Do-it-yourself speargun. Speargun: types and models, how to choose the right one Do-it-yourself spring gun

Spearfishing is a song and excitement! At the same time, it does not need to have permits, register a spear gun and have other troubles. Spearfishing is equivalent to fishing with a fishing rod.

Of the equipment for spearfishing, you only need a mask, fins and a speargun. The latter is the most expensive in spearfishing equipment.

And it is with my own hands that I propose to make an underwater gun.

Some of the details of such a gun will need to be turned on the machine, but you can always negotiate with the turner and pay with fish from your catch. So you can make a spear gun with your own hands almost for free!

Increasing the power and sharpness of the battle in this design of the spear gun is achieved by increasing the working stroke of the rubber bands. For this purpose, rollers are installed at the end of the gun, through which the cords are thrown, and the cords themselves are located under the gun.

This arrangement has a number of significant advantages over the usual "rubber" gun. First, the power gain is achieved here without lengthening the gun. Equally important is the fact that the simplest serial gun with rubber bands, which is modernized according to the given drawing, can be taken as a basis. Calculations and practice of spearfishing have shown that the working stroke of the cords (depending on the coefficient of elasticity of the rubber used) increases by 30-70%. This greatly increases the accuracy of the battle. The gun is also very easy to handle - after the shot, the rubber bands do not hang freely, as it happens in conventional guns, and do not interfere with manipulations with fish and harpoon line.

When self-made, the barrel is made of a duralumin (D16T) tube with a wall thickness of 1.0-1.5 mm. The handle and trigger mechanism can be taken from any serial "rubber" gun. The length of the gun is selected depending on the physical data of the athlete. Its maximum value should be such that, resting the handle of the gun on the stomach, you can reach the tips of the rubber bands (detail D).

The general arrangement of the gun is clear from the figure. Parts A, B, C, G are made of D16T duralumin. The guide sleeve is made of stainless steel. When assembling the gun between the shank of the harpoon and the sleeve, put on the harpoon a rigid spiral spring with an inner diameter equal to the diameter of the harpoon. This spring (5-6 turns is enough) serves as a shock absorber, which prevents damage to the rear end of the sleeve from impacts on the shank.
A reliable and practically no additional resistance shank is made as follows. Stepping back 5-6 mm from the rear end of the harpoon, drill a hole D 4 mm, perpendicular to the axis of the harpoon (see Fig.). Then bore this hole with a needle file to an oval and press into it an oval hard steel rod previously turned into a very gentle cone. After that, the rod must be cut off, leaving protrusions on both sides of the harpoon equal in height to the wall thickness of the guide bushing.

For the manufacture of the bow connecting the tips of the rubber bands, a steel spring wire D 4-5 mm is used. The ends of a segment of such a wire of the required length are annealed and bent into rings. Before bending the second ring onto the wire, both caps of the tips must be put on. After that, the wire in the place of its adhesion to the harpoon is moistened, giving it an oval shape for better entry into the cutout on the harpoon.

The fastening of rubber bands (especially solid ones) still causes difficulties; Here we propose a fastening method that has been tested for many years and has proved itself even under the condition of the maximum stretching of rubbers. To securely fasten the ends of the rubbers, the holes in the tips must have a profile shown in fig. The minimum passage diameter must be equal to the diameter of the rubber in the maximum stretched state (in this case 8 mm).

At the end of the rubber, a loop-stranglehold is thrown from a strong nylon cord, which is first threaded into the tip and tightened strongly (see Fig.). Having stretched the rubber as much as possible, cut off its excess protruding from the tightened loop. Then, without reducing the tension, moisten the end of the rubber and 2-3 cm of the cord behind the loop with a thick soapy solution. Moving the tip along the cord, a loop is pulled into it along with a cord.

To fix the tip, a strip of rubber 4-5 mm wide, cut from an elastic medical bandage, is wound on a stretched cord. The winding is done with the ultimate tension of the strip and should have the form of a roller with a cone similar in shape to the profile of the hole in the tip (see). To fix the end of the rubber strip, the last 3-4 turns should be wound on the flat part of the cone. After that, without reducing the tension of the cord itself and the winding tape, the tip is shifted onto the roller. In the same way, the opposite ends of the strands are fixed in part A.

The rollers for the muzzle assembly are machined on a lathe from D16T duralumin. For better sliding on the axle, bronze bushings should be pressed into them. The axis for the rollers must be made of stainless steel. To prevent the rollers from jumping off, holes for cotter pins are drilled at the ends of the axle. The inner diameter of the groove of the rollers is selected based on the thickness of the rubber bands and the center distance of the barrel and the harpoon inserted into the gun. In any case, it is necessary to strive to ensure that the axes of the harpoon and both strands on a loaded gun are in the same plane.

