Marajo Island is the largest island in Brazil.

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- It's only now... And then she will die... She will die very terribly - they will cut off her head... But I don't like to watch this, - Stella whispered sadly.
In the meantime, the beautiful lady came abreast of our young Axel and, seeing him, froze in surprise for a moment, and then, blushing charmingly, smiled at him very sweetly. For some reason, I had the impression that around these two people the world froze for a moment ... As if for a very short moment for them there was nothing and no one around, except for the two of them ... But then the lady moved on , and the magic moment broke up into thousands of short moments that intertwined between these two people into a strong sparkling thread, so as not to let them go again...
Axel stood completely stunned and, again not noticing anyone around, followed his beautiful lady with his eyes, and his subdued heart slowly left with her ... He did not notice what glances the passing young beauties looked at him, and did not answer their shining, inviting smiles.

Count Axel Fersen Marie Antoinette

Axel really was, as they say, “both inside and out” a very attractive person. He was tall and graceful, with huge, serious gray eyes, always amiable, restrained and modest, which attracted both women and men equally. His correct, serious face rarely lit up with a smile, but if it did happen, then at such a moment Axel became simply irresistible ... Therefore, it was completely natural that the attention of the charming female half increased towards him, but, to their common regret, Axel was only interested in one creature in the whole wide world - its irresistible, beautiful queen ...

The best beach on the island Marajo located between the villages Joanes And Salvaterra…
In general, this huge, most big Island Brazil is inhabited in a small coastal area.
Just a few villages connected by quite a decent paved road.
In season, a ferry transporting cars from Belém runs to the island.
Therefore, the future Robinsons and Crusoe: take a car for pumping at the rental and car agencies at Belém airport!

Travel time from Belen: 3 hours.
Departure of the ferry at 6-30 from the pier that any taxi driver knows.
From our hotel on foot about 15 minutes.
Of course, we were traveling not on a car ferry, but on an ordinary scow with a capacity of 600 people.
I specifically asked for the ship's documents from the staff, when it seemed that we were about to capsize right in the middle of the Amazon River.
That's the way it is: a maximum of 600.

The ticket costs 14 rubles 65 kopecks. Bought locally.
Those who wish can go to the island with an overnight stay. The place is not bad. Picturesque.
Lots of birds and mosquitoes. The LP’s warning that there are many wild and highly venomous snakes in the forest came true: they saw a couple of vipers and one viper on a tree…
The restaurants on the beach are excellent.
There is kashasa in the general store.
The pasades have pools and even a kind of canopy over the swamps, where there are small anacondas, as well as water buffaloes.

The history of the origin of these buffaloes here is very interesting, since they are not the indigenous inhabitants of the island.
A herd of these hard workers was transferred by a French ship heading to neighboring Guiana.
And somewhere near the Amazon delta, he drowned.
All the sailors died, and the water buffaloes sailed to the island of Marajo, multiplied and now wallow in the mud chewing gum everywhere ...

For tourists locals arrange activities: riding a buffalo through the mud, and then bathing him on a public beach.
What is surprising, I will tell you: I have not seen a single (!) pile of shit on the beach.
Only on paved roads...

But in order:

The ferry to Marajo Island looks like this:

Without a twinge of conscience, one must occupy the middle row, where two men or 4 women can fit stretched out to their full height.
Do not be shy when you come to the ship to throw someone's things into the passage and fall into the vacant seat.
The locality takes places for its friends and treats the treachery of tourists kindly.

I advise the upper deck, closer to the bow.
On the lower deck in the bow, the TV is blaring and bruises are thumping at the cafe.
Behind are the motors - very noisy and hot.

When a storm comes, go down and lie down in a free place: lying down is easier to carry.
And it shakes, I suspect, there always: from the ocean, the wind drives a wave that hits the side of the ferry crossing the channel.
As already mentioned, it is 30 km.

There are life jackets overhead, life rafts on the roof of the ship.
If the ferry turns over, it is advisable to get out through the side that is above the water, otherwise you will have to dive through the flooded side.
There is no chance to get out like that from the lower deck.
Ferries are turned over annually.
They are caught at the exit to the ocean, turned back and towed to the port of Belem, to the dry dock for the next repair.

At first, the path lies between small islands Papagais And Cotijuba.
The islands are absolutely not beautiful, the coast is muddy.
Mangroves. Alligators and mosquitoes.
Didn't see any parrots. Maybe there is, but there are more of them on Marajo ...

Then the riverbed, pitching, nauseous, during which it is better to try to relax putting a life jacket under your head and sleep.
Then the entrance to the bay Foz do Rio Camara and that's it.
We've arrived.

On the pier they meet bemo and pasiki for transporting people wherever they say.
To the beach Salvaterra take 4 rubles.
On the road 30 minutes.

