Homemade toy submarine. RC Submarines for Kids and Adults RC Submarine with DIY Camera

Today, your attention is offered drawings of a homemade submarine. Such a submarine is made from ordinary plywood 3 mm thick and tin from cans.

During the Soviet Union, there were no toys in stores. But do-it-yourself kits were sold. Seemingly easy-to-make contour models of various ships, aircraft, boats and submarines not only develop the imagination when playing with such toys, but also allow you to gain initial design skills during assembly.

We propose to do the reconstruction of one of these sets - a home-made submarine on a rubber motor with your own hands.

To make a homemade submarine, you will need the following:

Plywood 3 mm size 210x55 mm
Lobizk (can be manual or electric)
Pliers
Tin from a tin can
Lead 5 grams (you can take a weight to balance the wheels)
Rubber band 400mm long
A pair of pins with ring heads (can be replaced with a cornice string)
Harsh or silk threads
Glue BF-2 or any other waterproof
Waterproof paint (nitro enamel, oil or acrylic from stationery)

Look at the drawings of the submarine.

Despite the simplicity of the design of a homemade submarine, work should be done in the following sequence:

The hull of the boat and the blades of the horizontal rudders are sawn out of plywood with a jigsaw. The contour of the boat is easy to transfer by scaling the drawing in a graphic editor and printing on paper, circle it in place on plywood or redraw it in squares (the square cell on plywood should be 10X10 mm).

The sawn body of a homemade submarine is cleaned with a file and sandpaper, it is necessary to remove burrs and smooth the edges.

The slots into which the blades of the horizontal rudders are glued also need to be processed. It is desirable to process the rudders by making the front part rounded and the back converging to the upper surface. This applies only to the parts protruding beyond the dimensions of the plywood body of the spoon.

Steering wheels are glued with the glue you have, follow the instructions! Usually the first layer of glue is simply dried, and the connection of the parts occurs after spreading the second layer of glue.

A propeller shaft passes through the aft part of the hull of the submarine model. The shaft is made from a pin with a ring-shaped head. A rubber motor thread is passed through this ring, and a propeller made of tin is soldered or glued to the opposite end of the pin with BF-2 glue.

The shaft hole is easiest to burn with a red-hot pin or thin wire. This should be done slowly, since the driving performance of the boat depends on the correct location of the hole. You can also use a screwdriver with a thin drill.

Since the aft part of the boat hull becomes less durable after burning the hole, it should be wrapped with bobbin threads and smeared with BF-2 glue.

After all this, the model can be painted with some bright paint that protects the plywood from the action of water. The bright coloring will help you locate the model if it swims too far or gets tangled in seaweed while diving. It is very good to first soak the model with hot drying oil, then, after drying, coat it twice with oil paint.

If acrylic paints are used, then it is necessary to evenly cover the entire model with them. Leaving no unpainted spots. After polymerization, the acrylic paint becomes resistant to water and protects the plywood from getting wet and swelling.

The screw and steering wheel are cut out of tin from a can. Having cut the screw, pierce it in the middle with a thin awl or a sharply honed tip of a nail. This will be the hole for the shaft. The pin (shaft) should enter this hole tightly, with some effort.

The shaft and the screw are connected in the following sequence: first, the pin (shaft) is inserted into the hole on the inside of the slot for the rubber motor, then three small washers cut from thin tin or brass are put on it. The washers should be smooth and free to rotate on the pin.

You can put a small glass bead between the washers, it will act as a bearing and reduce friction, thus making it easier to rotate the shaft.

The propeller is put on the pin last. Having adjusted its position so that 2-3 mm remains between the eye of the pin and the wall of the slot for the rubber motor, the free end of the pin is folded into a ring and soldered to the screw. You should first anneal the pin so that it does not break when bent. This can be done in the flame of a gas burner, a candle, or simply on a match. The ring on the screw is necessary for twisting the thread of the rubber motor with a crank or a small drill.