As a material for the harpoon, it is best to use elastic grades of stainless steel (rod D 7 mm). If ordinary steel is used, then the harpoon must be chrome-plated or nickel-plated, since even a slight coating of oxides significantly reduces the sharpness of the gun battle. The harpoon line (fishing line D 0.8 mm) is attached to the earring on the guide sleeve and to the protruding eye in the front of the muzzle.

The rubber tension can be adjusted by moving along the shaft of the lower fastening of the cords (detail A). The position of part B should be such that after the shot the strands do not jump off the rollers.

With a charging force of 30 kg, the lethal distance with a single tip is 5.5 m. The free flight of the harpoon under water is 7 m.

Source: book - "Spearfishing. / Handbook" author Khorhordin E. G. "Publishing House of the Ruchenkins", 2001. - 320 p. use for storing keys and spare parts. But it’s better to put a bottle of vodka in such a glove compartment of a snowmobile made by yourself. In case you break the chain. Without vodka it's hard in the cold, but you can live with vodka.

VLADISLAV comments:

ORIGINAL SOLUTION.

Sanya comments:

Can you elaborate on the schematics?

The big boss comments:

I think it's interesting not only for me

Star comments:

Sasha comments:

I'll do this and go whale hunting

Alexander comments:

Where to get rubber and a locksmith? How can I make this gun shorter? The problem with the weight of the arrow, how to get the trident...

Alexander comments:

And how to get a bigger drawing, otherwise it’s difficult to figure it out.

Alexander comments:

E-mail; [email protected]

Igor comments:

When the axis rotates in a bronze bushing
when the cords move, a sound may occur that will scare away the fish.

Nowadays, rest is an expensive pleasure, even if you decide to just go fishing, fishing rods and tackle will cost you a tidy sum, let alone a scuba diving gun.

Therefore, today we will talk about how to save your money and make a do-it-yourself speargun. The design that we will present to you is quite simple, has a light weight and a fairly large impact force.

1 - harpoon, 2 - bushing, 3 - M3 screw, 4 - barrel, 5 - piston, 6 - mainspring, 7 - clip, 8 - bushing, 9 - M3 screw, 10 - hook, 11 - insert, 12 - spring fuse, 13 - sear spring, 14 - sear, 15 - fuse, 16 - trigger, 17 - line winding rod axis, 18 - handle, 19 - line winding rod.

Consider the main details and manufacturing steps:
1. Let's start with the trunk, because. it houses the main mechanism. The gun barrel is a pipe with a diameter of 12 mm and a wall thickness of 1 mm made of brass or stainless steel, over the entire surface of which, for the free passage of water when firing and charging, we drill holes with a diameter of 4-5 mm in increments of approximately 10 mm.
2. At the ends of the pipe we place bushings from pieces of pipe Ø10 mm with a wall thickness of 2.5 mm, which we fasten to screws (2 per bushing) M3. First, we put the first sleeve - an emphasis for the mainspring.
3. We wind the spring itself from OBC wire f1.6 mm onto a rod f6 mm coil to coil, and then stretch it, getting a step of 4.5 mm. Then, in order to remove residual deformation, we perform low-temperature tempering by heating the mainspring to a temperature of about 300 degrees. This can be done with a can of gas and a burner attachment or, in extreme cases, can be heated in an oven. The end turns, after heating, are bent perpendicular to the axis.
4. The piston is made of stainless steel or duralumin.

Click on the picture to enlarge

5. We make a harpoon from a steel bar Ø 5 mm, cut it into threads at one end and drill a hole for the line. Then the harpoon is hardened. The harpoon is attached to the barrel with a second guide sleeve.
6. We cut out a hook from brass or stainless steel to wind the line from the harpoon, and solder it to the end of the barrel.
7. We cut out the clip for the barrel from a millimeter sheet of steel or brass. We cut holes on the side surfaces and solder the slot to the trunk.
8. To fasten flat return springs to the cage, we use a textolite insert, which we fasten to the cage with rivets or nails, and we rivet the springs themselves to the insert.
9. To fix the fuse in two working positions, we put the fuse springs made of steel tape 65G or U10A 0.5 mm thick. We fix the springs to the cage with screws or rivets.
10. To wind the line, we use a rod made of steel wire f2 mm, one end of which is bent into a ring. With the help of this hook, we attach the traction to the trigger.

