Mountains in Dagestan name. Beautiful places of Dagestan
What strikes and delights any person who comes to Dagestan? Certainly, mountain ranges. The mountains of Dagestan are perhaps its main attraction. At the same time, guests from the central part of Russia often do not even wonder how one peak differs from another. But for the Dagestanis themselves, many mountains have their own history and names.
Geographical and climatic features
Almost half of the entire Dagestan territory is occupied by mountains. They encircle the republic from the southeast and northwest, but at the same time they are considered foothills. The highlands are the central area. Few people know that in the territory of the republic there are 30 highest mountain peaks- peaks with a height of more than 4,000 meters. The largest of them is Bazardyuzyu, it (together with the ridge) is the border with Russia and the southernmost point of the country. In general, the area occupied by mountains reaches 25.5 thousand square meters. kilometers.
Despite the abundance of mountains, the republic has a fairly dry climate. It belongs to the temperate continental. This is because the Dividing Range does not allow moist air currents to pass from the south. This partly contributes to the brightness of the famous Dagestan alpine meadows - this is the name of the flat areas on the mountain slopes adjacent to the forests.
Finally, Mount Sarykum is of great interest to researchers. Its height is small - only 351 meters. But Sarykum attracts scientists by the fact that it is, in fact, a dune - the largest in Eurasia. The sand mountain is constantly “dancing”, changing its shape under the pressure of the winds, but it does not crumble.
Alpine glaciers and climbing routes
Not only peaks and ridges are calling card region. Speaking about the Dagestan mountains, one cannot ignore the glaciers. There are many of them here, but they do not constitute any integral array and are distributed over peaks and ridges. The largest glacier is observed on the Bogossky Range, where the area of glaciation reaches more than 16 km2. At the same time, some glaciers descend quite low - for example, Belengi (2520 meters). Here are the most Famous places glaciation:
- Bogossky massif. This is the largest glacier in the eastern part, and in addition, the largest in length - over 3 km.
- Butnuschuer - Korkagel. The area of the glacier is 2.2 sq. km, and it is clearly insufficiently studied by specialists.
- Bishiney-Saladag. It occupies the second area after the Bogossky glaciation and includes 27 glaciers. The area is about 10 square kilometers.
- Snow Ridge. This glaciation is the northernmost in the republic, its area is 7.72 sq. km.
- Dyultydag. On this ridge, glaciation is located on the northern slopes. Glaciers here are not represented by vast areas, but their boundaries are well explored.
It should be borne in mind that, despite the fact that the mountainous territory as a whole is well studied by both geologists and historians, there are still many discoveries ahead of researchers. In the meantime beautiful mountains Dagestan continues to attract tourists and climbers. There's quite a lot going on here tourist routes, and is replenished at the expense of the tourist industry.
Today you can go, for example, along the Main Caucasian Range along the catchment area of the Sulak River (the route takes about 46 km). Another interesting option- along the Snow Ridge through the plateau of the Celestial Falling Lakes to the same Sulak. Causes considerable interest among tourists and the transition Oritskali Dagestan Gorge - Moshota. Finally, there is always the opportunity to walk along the line of the Bogossky Range along the watershed of the Avar and Andy Koisu rivers.
These are not all possible routes. The region is as diverse as it is. Tourists are always welcome in the villages, where the inhabitants have long been famous for their generosity and hospitality. to personally see its nature and the people who live here and can tell a lot about their native mountains.
Dagestan is a country of rocky and age-old mountains, this is how Dagestan is translated from the Turkic dialect. Half of the territory of Dagestan is occupied Caucasian mountains(56%), it is surprising that the average height of the entire territory of Dagestan is 960 m.
The highest and most colorful peaks of Dagestan
The most south point In Russia, the peak of Bazarduzu with a height of 4466 m is located on the border of Azerbaijan and Dagestan. This mountain is also the top of the Watershed, the ridge of the Greater Caucasus. Bazarduzu is an unusually beautiful and hard-to-reach peak, which climbers from all over the world dream of conquering.
The second highest mountain in Dagestan is considered to be the Central Diklomasta with a height of 4285 m, the third place is occupied by the top of Addala-Shuhgelmeer, whose height is 4151 m. It is these glaciers that feed the Belengi River, give rise to the Tunsadaor, Saraor, Kila Rivers. In places where the relief is broken, glaciers form real icefalls. Blue-green masses of ice under their weight slowly move down, while spreading a unique echo through the gorge. Terrible glaciers live their centuries-old life, reminding of themselves from time to time with a distant roar.