The rubber motor is a ring of rubber thread with a section of 1X1 mm, about 400 mm long. So that the rubber is not lost in the water, accidentally jumping off the model, the thread is threaded into the slot of the boat hull (like in the eye of a needle) and tied in a knot. Then one end of the rubber ring is passed into the eye of the propeller shaft, and the other (with a knot) is hooked onto the protrusion in the bow of the boat. The rubber should be slightly stretched in the slot. If it sags, it will create inconvenience when winding.

The performance of a boat is highly dependent on how the propeller blades are curved. A model with a good propeller will go farther, dive better and develop more speed. Therefore, the most serious attention should be paid to the manufacture of the screw. The blades should be bent in two stages: first, before soldering, the screw is bent with fingers, and after soldering with pliers, the trailing edges of the blades bend more steeply (up to 40 ° from the shaft axis). During launches of the boat, you can find the most favorable angle of bending of the blades by bending them in one direction or another.

The last stage of work on the manufacture of a home-made model of a submarine is the installation of ballast on the keel beam. To do this, you need to prepare a strip of lead measuring 12X22 mm, about 1 mm thick. Its weight should be no more than 5 g. This strip is bent in the form of a U-shaped bracket and placed on the keel bar approximately under the "gun" located on the deck. By moving the weight, we can adjust the longitudinal trim of the model and the speed of its immersion.

Lead ballast can be replaced with copper wire 1 mm thick, winding its coil to coil on the keel bar. The wire should be pre-weighed and cut off a piece weighing 5 g.

When testing the boat model for the first time on the water, it should be ensured that the weight does not sink it. The model aircraft should only dive as far as the line connecting the front and rear planes of the horizontal rudders. If the boat is sinking, the weight should be reduced by gradually cutting off pieces of lead from it (or unwinding the wire).

After adjusting the weight, take the model with your left hand, and the crank with your right, hook the propeller ring with a hook and spin the rubber motor, quickly rotating the handle between the thumb and forefinger of your right hand. With one movement of the fingers, it is possible to tighten the screw by 3-4 turns. To fully spin the rubber motor, you will need to make 50-60 movements.

Such a model of a submarine is designed to be launched in a pool or on a river with a weak current.

If you're interested in a submarine to launch in your bathroom or aquarium, then check out a ready-made RC submarine.

Buy a radio-controlled submarine Can .

It is small in size and is controlled by a transmitter. Due to its small size, you can’t go out to an open reservoir with it, but on the other hand, such a radio-controlled submarine can be launched while a child is bathing!

Simon comments:

The small submarine is cool, you can drive fish in her aquarium ...

Radio-controlled submarines are modern models of real boats that can dive underwater.

Types of submarine models

On sale are simplified models, as well as more complex and fully functional copies of existing real submarines. Simple radio-controlled submarines can be classified as children's toys, they are very inexpensive in price. Complicated models refer to more complex professional radio-controlled equipment. They can dive to great depths, are able to move on it at a fairly high speed. Some submarine models allow you to install video cameras. Radio-controlled submarines of the second type are much more expensive.

Characteristics

Submarine models are liked by both children and adults - lovers of such unusual gifts. Radio-controlled is able to move through the water, as well as dive to the depths.

The exterior design of the boats is also different. It can be either absolutely unique or copied from real combat submarines. Often on sale there are models equipped with a water pumping system, which is collected in the ballast part of the apparatus. A similar system is installed on real submarines. Some models also have the function of automatic ascent in the event that the batteries that are used to carry out the movement of the device are discharged. Radio-controlled submarines in this case are equipped with an electric motor. If the submarine is equipped with an internal combustion engine, it operates on conventional fuel. These are professional models. And you need to start familiarizing yourself with the models with simple submarines. Models with three-channel and four-channel control are available for sale. The boat sinks up to 60 cm on average, so it can be used in a pool, bathtub or deep tank. To make the game more exciting, LED lights are installed on the hull of the boat. Radio-controlled models of European and Chinese production are produced. Chinese models are much cheaper than similar European ones, although the quality of two comparable models is almost the same.