Let's continue the topic of homemade weapons. This time we present to your attention an overview of the video on the manufacture of a powerful spear gun.

So, we need:
- wooden block;
- a piece of polypropylene pipe;
- martens bandage;
- three medium nails;
- a thread;
- glue gun;
- screw;
- vice;
- sandpaper;
- hacksaw for metal;
- file;
- electrical tape.

Martens bandage can be purchased at any pharmacy. The people also call it a medical tourniquet, but this name is incorrect. Let's get started.

First you need to make the harpoon itself. To do this, take the nut and put it in a vise. According to the author of the idea, it is advisable to take a larger nut, since the harpoon will be thicker and more durable, but one should not overdo it so that the harpoon does not turn out too thick.

When the nut is clamped in a vice, insert the bar into the drill.

We begin to scroll the bar through the nut at medium speed, giving it a round shape.

In the same way, we process the resulting base for the harpoon with sandpaper.

Then we take three nails and saw off each hat with a hacksaw.

Now we take a file and sharpen that part of the nails from which the hats were sawn off. Then, with the same file, we sharpen the sharp parts of the nails so that they are sharper.

Next, take the electrical tape and wind it on the extreme part of the harpoon.

We attach one of the nails to the base of the harpoon with a thread. It should be noted here that the author of the homemade product recommends using a fishing thread, since it is stronger than ordinary threads.

After one nail is wound with a thread, we insert a piece of wood between the nail and the base so that the nail is at a slight angle.

We fix the nail with a small amount of glue from the glue gun so that it is secure. Similarly, we attach the remaining two nails to the structure.

To better fix the structure, you can wrap more tape over the nails. The harpoon is ready. Let's start manufacturing the main part for its launch.

Take a martens bandage and cut off a small piece.

The resulting piece must be attached to the polypropylene pipe on both sides. To do this, pour glue from a glue gun on one side of the pipe and attach a piece of martens bandage. We do the same on the other side.

We clamp it well and wind one layer of electrical tape.

Then we wind the thread and on top another layer of electrical tape. Thus, the installation for launching the harpoon is almost ready.

This design of a homemade speargun not very difficult, easy and with good combat power. Numerous experiments and refinements gave the desired result.

The figure shows a section of a speargun for spearfishing.

Harpoon - from a steel bar Ø 5 mm ("silver"). An M5 thread is cut at one of its ends and a hole for the line is drilled. After machining, the harpoon is hardened. The bushing - the guide for the harpoon - is machined from stainless steel or duralumin.

The barrel of a speargun is a 12x1 mm pipe. Material - brass or stainless steel. For free passage of water when firing or charging, holes Ø 4-5 mm are drilled over the entire surface of the barrel in increments of about 10 mm. The piston is machined from stainless steel or duralumin.

By the way, both the bushings and the piston can be made from 10x2.5 mm tube sections, which completely eliminates turning work in the manufacture of a gun.

The mainspring is wound from OBC wire Ø 1.6 mm. Initially, a wire is wound onto a rod Ø 6 mm coil to coil, which is then stretched to obtain the required pitch - 4.5 mm. So that there are no residual deformations during the processing of the spring, the wire must be released, that is, heated to about 300 ° C and cooled to room temperature. The end coils, after red-hot, must be bent in such a way that their plane is perpendicular to the axis of the spring.

The speargun clip is cut from brass or stainless steel sheet 1 mm thick. It is advisable to cut holes on its side surfaces by inserting a plank of a suitable size after the workpiece is bent. This will avoid errors in the location of the holes on the right and left cheeks of the clip. When assembling, the clip is soldered to the barrel, focusing on the position of the slot.

The hook is intended for winding a harpoon line on it. It is sawn from brass or stainless steel and soldered to the end of the barrel.

Textolite insert, it is designed for fastening flat return springs. The liner is riveted to the cage, the springs are also riveted to the liner. It is desirable to use steel rivets, in extreme cases, you can use ordinary nails.

Fuse springs designed to fix the fuse in two stable positions. The material is a steel tape 0.5 mm thick grade 65G or U10A. It is most expedient to attach the springs to the cage with screws or rivets.

The pull for winding the line is a piece of steel wire 2 mm thick. One of its ends is bent into a ring, with which the rod is attached to the trigger.

Already when the reservoir began to slowly freeze, and the “future catch” began to spend more time at the bottom, many anglers in the holes are visited by a feeling of nostalgia, for the past moments of catching fish, for the feeling when you pull your trophy.