There is a weather station not far from the Addala Severny glacier, because the mountains of Dagestan are a real “weather kitchen”, the vagaries of which are difficult to predict.
In total, there are 30 mountain peaks on the territory of Dagestan, the height of which exceeds 4000 meters, and about 20 peaks are close to this mark.
Sacred mountain of Dagestan
The southern and western regions of the country are a real hard-to-reach mountain kingdom, with mountain peaks lost in the clouds, eternal snows and glaciers, stone rivers.
Many peaks of Dagestan are shrouded in myths and ancient legends. Mount Shalbuzdag (4142 m.) is considered sacred by the local population, having conquered it, one can hope for the fulfillment of any desire. Pilgrimages have been made to this mountain for centuries. locals, and now the mountain is a popular destination among esotericists and mystics. Shalbuzdag is isolated and gives the impression of an unusually high and majestic mountain.
Relief of mountainous Dagestan
The mountainous part of the country is characterized by a very complex and intricate relief, it is a whole labyrinth of mountain peaks, sharp rocks and mysterious gorges. In the Dagestan mountains, many mountain rivers have their origins that flow into the Caspian Sea. Rivers divide the terrain and give a special charm to impregnable mountains, flowing through gorges and deep valleys. In the highlands, glacial landforms such as moraine deposits and glacial lakes have been preserved.
The powerful and formidable mountains of Dagestan attract many climbers, each mountain organizes climbing to the highest peaks.
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Shalbuzdag is the main natural attraction of Dagestan. Its distinguishing feature, in comparison with others, is that this mountain, as it were, stands apart, rising like a lonely pyramid, crowned with a jagged peak. Thanks to this location, Shalbuzdag gives the impression of the highest peak in the southern part of Dagestan, although the neighboring ones - Bazarduzu and Shakhdag - are actually higher. But this is not all the features of the mysterious natural phenomenon. Shalbuzdag. The most famous mountain in Dagestan. Every year from July to August pilgrims from all over the Caucasus come here. - If you ask, then everything will be fulfilled, it just takes time. The mountain is closer to Allah, he hears our prayers. The sacred mountain became after the grave of the righteous Suleiman appeared there. According to legend, he was very God-fearing, and when he died, a miracle happened. Since then, pilgrims come here every year. They bring alms and ask God for health for loved ones. It is believed that in order for prayers to be heard, one must go around the feast three times and be sure to tie a ribbon or scarf. Scientists believe that there used to be a sea on the site of the mountain. Unlike all other heights, Shalbuzdag is distinguished by its unusual shape - a pyramid with a jagged top. This gives the mountain a special mystery. Mount Shalbuzdag is popularly called the road to the fulfillment of desires. The height of the mountain is 4 thousand 150 meters. People believe that if you overcome this distance, then all your dreams and desires will certainly come true. The higher people climb, the steeper the climb itself becomes. The narrow path is strewn with small pebbles, because of them the feet constantly slip. Choking from a lack of oxygen, travelers go up, stopping for a breather almost every 20 meters. It is quite normal to meet more than one pair of worn-out sneakers or slippers on the road. On the mountain, even the most comfortable shoes can not withstand the load. But, despite the difficulties and armed with a stick, people go to their goal. However, good travelers help someone. The stone path leads to a small lake. It is located in the middle of two rocks, where the rays of the sun almost do not fall. The water here is clear and cold, even in summer it is covered thin ice. The source is considered sacred, and the water in it is healing. From the lake to the top there is the last spurt - one kilometer. Here, another test awaits a person - a narrow passage between two rocks. In order to get out of it, you need to climb the stones, which seem to be varnished. According to legend, a sinful person, even the skinniest, gets stuck in this passage. Well, those to whom God has forgiven sins pass easily.
In this material, I bring to your attention a story about our trip to the Dokuzparinsky district.
The next point of our route was the Dokuzparinsky district. Having previously discussed all our actions, we left for Usukhchay, where Rakhman Gereev, a representative of the FLNKA in the Dokuzparinsky district, was already waiting for us.
As the main goal, we chose a visit to the highest mountain village in Europe - Kurush. Rahman provided us with transport in advance.
Dokuzparinsky district is the smallest Lezgi district of Dagestan in terms of area and population. It is located on far south Republic, it is here that the southernmost point of Russia is located - an unnamed peak near Mount Ragdan.