RC submarines with camera

In a submarine equipped with a video camera, a submarine is built into the inner hull. The submarine can dive, move in a given direction or not move, as well as accurately position under water, thanks to the presence of an automated ballast tank. The radio-controlled video camera on the boat is designed for wireless video filming at a depth of up to 5 meters. The camcorder works even in the dark, as a special backlight is provided for this. You can follow what is happening in real time. The video signal is sent to a special receiver that is connected to a monitor, computer or TV. The outer hull of the submarine is painted bright yellow, which is clearly visible in the water. The model is also equipped with an automated protective system. When a low battery charge, a weak radio control signal or a leak is detected, automatic pumping of water from the ballast tank is activated, and the boat quickly floats to the surface.

Good day to all dear friends! In today's article, I would like to show you how to make a radio-controlled boat. This craft is great for those who want to get into boat modeling, but boat models are quite expensive. Assembling your own model will not be much cheaper, but much more interesting than just buying a finished boat in a store. Oh well, enough long prefaces, let's go!

And so, for this homemade product we need:
- ABS plastic sheet.
- electric motors 180 class 2 pcs.
- boat propellers.
- adapter for the motor shaft.
- electrodes of suitable diameter.
- aluminum tubes, the inner diameter of which is equal to the outer diameter of the electrodes.
- 2s 7.4v Lipo battery.
- some wire.
- electronics from an old radio-controlled helicopter.
- aluminum plate.
- screws.

Of the tools we will also need:
- Ruler.
- marker.
- stationery knife.
- thermal glue.
- drill.
- screwdriver.
- pliers.
- lubricant.
- soldering iron.

First we need to make the hull of the boat itself. As a material for the case, it is best to take thick sheets of ABS plastic. On a sheet of plastic, using a ruler and a marker, you should mark a rectangle 25 cm long and 11.5 cm wide.

After you figured out the dimensions on a sheet of plastic, you should divide the upper part into rectangles, as shown in the photo below. This is necessary in order to more symmetrically draw the bow of our boat. And we are trying to make the bow of the boat as accurately as possible, but if you fail, you can download and print photo masks on the Internet.

Using a clerical knife, cut off the rectangle and cut off the excess from the rectangle. So that we get something that looks like a boat. Then, with the same clerical knife, we divide our workpiece in half.

With a clerical knife, we cut off the corner on the blanks that we just received. This is necessary so that they can be glued as tightly as possible at an angle.

Then we cut off two blanks so that you get it, as in the photo below.

We apply thermal glue to the blanks and glue them together. From the same plastic, two blanks similar to three squares should be cut. And glue them to the boat in order to strengthen the hull. Throughout the assembly of the case, try not to spare the term glue and glue everything very well, this is necessary for the tightness of the entire structure.

We apply thermal glue to the indicated place and by bending the plastic we glue the two ends together.

From the plastic used, two strips should be cut so wide that they are no higher than the back wall. And glue on the places indicated in the photo.

For the next step, we need to make some kind of "motor mount" on which the electric motors will be mounted. For the motor mount, we need some kind of metal plate, the author of the homemade product decided to cut it out of an aluminum profile. The plate must be placed in the boat so that it does not hang out there. On the aluminum plate itself, two large holes should be drilled for the shafts of the electric motors and four small ones for mounting the electric motors.

We fix the electric motors on the plate. The electric motors will be attached to the plate using a screw connection. After that, we install adapters on the motor shafts.

We take our motor mount with electric motors and glue it to the back of the boat so that the distance between the back wall and the adapter is 1-2 cm.

For the next step, we need an electrode. The electrode in this design will be the axis of the drive, for this we need to remove the insulation from the electrode. It is very convenient to remove the insulation from the electrode with pliers. After the insulation has been removed from the electrode, you need to check whether it will fit into a pre-prepared tube, if so, then continue.

Taking pliers, we divide the electrode into two identical axes. The length of the axles should be slightly longer than the tubes. Then we put the boat propellers on the axis so that they spin in different directions, and insert them into the boat through the tubes. But before inserting the axles into the boat, two holes for them should be pierced in the back wall.

Places where holes were made and tubes inserted should be sealed with thermal glue so that water does not get there.