In winter, there is a lot of free time that can be spent usefully, for example, making a homemade speargun for spearfishing.

There are many models that you can do with your own hands, which will be characterized by accuracy and ease.

We make an underwater gun with our own hands

To carry out weapons for spearfishing at home, you must have several qualities:

• Perseverance:
• painstaking;
• Patience.

Such work will take a lot of time and effort, but the end result will give admiration and delight, especially in those moments when the very coveted trophy is obtained with the help of a gun made by oneself.

So, a speargun is a combination of several materials and rocks in one design:

• Wood for the base;
• Stainless material for escapement.

An average weapon that can be made at home will have a total length of no more than 900 mm, from the hook to the hole should be at least 75 mm, and the total weight is about 1.5 kg.

The handle of the gun will need to be treated with a special automotive sealant, sprinkled with sugar and dried thoroughly, then shake off the sugar and end up with a porous material.

You will also need to make a reliable stop, you can make it on the axis, then at the moment the harpoon is inactive, it will rest against it and will not mix, and when the harpoon is activated, it will be able to scroll.

Homemade speargun for spearfishing

With the proper implementation of all prescriptions and recommendations, it is possible to ensure that the speargun will be characterized by a sufficiently large force to hit a fish of medium size and light weight.

Most likely, the radius of destruction will be no more than 3 meters.

It is also worth knowing some of the negative aspects of homemade weapons for spearfishing:

• Significant level of noise when fired;
• Spring creak during loading.

In order to reduce the level, you need to systematically wipe the barrel of the weapon and the spring with a rag, which must be moistened with glycerin.

It is worth paying special attention to the rules and safety requirements:

• It is necessary to load the weapon only directly in the reservoir;
• When going ashore, it is mandatory to discharge.
• Shoot only if the water is clear and the target is clearly visible.

An important advantage of a hand-made weapon is its accuracy and lightness, which greatly helps to catch a clever predatory fish.

Any angler who tries himself as an underwater hunter needs to know that just shooting accurately is not everything, you need to not miss the fish from the harpoon.

Construction parts

Any design of underwater weapons consists of the following elements:

• Trunk;
• clip;
• Harpoon;
• Action spring;
• Liner;
• Hook;
• Fuse springs;
• Thrust.

The speargun barrel for spearfishing is a pipe with a diameter of 12 mm and a pipe thickness of 1 mm. Often, a material such as brass, which does not oxidize in water, is excellent for these purposes.

Stainless steel is also good.

In order to ensure unimpeded entry and exit of water, it is necessary to drill holes along the entire length of the trunk, with a diameter of at least 3 mm and an approximate distance between them of 10 mm.

The piston for the barrel is best chosen from duralumin or brass.

The pipe can be purchased in a larger size, the leftovers will be needed in order to make bushings and pistons.

This will completely dispense with turning operations in the manufacture of spearguns.

The clip, which is one of the main parts of the speargun, must be made of brass sheet metal, 1 mm thick.

It must have special holes, which must be made on the sides and it is best to cut them out after the workpiece is bent.

According to the selected technology, it is possible to achieve a clear arrangement of holes, without bevels and offsets on the right and left sides of the clip. When assembling the clip, you need to solder it to the barrel, you need to adjust the parts along the slots and holes.

The main active part of any weapon will be a harpoon, which is made of a durable steel bar with a diameter of at least 5 mm, at the main end of which a five-millimeter M5 thread is cut for installation and a hole for the line is sawn out.

After all the preparation work has been completed, it is imperative to harden the harpoon in a thermal furnace. In addition to everything, you will need to carve a sleeve for the harpoon, it is best to use stainless steel for this.

The mainspring for the weapon must be made of OBC wire, 1.6 mm in diameter and wound helically, so that the result is a pitch of 4.5 mm.

Before proceeding with the processing of the wire, it must be released, namely, heated to 300 degrees and cooled to room temperature.

Such operations will avoid deformation of the spring in the future. The ends of the rod, or already the springs, must be heated and bent so that they are perpendicular to the axis.

The liner in the gun is designed to secure the flat return springs and is mainly made of textolite.

It will need to be glued to the clip, and after that, glue the springs on it.

To assemble underwater weapons, you will need rivets, which are best chosen from strong, reliable steel.

In order to wind the harpoon line, you will need a special hook, which can be made of brass or stainless steel.

The hook must be soldered to the barrel.

Safety springs are mainly used as a stopper for two main positions.

Steel is best suited as a material, 0.5 mm thick from durable alloyed material 65 or carbon grade U8, U10, U10A. The spring is attached with rivets.

