours you will "You run in on board. The weather is harsh, it shakes. However, I was deceived in my expectations. They spent all 4 hours to the islands without any ensuing consequences. Someone passed out right on the bench, someone continued to sit and talk for life. In the hold I didn’t want to hang around, so I settled down in the stern, where there was a comfortable stool, and so I sat there, occasionally sprinkled with spray and rain, periodically smoking:

Anzhelka kept me company for a while, but then the motion sickness pill acted like a sleeping pill on her, so that almost all the outboard beauties on the way to Solovki passed by her. Sometimes I went down into the hold out of curiosity, to check how the Belazovites were doing there. On one of the descents down, I caught the transition of the "conversation for life" to the stage when it already consisted almost of interjections alone.

I even memorized one fragment of the dialogue and then wrote it down. Two of the strongest fighters who had not yet left the "battlefield" were sitting opposite each other, occasionally throwing contemptuous glances at the "fallen on the battlefield". One of them said, turning to a friend: "No, well, you tell me, well, how do people drink?" The one who was asked the question waved his hands: "You tell me this ... You don't generalize for me here! I don't need this globally! Give me a specific example. Who drinks?" The answer came after a well-seasoned pause, followed by several "Mne-uh-uh", "Well-u-u-u", and consisted of one word: "I". I also noticed that instead of "simple" they say "simple". We, they say, are simple people - with an emphasis on the first syllable.

Somewhere halfway to Solovki, our "Fog" missed the "St. Nicholas" and "Pechak", on which I returned from the islands in 2002. According to tradition, all those on the deck of both ships waved their hands, Leaving the archipelago greeted the new arrivals.

Then I remembered how I sailed to Solovki for the first time, in 1999. At that time, I didn’t know anything about this place at all, including how much to swim there. After that time, I'm not scared anymore. Then Volodya Tupichko drove us in a tiny karbas, in whose house I then lived in 2002, and this year we also stayed with him. The ship had the only aft superstructure, where only Volodya himself was placed with the helm. There was a terrible cold wind, pitching, and after a couple of hours I already forgot where we sailed from and where we are sailing. It seemed that we were standing still, which was partly true - at that moment when the karbas was thrown up on a wave, the propeller was in the air and the ship got up. Half the deck was covered with a tarpaulin. It was warm under him, but he immediately began to feel sick, so everyone preferred fresh air.

It's good that someone had a bottle of Karelian Balsam. Everyone who was then on the karbas became so close during the trip that they lived the entire time they were on Solovki together, renting a couple of rooms in the Solovetsky Fire Department. No wonder that all subsequent transitions on boats of the "Pechak" and "Fog" type were perceived as a walk in the park. I am generally silent about Kosyakov." (Travel notes for the very leisurely. Report on a trip to Solovki in September 2006. Part 1. "Kem - Solovki". Chapter 2. "Paragla". As a manuscript. livejournal. New York, USA. 2006)

TOUR PROGRAM

1 day, Saturday

In the evening arrival by train to the city of Kem(No. 092, No. 016 "Moscow - Murmansk").
Meeting at the entrance to the railway station building from the side of the platform (tablet with the name of the tour "Solovki Archipelago").
Transfer to the tourist complex "Prichal" located in the village of Rabocheostrovsk on the coast of the White Sea (12 km from Kem). Accommodation.
ATTENTION! VERY IMPORTANT! Start date of the tour - the date of the meeting of tourists at the railway station in Kem. For example, if the tour starts on JUNE 29, then the meeting of tourists is either on June 29 in the evening upon the arrival of train No. 092 or already in the night from 29 to 30 June upon arrival of train No. 16.

2nd day, Sunday

Breakfast at the cafe.
08:00. Departure to the Solovetsky archipelago. Crossing by boat White Sea 2 hours.
10:00. Arrival, transfer to the Solovki-Hotel / Solovetskaya Sloboda, accommodation from 14:00 (check-out time).
11:00. Sightseeing walking tour of the Solovetsky Kremlin(duration 3 hours). During the tour you will see unique architectural ensemble of the Solovetsky Monastery, active temples and monuments, objects of economic activity of the monastery. You will learn about the history of the Solovetsky Monastery, which seems to mirror the history of Russia. All temples and monuments are included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.
14:30. Dinner.
Visit to the Solovetsky Maritime Museum. Here you will learn about the traditions of shipbuilding, which ensured the superiority of domestic ships in the waters of the Arctic Ocean, as well as about sea hunting and fishing, which were carried out by the inhabitants of the Solovetsky monastery and the inhabitants of the White Sea villages. The centerpiece of the exposition is historical reconstruction of Pomeranian shnyakova 12 m- a traditional fishing vessel on the White Sea.