Having removed the axles with propellers, you should smear the tubes where they are with some kind of lubricant. If you do not lubricate, then in rubbing places there will be strong heating, which will lead to the expansion of the metal, an increase in resistance, which in turn can affect the load on the boat's electronic system.

Solder the wires to the motors. And we solder the wires from the electric motors to the helicopter control board, where the helicopter engines were soldered. There is nothing to say about polarity, it is selected by typing. The main thing is that after turning on, when gas is added, the electric motors rotate in opposite directions, and the boat moves forward. And when turning to the right, the left engine added speed, and the left one slowed down.

We glue the battery to the body of the term with glue. Having cut out a square from the material used, we glue it with the help of thermal glue to the control board and this sandwich must also be glued to the case.

Let's make a roof for a boat, repeating the steps for step-by-step photos. And decorate the boat with what you have.

Modern toys are able to amaze the imagination of not only children, but also adults. And first of all it concerns toys on radio control. About what kind of radio-controlled toys you can please children and yourself, and will be discussed in this article.

1. HEX H2O Underwater Drone

QUAD H2O (Thailand) has released a radio-controlled drone, which is an amphibious quadcopter, which is suitable for both aerial and underwater video filming.
The body of the product is floating and made of waterproof epoxy carbon fiber.
HEX H2O is capable of:
Fly through the air;
Landing on water;
Record depth video.

The device can land on the water, perform a series of surveys, and take to the air again (it has 6 propeller motors). The built-in fan and external heat sinks reliably protect the hexacopter from overheating while driving. The design of the model, namely the presence of a stabilizing suspension, makes it possible to attach to the body of the GO PRO HERO camera.

The battery has a capacity of 6500 mAh, which allows you to increase the flight time up to 25 minutes. At the same time, for flights over short distances, it will be enough to use ordinary batteries.

2. R/C BULLET

American engineer Nick Case in 2013. created a high-speed radio-controlled car model R/C BULLET, which has the following parameters:
Weight - 4.5 kg;
Scale 1:10;
Strict aerodynamic body shape;
Carbon fiber wheels with BSR tires;
Electric motor (power 10hp)

The maximum speed that the car showed during the tests was 302.2 km / h.

3. Model aircraft R-16 COBRA

The R-16 COBRA radio-controlled aircraft opened up a fundamentally new level of aeromodelling.
It is an exact copy of the legendary F-16 fighter and has the following parameters:
Weight - 18 kg;
Scale 1:5.

The body of the aircraft is made of high quality fiberglass. The model is equipped with a TURBIN IQ Hammer engine (full-fledged jet), which allows you to reach speeds of up to 300 km / h.

4. Model of the T-90 tank

The radio-controlled model of the T-90 tank is guaranteed to appeal to fans of military equipment. The toy has the following parameters:
Weight - about 24 kg;
Scale 1:8;
The body is made of the strongest fiberglass;
Chassis - made of metal; the suspension is spring-loaded, and the rollers are on closed-type bearings;
The drive is provided by the presence of 2 electric motors, the power of each of them is 250W;
Control (6 or 8 channel radio control) operates at a frequency of 2.4 GHz, 40 MHz or 35 MHz.

The tank model has an air gun, which is equipped with ammunition (30-40 pieces) of shells (plastic balls, caliber 6 mm). For precise guidance, manufacturers have installed a laser pointer on the model.

Engineer Adi Pitz surprised even the connoisseurs of aeromodelling by presenting a model of the legendary BOEING 747 aircraft with maximum detail of components and parts. The internal mechanics of the model allows it to exactly repeat the actions of the original in flight, as well as during takeoff and landing.
The model has the following characteristics:
Weight - 68 kg;
Scale 1:13;
Wingspan - 4.9 m, and length - 5 m;
Engines (4 pieces) gas turbine.

The aircraft model is controlled by a remote control.

6. Multicopter SYMA-X9

SYMA has released a lightweight multicopter (weight - 500g), which is able to move quite quickly, both in the air and on the ground. The X9 is controlled by a remote control.
The toy has 4 durable wheels, and in the air it is capable of performing aerobatics.