This day

The day was just right
the storm that threw our ferry like a chip 2 hours ago receded into the Amazon jungle and crackling thunder could still be heard, but this sound was more tired than a threat.
The sun fired up its oven and roasted skin and soul.
Well, a fair amount of cachaça with lime juice and cane sugar could not help but increase the contrast in the eyes.
On the way, we came across a small stream that goes far into the depths of the jungle.

Retreat: if you go from the pier towards the beach, then on the right there will be cultivated lands: arable land overgrown with weeds and rare oil palms.
And on the left there will be a real jungle, from which sometimes snakes crawl out onto the road and crazy monkeys run out.

And you, reader, have you ever had such a feeling: you look somewhere into the distance and this distance calls you, beckons you and some kind of aching feeling arises in the solar plexus area.
That same feeling came to me when we drove over the bridge over this river.

– Amigo! Brake for a couple of minutes. You have to bamos por la baneiro (go possssss in Russian)...
The minivan pulled over to the side of the road and turned on the emergency lights.

I got out of it and went deeper into the forest.
In truth, everything was dictated by some kind of internal receiver-transmitter.
In a sober mind and sound memory, I would not have dared to do this.
I walk along the riverbed.
The water is as dark as Americano coffee and still as a mirror of mercury.

The air around him vibrated slightly from inaudible sounds and from the haze of the equatorial daytime heat.
An Amazonian brown carpet gently sags underfoot.
Knots, branches cling to the T-shirt and scratch the skin. Sweat trickles down his face and tickles his chin before dripping. For what? Where?
I did not know that. Just walked and walked.

Oleg stayed by the car, because he did not know the motives that pushed me to get out and go into the thicket.
Pee could be right on the side of the road.
The river bed veered to the side and thickets parted in front of me.
It was a small clearing. The light at the bottom of it fell in pointed rays from the tops of the trees.

I stood in the middle and did not know what to do next.
I stood and looked down at my feet. Then I raised my head and looked up. Nothing. Nothing to give me a sign of what to do next.
I lifted my head up, raised my hands and began to shift from foot to foot to circle around me.
The sun's rays flew past me like yellow lightning.

The air was filled with an elastic nature like a padding polyester pillow...
I kept looking up and waiting...
And then the sound of silence was broken by the crackling of breaking twigs and springy branches.
Oleg, after waiting for a while, decided to check what was the reason for my absence for so long.

What are you?
Yes, I have decided...
-Well, is everything okay?
-Yeah...

Already leaving the clearing, I noticed on the trunk of the oldest tree, with a triple crown, an inscription apparently recently carved.
She said: "Semper movemento"

Asphalt ran into an urban-type settlement Salvaterra.
A small village with several churches, one school, one hospital and many general stores where they sell cachaca.
We asked the driver to take us not to a specific hotel or passage (we didn’t have any), but simply to nice beach. T
where there is not only sand and water, but also food. That is restaurants.

The place where we were brought met these requirements: There was an Amazon river with water the color of coffee with milk. There was a river flowing into the Amazon River with water the color of black coffee.
There was white, clean sand. There were restaurants on the beach.

While the cook was frying and steaming our simple order, I kept thinking about this inscription on the tree trunk.
What is she and in general, does she refer to me or is it just a series of events that have nothing to do with each other ...
And only today I realized that everything is not accidental.

Today, when we checked in for a flight to Santerem and got on the plane, we had to get our luggage again and leave the airport with the desire to change the route and fly to El Salvador, where the ocean, beaches, islands ...: the plane's hydraulics failed, so everyone was urgently evacuated into the airport building, and the plane was driven away for repairs.
Deciding that this was a sign, we went to hand over tickets and decided to change the shoulder in the airpass for a flight to El Salvador earlier than the scheduled and paid date.

Then events took place that forced us to abandon throwing and pick up the previously returned ticket just at the moment when the operator raised his hands over the computer keys, about to make a consolidation.
But he didn't.
Change date on airpass.
Haven't changed.
Explaining that an Airpass issued on an AirFrance letterhead can only be changed by AirFrance

As a result, we fly to Santerem and everything should be as it should be.

The results of a trip to the island of Marajo.

The place is not bad. You can stay for a couple of days.
Relax.
Lie on the sand or sit in a river of black coffee-colored water.

Water contains many tannins and amino acids as it flows from the forest, washing the roots of trees that may not even be known to botanists.
The fact is that this huge island in the Amazon Delta is still poorly understood, since its central regions are swampy and simply impassable...
By the way, after sitting in the water of this river, for a long time I could not get rid of the embarrassment caused by the spontaneously rising member, which protruded underpants so that I had to hide behind a backpack.

The way back was uneventful, so that in the evening of that day we were already sitting at the booked table at a height of 10 meters on the heads of those around us who were having dinner.