Day 3, Monday

Breakfast.
Bus tour “Mount Sekirnaya. Holy Ascension Skete» + Botanical Garden(duration 3.5 hours).
You will visit one of the highest points of the Big Solovetsky Island - Mount Sekirnaya from the top of which offers an unforgettable view of the island and the White Sea. Get to know the history and monuments active Holy Ascension Skete, where at the time of the Solovetsky camp there was a punishment cell - a place for keeping and punishing prisoners.
Visit the northernmost botanical garden in Russia with inspection dachas of the archimandrite, Alexander Chapel and worship cross.
On request, for an additional fee, we offer:
- uh Excursion "Sights of the Big Zayatsky Island". Boat trip to Zayatsky Island (journey time 45 min). You will visit the largest pagan sanctuary II-I millennium BC, stone labyrinths, complex of cult and burial structures, Russia's first stone harbor, monuments Andrew's Skete.
Excursion cost: 900 rubles / adult, 850 rubles / student. Net price.

Day 4, Tuesday

Breakfast.
Walking tour “History of the Solovetsky Special Purpose Camp. 1923-1939"(duration 2.5 hours).
On this tour, visitors will learn about Solovetsky Special Purpose Camp, the stages of the development of the camp and its reorganization in 1937 into the Solovetsky Special Purpose Prison, and also learn about the fate of the prisoners. Will visit a new exposition about the camp and a monument to Solovki prisoners.
- boat trip along the lake-canal system of Solovki(duration 5-6 hours). You will pass through man-made canals connecting 5 lakes; learn about hydrotechnical monuments and structures of the Big Solovetsky Island. Boat management is independent, capacity is 4-5 people in the boat. Tourists walk the distance to the boat station and back (2.8 km from the tour desk). The tour is subject to favorable weather conditions.
Excursion cost: 650 rubles/adult, 550 rubles/schoolchild. Net price.

Day 5, Wednesday

Breakfast. After breakfast - check out of the hotel rooms (no later than 12:00). Things are handed over to the storage room.
Free day. It is possible to order additional excursions.
On request, for an additional fee, we offer:
- Excursion "Kuzova Archipelago - the world of ancient man"(duration 7 hours).
Travel on body archipelago includes sea trip on a boat, landing on a deserted island (one of the islands of the Kuzov archipelago), climbing the highest rock of the White Sea, visiting ancient Sami sanctuary with stone sei. During the tour, tourists will discover the world of ancient man, his way of life, culture, worldview, and psychology. During the tour, it is planned to climb a rock 126 meters high (the ascent is gentle, the ascent time is 20 minutes).
The length of the walking route: 4 kilometers.
What you need with you: repellent, a raincoat, a warm jacket for a sea crossing, a windbreaker, sneakers or hiking boots, a camera. Contraindicated in seasickness, fear of heights (acrophobia), hypertension, heart disease, diseases of the knee joints.
Excursion cost: 2,500 rubles/adult, 2,000 rubles/child (6-14 years old).
Transfer from the hotel to the pier by 18:30.
19.00. Departure from Solovki back to the mainland.
21.00. Arrival on the mainland.
Departure of tourists by night trains on the day of return from Solovki.
Transfer to the railway station will be organized free of charge immediately after the arrival of the ship at the pier.

For an additional fee it is possible:

Accommodation in the tourist complex "Prichal" after returning from Solovki. Overnight. Additional cost nights see below.
The next morning, breakfast and transfer to the railway station in Kem.
APPLICATION AND PAYMENT OF ADDITIONAL NIGHTS REQUIRED WHEN BOOKING THE TOUR!

THE COST OF THE TOUR INCLUDES:

accommodation in rooms of the selected category (1 night in Kem, 3 nights in Solovki);
meals according to the program (4 breakfasts, 1 lunch);
5 excursions on Solovki (overview of the Solovetsky Kremlin, the Maritime Museum, Mount Sekirnaya, the Svyato-Voznesensky Skete, the Botanical Garden, the History of the Gulag);
transport services (crossing the White Sea "Kem-Solovki-Kem", bus transfers);
work of the guide-accompanying on the program.

ADDITIONALLY PAYABLE:

excursion to Zayatsky Island (optional);
boat trip along the lake-canal system of Solovki (optional);
excursion to the Kuzova archipelago (optional);
meals not included in the tour price;
travel to the city of Kem at the beginning of the tour and from the city of Kem after the end of the tour.
Extra charge for overnight in Kem after returning from Solovki(optional, net price). Included accommodation in the tourist complex "Prichal" 1 night + breakfast (transfer to the railway station in Kem is included in the tour price):
- 1,500 rubles/person - a place in a double room;
- 2 750 rubles per person –1-local accommodation;
- 1 400 rubles/person - for additional place.