View of the villages Tekipirkhur and Kalajukh
The name Dokuzpara comes from the Turkic word "doqquz" - nine. It was this number of villages that was part of the historical Dokuzparinsky free society, which, however, was located on the territory of the neighboring Akhtynsky district.
And on the territory of the present Dokuzparinsky district, the Altyparinsky free society was historically located.
Almost all the villages of Dokuzpary are located in the narrow valley of the ChiekhivatsI river. This gorge is bordered by the massifs of the Shalbuzsuv, Main Caucasian, Samur ridges, as well as the spurs of the Erysuv mountains, separating the UsukhvatsIa gorge from the neighboring Adzhiakhur gorge, which already belongs to the neighboring Kusar region.
Kalajukh
In general, the region itself is notable for its extraordinary relief characteristics. The main part of the territory of the region is represented by a deep gorge, and mountain ranges and peaks rise along the perimeter of the gorge.
Among them is the most high point Dagestan - Mount Kichensuv (Bazarduzu) 4466 m, a little southeast is Mount Ragdan. These and other peaks belong to the Main Caucasian Range.
Waterfall Charaur, breaking down from Erysuva
Mount Shalbuzsuv is the second highest in the region and the third in the republic, its peak is at a height of 4142 m. Massive spurs composed of clay slates and calcareous rocks extend from the mountain in all directions.
In the south-eastern part of the region, there is the center of mountaineering in Russia - Mount Erysuv with a height of 3925 m. Every year, the most avid lovers of extreme recreation climb this mountain. From the north, in front of the villages of the Dokuzparinsky district, the Gestinkil peak rises with a height of 2788 m.
The first settlement that we meet at the entrance to Dokuzpara is Karakure. In our time, there are two villages - a new and an old aul, located a few kilometers from each other.
View of Kurush, Shalbuzsuv and the surrounding ranges from Mount Erysuv
According to some sources, already in the III millennium BC, in the Bronze Age, the surroundings of Karakure were inhabited by people. Evidence of this are the huge areas of cemeteries surrounding the village from all sides.
In the center of the most high peak Dagestan - Mount Kichensuv (Bazarduzu), on the left Erysuv
According to historians, Karakyure was formed by the merger of several settlements - Yar-kyil, Chiuru khuyr, Usukh, ChIeyar, Sutar avai khuyr and Uruk. The latter, by the way, was the residence of the Albanian kings. Tukhum Varazar still lives in the village today, whose name comes from the name of the Albanian king Varaz, who loved to relax in Uruk.
Old mosque in Karakur
The remains of an ancient ceramic water pipe were found in the village. Caracure is a kind of museum under open sky. Everything here speaks of its antiquity and greatness. After all, in the Middle Ages there was Big City, an important center of South Dagestan.
Yerysow
It had at least 900 households. Given that4-5 families lived under one roof at once, it becomes obvious that it was really densely populated city. After the terrible plague epidemic of 1689, only 60 households remained in Karakyur. Nowadays, more than 1200 people live in the village.
In place of the ancient Christian temple in the 10th century, the Arabs built a mosque, which was known throughout southern Dagestan.
Carved door of the old Karakyura mosque
Unfortunately, in the winter of 2009 this unique mosque burned down. A few weeks ago, a new mosque was built with funds allocated by a native of this village, Suleiman Kerimov.
Old mosque in Karakur
The regional center of the Dokuzparinsky district is the village of Usukhvats I, located at the confluence of the Usukhvats I river of the same name with Samur. Historical chronicles testify to the events of the beginning of the 8th century that took place in this settlement.
Clouds envelop the Upper Dokuzpara
There are two versions of the origin of the village name. According to the first, the root "Usuh" is a form of the verb "Sukhun" (to stick, to stick). The fact is that the river UsukhvatsI during heavy rains pierces Samur like a bayonet.
The second version brings us back to the events that took place many centuries ago, when the Mikrakhs expelled the sons of Mukhtar Saijab, considering their lands their own. As a result, these territories, as it were, stuck between Miskindzha and Karakyure, hence the root "dry".
The first inhabitants of the modern aul were people from the neighboring village of Karakyure. Nowadays, the population district center is about 2 thousand people.
From here we went up the gorge. With each kilometer the level of height became more and more. The road ran along the Usukhvats I river. Huge stones and rocks were visible everywhere.
Kalajukh
The main occupation of the inhabitants of Dokuzpara is animal husbandry and agriculture. Sheep breeding is especially developed in the region. Large areas are occupied by cabbage, sometimes even entire slopes are planted with it. Immediately after Mikrah-Kazmayar, the first solid ascent began.