My new driver's license was made by a Belem forger this afternoon.
This is in case we take the car in Santeren.
But maybe we'll just get there Alter do Chao by taxi, and there we will take a motorized pirogue to travel to the Indians along the tributary of the Amazon - the river Rio Tapajos.
In the future, I will try to take a car in El Salvador on these rights.

5 /5 (3 )

- (Marajó), a low-lying island in the delta of the river. Amazon (Brazil). It is located between its Southern and Big branches in the north, r. A couple to the south and the bay of Marajo to the east and southeast. The area is about 48 thousand km2. West Side covered with evergreen forests with ... ... Encyclopedic reference book " Latin America»

- (Marajó), an island in the Amazon Delta (Brazil), between Bol. and Yuzh. sleeves. The largest river island in the world. Length 220 km, width 150 km, square. 48 thousand km². Low, especially in the east. h., where swamps flooded during the rainy season and ... ... Geographic Encyclopedia

- (Marajó) a low-lying island at the mouth of the Amazon River, in Brazil, between one of its northern branches, the Para River in the south and Marajó Bay in the southeast. The area is about 48 thousand km2. The western part is covered with dense evergreen forest with valuable ... ...

Marajo- (Maraj) Maraj, a large flat lake at the mouth of the Amazon River, separating the Amazon from the Para River ... Countries of the world. Dictionary

Marajo on the map. Marajo (port. Mesorregião do Marajó) is an administratively statistical mesoregion in Brazil, part of the state ... Wikipedia

Territorialis Praelatura Maraiensis Main city Sori, Brazil Country ... Wikipedia

Or Marajo, port. Marajoara/Marajó culture The pre-Columbian culture that existed on the island of Marajora at the mouth of the Amazon River is identified by characteristic pottery. Charles C. Mann (en: Charles C. Mann) dated this culture to the period 800 ... ... Wikipedia

General information. Yu. A. mainland in Zap. hemisphere, between 12° 28 s. sh. (Cape Gallinas, on the Guajira Peninsula) and 53°54 S. sh. (Cape Froward on the Brunswick Peninsula), 81°20 W. (Cape Parinas) and 34 ° 40 in. (Cabo Branco Cape). The greatest dl. 7150 km, lat. up to 5150 km ... Soviet historical encyclopedia

I Para (Turkish raga, from Persian para piece) 1) Turkish silver coin, circulating since 1623; originally contained 1.1 g of silver. From the end of the 17th century the main monetary unit, equal to 1/4 Piastre. By the middle of the 19th century. the silver content dropped to... Great Soviet Encyclopedia

1) the capital of Brazil. New town, built specifically as the capital of the state wa Brasil, was named Brasilia, derived from the name of the state wa. In Russian language the name of the capital is transmitted with the ending ia Brazil, i.e. the differences that exist in portuguese ... Geographic Encyclopedia

Books

Brazil. Guide Series: Russian guide. Polyglot. , Stefan Mühlhausen.. A true paradise with picturesque crescent-shaped bays, undulating dunes and mountain groves, this country has been known since almost five centuries ago the foot of the first European, Pedro Alvarez ...

On October 16, 1968, on the island of Marajo, at the mouth of the Amazon, an absolutely exceptional event happened.

Aircraft brand "Chessna", having risen from the airfield of the Brazilian city of Belém, after half an hour of flight over the yellow Amazonian waters, delivered the first foreigner to Marajo.

Strictly speaking, the arrival was not a foreigner in the legal sense of the word, for he was a Brazilian, and the island of Marajo belongs to Brazil. But the island has its own concepts, and any person from the “continent” is an extremely undesirable person there. That is, there is, of course, no law prohibiting an outsider from landing on the island, but on Marajo, an island with an area larger than Belgium, but slightly smaller than Denmark, the law still replaces the will of ten fazendeiros - the owners of the island.

The ancestors of the wayward fazendeiros, the families of Miranda, Livramento, Gomes, Magallanos, landed on Marajo in 1659, leading detachments of armed Negro slaves. After a short time, the Arua Indians who lived on the island were exterminated, and the few survivors fled to the north coast - a vast swampy area overgrown with shrubs and teeming with anacondas. This coast is now called Mondangos and is considered no man's land. The rest of the island was divided up by ten families...

It was not difficult to conquer the island. It was much more difficult to establish a life on it. It was not possible to set up plantations of coffee or sugar cane - the island was too flat (only a few burial hills remained from the Indians), it was too low above sea level. In the rainy season - from January to June - the land is flooded with water, the rest of the time there is hellish land on the island, the grass withers and burns out -

on such days, the island is difficult to distinguish from the air, yellow in the yellow waters of the Amazon / Only its southwestern part retains a green color: it is covered with a dense forest - a real selva, in which jaguars and poisonous snakes are in charge. During the floods great river invade the land, and hundreds of rivers, streams, streams and brooks for a short time cut Marajo. When the tide goes out, almost all of these streams disappear.