SUPPLEMENT FOR FOREIGN CITIZENS in the Russian group - 500 rubles per person. (net).

Insurance is not included in the tour price. On the territory of the Russian Federation there is a compulsory medical insurance policy.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION:

All tours start and end at the tour desk. Tourists walk the distance from the hotel to the tour desk and back!
For groups of less than 15 people for walking tours and less than 20 people for bus / boat excursions, the museum has the right to add tourists to maintain the standard cost.
Water excursions are held only under favorable weather conditions and in the absence of a storm warning.

Tour duration 5 days / 4 nights. The duration of the hotel stay for this tour is 4 days.

ATTENTION!

Please provide the necessary information upon the arrival of tourists at the starting point of the tour after purchasing tickets:

Train number, arrival time, mobile phone of tourists for emergency communication.
Please send information to

First day

Excursion to the sights of the Big Zayatsky Island (conducted for an additional fee, for a group of 25 people, the cost is 700 rubles per person). You will have a boat trip to the Big Zayatsky Island. You will visit the first stone harbor in Russia, learn the history of the Andreevsky Skete, see stone labyrinths, religious and burial structures of the 2nd - 1st centuries BC.
Dinner (on your own)

Second day

Breakfast, check out.
Excursion to the Sekirnaya mountain
Excursion Botanical Garden - Makaryevskaya Hermitage (conducted for an additional fee for a group of 20 people, cost - 350 rubles per person). Makaryevskaya Hermitage, or Makaryevo, was founded in a very picturesque place, among lakes and forested hills. Away from the sea, a sharp wind subsides here, and an amazing view of the Big Solovetsky Island, the towers and domes of the monastery opens from the hills. You will visit one of the northernmost botanical gardens in Russia, see a unique collection of various plants that have been carefully collected over two centuries.

Recommended arrival days: Monday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday

3 days on Solovki

First day

Departure of the ship from the village of Rabocheostrovsk (Kem) to Solovki. Meeting at the pier Solovki, transfer to the hotel.
Lunch (on your own)
Sightseeing tour of the Solovetsky Monastery. A walking tour introduces the history of the Solovetsky Monastery. During the tour you will visit the existing temples, the fortress wall gallery, monuments included in the UNESCO World Heritage List: the Transfiguration Cathedral, the Assumption Cathedral, the Church of the Annunciation, stone chambers, a water mill and a bell tower.
Dinner (on your own)

Second day

Breakfast
Free time. Our guides will conduct additional excursions of your choice:
Excursion to Sekirnaya Gora (conducted for an additional fee for a group of 20 people, cost - 400 rubles per person). You will visit one of the highest points of the Bolshoy Solovetsky Island - Sekirnaya Hill, from the top of which offers an unforgettable view of the White Sea. Get acquainted with the history of the active Svyato-Voznesensky skete, where during the time of the Solovetsky camp there was a punishment cell - a place for keeping and punishing prisoners. See the unique lighthouse church.
Excursion "Botanical Garden - Makaryevskaya Hermitage".
Dinner (on your own)

The third day

Breakfast, check out
Lunch (individual)
Excursion to Sekirnaya Gora (for an additional fee for a group of 20 people, cost - 400 rubles per person) You will visit one of the highest points of the Big Solovetsky Island - Sekirnaya Gora, from the top of which offers an unforgettable view of the White Sea. Get acquainted with the history of the active Svyato-Voznesensky skete, where during the time of the Solovetsky camp there was a punishment cell - a place for keeping and punishing prisoners. See the unique lighthouse church.
Transfer to the pier. Departure to Kem (Belomorsk).

Recommended days of arrivals: Monday-Wednesday, Wednesday-Friday, Friday-Sunday.

4 days on Solovki

First day

Departure of the ship from the village of Rabocheostrovsk (Kem) to Solovki. Meeting at the pier Solovki, transfer to the hotel.
Lunch (on your own)
Sightseeing tour of the Solovetsky Monastery. A walking tour introduces the history of the Solovetsky Monastery. During the tour you will visit the existing temples, the fortress wall gallery, monuments included in the UNESCO World Heritage List: the Transfiguration Cathedral, the Assumption Cathedral, the Church of the Annunciation, stone chambers, a water mill and a bell tower.
Dinner (on your own)