Immediately, Kalajukh opened our eyes, a village, a gorgeous view of which we observed throughout the whole way to Kurush. Kalajuh is located on the opposite bank from Mikrah. The old village was located on the top of Mount Aga-ah.
The name of the village comes from the word "Kala" - a fortress. Indeed, the old village was surrounded by powerful walls. The Kalajukhs always had a dispute with the Mikrakhs over the land, as a result of which the village was taken by the neighbors. Many residents died, there were also those who fled - villages with the same name Kala in Azerbaijan and Rutul were founded by fugitives from Kalajukh.
Feast in the village of Tekipirhyur
The modern village is a continuation of the old one, only located in the lower reaches of the historical village. The inhabitants of the village are the descendants of the tukhum Menzifar - the only tukhum who did not leave his native land; as well as numerous migrants from Mikrah and other villages.
Having passed Mikrah, after a few kilometers we entered the village of Tekipirkhur.
This is a small village, which was founded about 500 years ago by a native of Syria, Pir-Hasan, who, along with his brother Pir-Suleiman, was buried on Mount Shalbuzsuv. There is a mausoleum of Pir-Hasan in the village, there is also a ziyarat in the cemetery.
His grave is a place of pilgrimage for thousands of Muslims. Tekipirhyur is a small village, the number of households in it barely reaches 60. It is located in picturesque place at the foot of the Jerysuv and Shalbuzsuv mountains. This is the native village of Suleiman Kerimov's mother.
In Kurush
Further, behind Tekipirkhur, Kurush was already waiting for us. It should be noted that we were very unlucky with the weather there. If in UsukhvatsIe there was clear hot weather, then after Mikrakh-Kazmayar it became cloudy, in some places it was raining, because of which it was impossible to see the amazing views of the surrounding mountains.
Kurush
After a dozen kilometers of narrow serpentines, long ascents and steep cliffs, we finally reached Kurush, the highest mountain village in Europe and Russia. By God, this unique place. The people here are unique. Nature is unique. Air, plants, animals, birds - everything is unique.
Kurush children
Kurush in clear weather in summer against the backdrop of Yerysuva
Kurush is surrounded by the highest mountains of Dagestan - from the east Kichensuv and Erysuv, from the north Shalbuzsuv, from the south - Glavny Caucasian Range. The village is located on the southern slope of Shalbuzsuva, at an altitude of 2600 meters above sea level.
Children playing football in the Kurush schoolyard
From the height of the village, probably the most the best views to the mountains throughout Southern Dagestan. Yarusuv rises majestically from the east of the village. From this mountain falls down the most high waterfall Dagestan - Charaur. The height of the fall is 250 meters, and the waterfall is two-stage - the height of the first stage is 150 meters, the second - 100. The people of Kurush call it Charadur.
The air in Kurush is rarefied, through which the ultraviolet rays of the sun burn all year round. Due to the lack of oxygen, the faces of the Kurusians acquired a characteristic blush that distinguishes them from the rest of the locals.
Kurush
Since ancient times, the main occupation of the inhabitants was sheep breeding, vast alpine pastures - the only wealth of the Kurush people - contributed to this. Sheep farmers led a semi-nomadic lifestyle. Earlier, for the winter period, they drove flocks of sheep to Azerbaijan, overcoming hundreds of kilometers of roads through gorges, passes and ravines.
There are static data, according to which in 1917 there were 72 thousand sheep in the village. It was in Kurush that the mountain-Lezgin coarse-wooled breed of sheep was bred under natural conditions, the coarse wool of which is indispensable in carpet weaving.
Kurush met us with a bluish haze. As I said, because of the fog and rain, we, alas, saw almost nothing. At a distance of more than 20-30 meters, it was already impossible to make out anything. It is also worth mentioning the characteristic smell of dung, which is almost the main building material and fuel here. There were practically no people on the street. Only restless children played football in the school yard.
After walking around the village for a bit, we didn't really go deep. We took a few shots and moved in the opposite direction.
That day we decided to stay overnight at Rahman's house in Mikrah. This is a fairly large village located on the left bank of the UsukhvatsI opposite Kalajukh. This region is rich in arable land, hay meadows and extensive pastures. There are many springs and streams here.
mikrah
From four sides the village is surrounded by majestic mountains - Kichensuv; Yerysow; Nisinsuv (Midday Mountain); Ekunsuv (Morning Mountain); Shalbuzsuv and Gestinkiel.