The pull for the line is nothing more than 2 mm steel wire. One of the ends of the rod is bent, forming a ring, with the help of which it will subsequently be attached to the trigger.

To date, pneumatic spearguns have received the greatest popularity among consumers. Although, it is worth noting that the principle of their manufacture includes several features.

It is precisely due to the fact that the design involves a rather complex manufacturing technology that some interested customers refuse this type of weapon for fishing.

In order to make a spring speargun for spearfishing with your own hands, you need to prepare some materials in advance:

• wire ОВС Ǿ 2 mm brand, it is best to choose spring steel 65G;
• duralumin tube with Ǿ12.5-13 mm, which will be used for the barrel;
• plates 2 pcs, 10-12 mm thick, made of vinyl plastic, from which the handle will later be made;
• rod Ǿ 6-8 mm, a material such as stainless steel for a harpoon would be ideal.

The technology for the phased production of an underwater gun is as follows:

1. All experts recommend starting the manufacturing process with the most complex element in the design, namely with a spring, which is best left to professionals for winding. Specialists, most likely, will wind the spring on a lathe in accordance with GOSTs, after which they will have to be fired in a thermal furnace and apply a special anti-corrosion coating. Professionals will not need to give recommendations, they will only tell you what step the finished product needs and its final length, which will correspond to the size of the barrel. The spring, already in the assembled product, will work in compression and therefore its length must necessarily be more than the barrel by about 300 mm, otherwise it will sit down or burst at the first shot.

   The essence of such a reserve is that at the moment of the shot, the value of the spring force at the very end of the barrel does not reduce to zero, but only to a minimum, which means that there is no premature shot of the harpoon. This effect is called the compressed spring effect.

2. The second step will be the implementation of the prepared material of the barrel for weapons. If it is not possible to buy a small aluminum tube, you can use an old ski pole. It is believed that the most optimal barrel length is 700 mm. Thus, it is possible to achieve the best and most convenient shooting, in any conditions, in any water bodies.
3. At the two ends of the tube, it is imperative to cut the thread and a special groove of 150 mm, which will be intended for the sear. After that, it is worth making holes so that the liquid that has entered the barrel can easily and quickly exit.
4. The gun must have a muzzle and a plug made of duralumin. In order to install a harpoon in the plug, you will need to make a special hole. After that, mono boldly begin the execution of the handle of the weapon and the trigger mechanism itself.
5. For the manufacture of the handle, textolite plates are perfect, which heal in a vise during execution and drill holes along the diameter of the barrel. Next, cut out the intended contour of the handle and cut out grooves 3 mm deep with a file to install the trigger.
6. Next, you need to drill a hole for the axis of the fuse, the sear and the spring itself, also do not forget about the fasteners, which will also require mounting holes.
7. Now combine the two finished halves of the handle in the barrel and secure with screws, this will subsequently exclude mixing along the length of the barrel. Before fastening, it is necessary to install a retaining ring. The assembly process itself will be completed after the trigger, springs, fuses and sear are installed. In general, there will be a simple locksmith work.
8. Now you can proceed to the harpoon, the best material for which would be stainless steel 6 mm thick. The harpoon must necessarily be with a tip sharpened in a special way, so that 4 edges are made under the body. Thus, the sharpened edges of the tip will instantly cut the fish scales and pierce them much easier.
9. Almost everything is ready, only the easy thrower remains, which is made of a steel strip and is fastened with screws to the barrel plug. At the time of the shot, the line will simply unwind without delay and effort, and when wound, it will be laid under the plate, in front of the barrel.
10. Everything is ready, the gun can be tested, start spearfishing. It is only necessary to fill the harpoon into the barrel of the weapon, so that it reaches the stop, then press the spring against the sear until a specific click is signaled.
11. Thus, the sear goes up into the barrel and is pressed against the sleeve, at the moment of descent, the spring performs translational actions, returning to its original position. The gun is now loaded and ready for its first prey.
12. When the angler pulls the trigger, the sear goes into the groove and makes room for the spring bushing. Thus, the spring unclenches and pushes the harpoon.

The benefits of making your own

The advantages of making an underwater gun with your own hands include:

• high level of accuracy;
• significant money savings;
• manufacturing does not require special knowledge and skills;
• comparatively quiet in operation.

But do not forget that there are also disadvantages:

• Hunting can be done only for medium and small fish, for large ones, the harpoon is not strong enough;
• The ability to change the tip of the harpoon is excluded.