Second day

Breakfast
Free time. Our guides will conduct additional excursions of your choice:
Excursion to Sekirnaya Gora (conducted for an additional fee for a group of 20 people, cost - 400 rubles per person). You will visit one of the highest points of the Bolshoy Solovetsky Island - Sekirnaya Hill, from the top of which offers an unforgettable view of the White Sea. Get acquainted with the history of the active Svyato-Voznesensky skete, where during the time of the Solovetsky camp there was a punishment cell - a place for keeping and punishing prisoners. See the unique lighthouse church.
Excursion "Botanical Garden - Makaryevskaya Pustyn" (conducted for an additional fee for a group of 20 people, cost - 350 rubles per person) Makaryevskaya Pustyn, or Makaryevo, was founded in a very picturesque place, among lakes and hills covered with forest. Away from the sea, a sharp wind subsides here, and an amazing view of the Big Solovetsky Island, the towers and domes of the monastery opens from the hills. You will visit one of the northernmost botanical gardens in Russia, see a unique collection of various plants that have been carefully collected over two centuries.
Dinner (on your own)

The third day

Breakfast
Free time. Our guides will conduct optional excursions of your choice.
Excursion to the Sekirnaya mountain
Visit to the Solovetsky Maritime Museum (on your own)
Dinner (on your own)

Fourth day

Breakfast, check-out from the hotel.
Lunch (on your own)
Transfer to the pier. Departure to Kem (Belomorsk)

5 days on Solovki

First day

Departure of the ship from the village of Rabocheostrovsk (Kem) to Solovki. Meeting at the pier Solovki, transfer to the hotel.
Lunch (on your own)
Sightseeing tour of the Solovetsky Monastery. A walking tour introduces the history of the Solovetsky Monastery. During the tour you will visit the existing temples, the fortress wall gallery, monuments included in the UNESCO World Heritage List: the Transfiguration Cathedral, the Assumption Cathedral, the Church of the Annunciation, stone chambers, a water mill and a bell tower.
Dinner (on your own)

Second day

Breakfast
Free time. Our guides will conduct additional excursions of your choice:
Excursion to Sekirnaya Gora (conducted for an additional fee for a group of 20 people, cost - 400 rubles per person). You will visit one of the highest points of the Bolshoy Solovetsky Island - Sekirnaya Hill, from the top of which offers an unforgettable view of the White Sea. Get acquainted with the history of the active Svyato-Voznesensky skete, where during the time of the Solovetsky camp there was a punishment cell - a place for keeping and punishing prisoners. See the unique lighthouse church.
Excursion "Botanical Garden - Makaryevskaya Pustyn" (conducted for an additional fee for a group of 20 people, cost - 350 rubles per person) Makaryevskaya Pustyn, or Makaryevo, was founded in a very picturesque place, among lakes and hills covered with forest. Away from the sea, a sharp wind subsides here, and an amazing view of the Big Solovetsky Island, the towers and domes of the monastery opens from the hills. You will visit one of the northernmost botanical gardens in Russia, see a unique collection of various plants that have been carefully collected over two centuries.
Dinner (on your own)

The third day

Breakfast
Excursion to Sekirnaya Gora (for an additional fee for a group of 20 people, cost - 400 rubles per person) You will visit one of the highest points of the Big Solovetsky Island - Sekirnaya Gora, from the top of which an unforgettable view of the White Sea opens. Get acquainted with the history of the active Svyato-Voznesensky skete, where during the time of the Solovetsky camp there was a punishment cell - a place for keeping and punishing prisoners. See the unique lighthouse church.
Visit to the Solovetsky Maritime Museum (on your own).
Dinner (on your own)

Fourth day

Breakfast
Excursion "To the strict hermitages of Anzer Island" (conducted for an additional fee for a group of 20 people, cost - 400 rubles per person) You will visit the second largest island of the Solovetsky archipelago, where in the XVII - XVIII centuries. strict prayer sketes were organized - Holy Trinity and Calvary-Crucifixion, you will see the diverse natural landscapes of the island, visit the active sketes, learn the history of the monastery, camp and modern periods of the island. The length of the walking tour is 12 km, all the necessary things, including food, must be taken with you. The tour is conducted with the blessing of the abbot of the monastery, tourists are required to comply with the rules of the skete and be properly dressed.
Dinner (on your own)

Fifth day

Breakfast, check out from the hotel
Excursion "History of the Solovetsky camp" (conducted for an additional fee for a group of 20 people, cost - 400 rubles per person) You will learn about the tragic time in the history of the Solovetsky Islands - the period of the existence of the Solovetsky Special Purpose Camp. SLON was the largest forced labor camp of the 1920s, through which thousands of prisoners passed.
Lunch (on your own)
Transfer to the pier. Departure to Kem (Belomorsk).

8 days on Solovki

First - eighth days

The program is identical to "5 days on Solovki", with additional accommodation and meals. Additionally, it is possible to visit the excursions: "Solovki fortress", "Lakes and canals of Solovki", "History of the Solovetsky jung school", "Sea excursion to Kuzova", etc. (for a fee).