The Portuguese tried to engage in cattle breeding and brought horses and cows to the island. Some of the horses ran away from the owners, fell into wildness and incredibly bred, giving rise to a violent mustang tribe. There were so many mustangs, and they were so gluttonous, that they almost brought down all the grass on the island. The islanders declared war on the mustangs and in the end almost exterminated them altogether. So sadly ended the attempt to breed horses. With cows, it was even worse - they did not manage to take root in the crazy climate of Marajo at all.

At the end of the last century, the fazendeiro house of José Vicente Shermont de Miranda brought a batch of so-called water buffalos out of Europe. Dom José saw these buffaloes in the Pontic marshes near Rome, and he liked them for their unpretentiousness and strength. In total, twelve buffaloes were brought. They were released into the swamps of Mondangos, and since that time buffaloes have become an integral part of the island fauna.

When the buffaloes bred, they began to catch them, and they quite easily again submitted to man. However, the islanders are still undertaking trips to Mondangos to replenish the herds. Caught buffaloes are driven to the master's house, and then distributed among the shepherds.

The usual hacienda on Marajo consists of a manor house and several villages where shepherds live - vaqueiros. On the hacienda Livramento, for example, from the master's residence to the nearest village is three days' journey along the river or on horseback.

In the three hundred and ten years that have passed since 1659, little has changed in the relations of the white lords with their black subjects on Marajo. Wakey-ros-Negroes can neither read nor write. When meeting with the owner, they kiss his hand, without his permission they do not dare to leave the hacienda. The punishment of the guilty is extremely simple - flogging, the definition of guilt - and even simpler: everything is in the hands of the landowner.

So, on October 16, 1968, a foreigner arrived on the island - an expert from the Belem tourist office "Amazon Explorers Ltd", invited by the house of Napoleon de Livramento.

House Napoleon decided to straighten out his slightly shaky business in the manner of the English lords who opened the gates of family castles for tourists. The same tourists must improve the well-being of Napoleon's house, and he guarantees them the Complete Entertainment and Attractions of the Largest River Island in the World.

There is something to surprise here. For example, on Marajo, and only Marajo, the vaqueiros ride standing bulls. The fact is that during the flood you can only ride on the backs of buffaloes protruding from the water. Riding a buffalo with your bare, scratched feet dangling is an extremely dangerous occupation: predatory piranhas dart in the water.

Piranhas are not the only danger. During the rains, the island is literally teeming with caimans. When dry land sets in, caimans are drawn to swamps and lakes. In a small lake, sometimes up to a thousand caimans accumulate, literally lying one on top of the other. And here's another attraction for you: "Hunting for crocodiles with a lasso in Marajoy."

The Vaqueiros throw a lasso, pull the caiman ashore and, in order not to damage the skin, beat the crocodile with large wooden hammers.

“Guaranteed Wild Buffalo Capture – $250 Per License!” is also the future of Marajo.

And finally, idyllic patriarchy - with kissing the hand and flogging ... This, the bonds, is his present.

rocks South America completely covered with petroglyphs of the Sun and the Moon, huge crocodiles and crosses. Of particular interest are the Rio Negro rock paintings depicting archaic tall people in long robes. One hand is outstretched, the other clutches a long staff or wand. Their hairstyle resembles a halo, but somewhat elongated. Similar figures were found in the Upper Orinoco region, in Timeri (Netherlands Guiana), as well as in ancient ruins high mountain Tiahuanaco, in Colombia and Mexico.

The island of Marajo, near the mouth of the Amazon, contains a prehistoric burial site, where burial urns depicting various racial types of people were found. Their city is found below the level of the Ecuadorian coast. Magnificent obsidian mirrors, made in the form of lenses, and strange, amazingly shaped prisms, on the faces of which various symbols and signs are engraved, were found here.

Irrigation canals, giant statues carved from a monolithic rock, were found off the coast of Magdalena in the jungle of San Agustino. The houses of the village of San Agustino are still filled with antique statues installed in the square. Obviously, there is a connection of these ancient megalithic ruins with the Easter Islands, Ponare, Maldives, and also with the Marquesas Islands.

The rock carvings depict two tall people who are dressed in long robes, while one of them is holding a rod in his hand. Their hairstyles look like an elongated halo. These hairstyles are found in the frescoes of the sky-high city of Tiahuana-ko. This mysterious city seems to have been specially elevated to the great heights of the Andes by the titanic force of the elements into a rarefied atmosphere.

Dugons and flying fish are depicted in the ancient ornaments of this city, and sea harbors have been discovered in its ruins. This city lay thousands of years ago at sea level. Lake Titicaca, near Thiau Anaco, has two yards thick chalk deposits of ancient algae. This clearly indicates that mountain range was once a seaside.