The X-9 hull is cruciform, and in tandem with 4 existing propellers, it behaves steadily on the ground and adequately resists gusts of wind during flights. To align the position of the model in the air, it is equipped with a 6-axis gyroscope. In order to be able to use the toy, it is equipped with LED-backlight.

7. TYPHOON H drone

New for 2016 from Yuneec is the new TYPHOON H drone, which features six rotors instead of the traditional four.

The copter is equipped with an INTEL REAL SENSE R200 camera and an INTEL ATOM processor that controls the operation of the drone. Both of these developments are aimed at correcting the flight path and allow you to automatically evade collisions.

Among the equipment, it should be noted a 4K camera, which has a resolution of 1080 P and is installed on a 3-axis gimbal, which allows you to shoot a panorama with an overview of 360ᵒ The piloting and shooting functions can be divided into two controllers. To control the copter, the ST 16 remote control is used, which has a built-in screen. TYPHOON H has 5 flight modes, from which the user chooses the one he needs.

8. BLITZ FLUX BRUSHLESS 2WD car model

This rear-wheel drive radio-controlled car model is designed for lovers of high speeds. She is capable of performing incredible stunts and has the following characteristics:
Scale 1:10;
Electronics waterproof;
Flux Reload V2 motor (brushless) with hydro-resistive housing;
The body is made of special material Scorpion;
The power elements of the suspension and chassis are made of high-strength nylon;
The gearbox is adapted to work at high speeds;
The steering uses a powerful servo.

Such a reliable design of the BLITZ FLUX BRUSHLESS 2WD allows the model to be used in various weather conditions.

9. NEPTUNE SB-1 submarine model

Thunder Tiger has released the first model of the NEPTUNE SB-1 radio-controlled submarine. The total weight of the model is 7.7 kg. The inner hull of the boat is equipped with a high-tech control unit. The nose of the boat is made of transparent plastic, which makes it possible to install a camera there for underwater filming. The hull of the boat itself is bright yellow and is clearly visible under water.

The NEPTUNE SB-1 submarine has an electric ballast tank, which allows the model to dive without acceleration. In addition, the boat has a protection system that, in the event of a depressurization of the hull, loss of signal, or when the battery is discharged, raises it to the surface of the water, automatically pumping water out of the tank.

10. Tank AMPHIBIAN

The new RC model of the Amphibian tank has a real cannon that can fire projectiles up to 20m away.

The main advantage of this toy is its ability to move both on land and on water. If the Amphibian approaches the water, a command is given from the remote control, and the wheels of the combat vehicle roll into the tank, turning it into a boat.

Interesting and. Great entertainment for kids and adults.

About recreational submarines, I've got a burning desire to build my own. At the same time, I wanted to make everything at home without the use of lathes and other machines. I myself came from the world of aircraft modeling. And this article will tell you how to build a simple radio-controlled submarine using only available materials from hardware stores and Chinese sites.

Theory
The submarine model is built according to the same principles as the real one. In the center is a "durable" waterproof case, inside which are hidden all the controls and electronics. Outside, it is surrounded by a "light" permeable body, which serves to wrap around and beautiful appearance. Our model will consist only of a durable case.

At speed, the submarine can dive using the depth rudders, and in a static position, only with the help of a ballast tank. How it works? When floating on the surface, the mass of the boat is slightly less than the mass of the volume of displaced water (Archimedes' law). Those. if the boat has a volume of 3 liters, then its mass should be slightly less than 3 kg. Then the boat begins to draw water inside the strong hull. The volume of the hull remains the same, but the mass increases - and the boat sinks. At this point, the air pressure inside the case increases slightly, but not enough to break the tightness.

During construction, there are 3 main problems. They are completely independent and can be solved separately.

radio equipment (2.4 GHz does not work underwater)
sealing - housing, motor shaft and rudder thrust
ballast tank

radio equipment
2.4 GHz does not pass under water. The easiest way to find old equipment is in the MHz band (27MHz, 35MHz, 40MHz, 72MHz or even 433MHz). They are still with the modellers and you can find ads for sale on the forums. A man gave it to me for free when he found out about the submarine.

Sealing
We need to ensure the tightness of 3 elements:

rugged body
motor shaft
rudder control rods

Rugged Body
often referred to as VTC (Water Tight Cilinder) or WTC (Water Tight Cilinder), is a plastic pipe with a diameter of 75 mm and a length of 600 mm. From both ends, cylindrical plugs with a groove for the sealing ring are inserted into it. The pipe is bought in a plumbing store, we will make the plugs from several layers of PVC sheet 4-5 mm thick, and we order the rings in China.

The cap will consist of 6 layers. The inner diameter of the pipe is 71 mm, the thickness of the sealing ring is 3.5 mm. Then the main sheets have a diameter of 70mm, small 65mm and outer 75mm. It is very important and very difficult to maintain the alignment of the sheets so that the rings are pressed evenly. For centering, a bolt with a diameter of 6 mm (or a construction stud) is used. We drill a hole, then draw a cylinder of the desired diameter and cut it out with a jigsaw with a margin. We bring to the desired diameter on the axis clamped in the drill. I sanded with sandpaper on a bar.

We glue the sheets also on the axis, trying to maintain perpendicularity. The best glue for PVC is "Moment-Gel". "Titan" does not take, the usual "Moment" - too. Everything, we put on rubber rings and go to test for tightness.

Deadwood
This is the name of the assembly that ensures the tightness of the motor shaft. Bearings are soldered into the ends of the outer tube. A shaft is inserted and a thick lubricant (for example, lithol) is clogged inside the pipe. It must sometimes be added, because. water is gradually washed out.

I bought shafts and bearings on Ali, copper pipes and grease on the construction market. I found bearings 3mm inside and 6mm outside diameter. Accordingly, we buy stainless steel shafts of 3 mm, and a copper tube with an internal of 6 mm (the external turned out to be 8 mm). Be sure to buy special shafts, ordinary wire is asymmetrical, there will be beats.

For soldering, you need acid and a 3rd hand;)

Rudder rods
We bring out the rods through rubber corrugations fixed on copper tubes with a diameter of 6 mm. The diameter of the rods themselves is 1.5mm. I used hard wire with the insulation stripped off.

Ballast tank
This is usually the most difficult part of the submarine. But we will make it simple - we will use a micropump. More precisely, a peristaltic micropump - it holds the pressure itself and does not require additional valves. The pump itself is capable of developing a pressure of 1 atmosphere, which means it will be able to pump the tank even at a depth of 10 meters. The pump is controlled in the same way as a conventional electric motor - a stroke controller or a servo with micro-switches.

There is an option to fill a rubber ball, but it may burst. We will use a 150 ml syringe, called a Janet syringe. The pump itself moves the piston. You can also hang sensors and control the volume of incoming water.

To speed up the immersion, I changed the silicone tube to an internal diameter of 4mm. The motor is designed for 6 volts, I supply 12. As a result, the motor heats up a little, but not critically. The final speed is 100 ml in 20 seconds.

Layout
The body is divided into compartments.

battery and receiver
tank
pump
servos and controllers
main motor

The tank should be in the middle so that the boat sinks horizontally (without trim).

Mounting elements are made of porous PVC sheet 5mm thick. Then they are pulled together on iron studs located along the body. The rear plug should also be fixed on studs to ensure the rigidity of the assembly with the motor and rudder rods.

Balancing
The body volume is approximately 2.8 liters. The mass of all parts is about 1 kg, I had to add another 1.8 kg of cargo. The main principle is simple: The volume of the above-water part must be less than the volume of the tank. It can be of any mass, as long as the total remains 2.8 kg. Therefore, surface elements are made of copper or thin plastics.

Balancing is carried out in 2 positions:

Surface - By moving / adding weights and gluing the foam to the underwater part, we achieve zero trim. It is important at this stage to fix the foam only below the waterline.
Submerged - add foam above the waterline and achieve the horizon.

telemetry: voltage, currents, depth, orientation
rescue: buoy, water detector
torpedoes, missiles
3d printed parts

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