We have committed a little walk around the village. Rahman works as a teacher in a rural school, so he knows the history of his native village well.
According to folk etymology, the name "Mikrakh" comes from the words "mug" and "rag" (nest of the sun). The fact is that when the sun rises from behind the mountains on the eastern side, it hits with its rays immediately into the village, i.e. as if in a niche, in a nest. Hence "mugrag >> mikrakh".
Mikrakh is one of the largest carpet-making centers in Dagestan, Mikrakh carpets are distinguished by their quality and unique design, local carpet makers are distinguished by the art of quick work.
Tekipirhyur
This is a very ancient village. In 1994, local residents celebrated the 5000th anniversary of the village. However, the figure is, of course, overestimated. The first mention of Micrah dates back to the 2nd century AD. Numerous cemeteries, whose area is more than 20 hectares, also testify to the antiquity of the village.
Ancient tombs of Mikrah
In the Middle Ages, Mikrach was a city that was a craft, trade and cultural center region. During the early Middle Ages, Mikrah was a stronghold of the Khazars for many years and the city did not accept Islam, providing fierce resistance to the Arabs. However, the combined forces of the Arabs and Akhtyns took the village by force.
In a later period, the aul was completely restored, expanded and regained its former importance. In 1630 it became the administrative center of the newly formed Altypar society. In the 19th century, Mikrakh was the administrative center of the Dokuzparinsky district of the Samur district.
Rahman showed us the local ziyarat. As well as numerous Christian graves that can be seen everywhere. Almost every stone or slab speaks about the antiquity of the village here.
The modern village looks rather poor and faded. There are many dilapidated houses in which people still live. There is no normal road, poor communication. From Mikrah, Kalajukh is clearly visible, which is within easy reach from there. At night in Kalajukh there was a dem (wedding dance party), the music was heard as if the wedding was played in Mikrah.
mikrah
Rahman's house is located in the upper part of the village, from its veranda there is a stunning view of Nesinsuv and Kichensuv. Rahman's grandmother welcomed us cordially. Our evening passed in conversations and discussion of what we saw.
FLNKA
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The road to the mountain village was rocky and unimportant, we had to crawl at a snail's pace. I wanted to sleep, but only a professional can fall asleep on such potholes. Niva roared and went strained, mostly in first gear, the second was not enough. Apparently, the left 92nd gasoline, which we poured in Akhty, had an effect. Anton turned on the lowering gear. He stared ahead intently and weaved between scattered stones and bumps, shifting gears up and down every now and then, as if churning butter. It drizzled rain. Sasha russo reported that the oil temperature in the box went up in the Trailblazer. Now both cars switched to lower gears and crawled further along the winding Caucasian serpentine.
We drove into the clouds and quickly darkened. Visibility dropped to 10 meters, it became noticeably cooler, and the Trailblazer began to cool down. The only navigator who still understood where we were reported that only 20 kilometers remained to the village. It's about an hour and a half walk. We did not meet a single oncoming car for the entire climb.
The village was already asleep when two dirty cars, loudly noisy with engine cooling fans, like out of breath travelers, climbed to the first houses of Kurush - at the same time the highest mountain locality Caucasus and all of Europe, as well as the southernmost settlement Russian Federation. The village is located on the border with Azerbaijan on the southeastern slope of the Shalbuzdag mountain, in the Usukhchayna river valley at an altitude of about 2600 meters.
1. The village is already over 2000 years old, although no one knows exactly when the first inhabitants appeared here. But it is known that the first road to the village appeared in the 60s. Until that time, only their own legs and horses were the main transport. Today, "down" can be reached by minibus, which runs every two days in winter, and every day in summer. A ticket to Derbent costs 300 rubles. Travel time is three hours.
2. The harsh climate does not allow farming, despite the fact that the land in these parts is fertile. The maximum that is possible is to collect a small crop of potatoes during the warm summer, and then, only for ourselves, not for sale. Therefore, everyone lives only by animal husbandry and is fully self-sufficient. Everything goes into business: milk, meat, wool, even dung.
3. In almost every area, like frozen mammoths, there are huge haystacks. Winters are long...
Sometimes, in cold winters, the water flowing through the pipes from the Shalbuzdag mountain freezes and then you have to wait until spring. All winter run with buckets to the spring.
4. Life in the mountain villages is a paradise for asthmatics. The purest rarefied mountain air with light notes of burnt dung. What could be better?
5. You can wake up in the morning in fog and not see anything, or vice versa, in sunny weather, admire the kilometer-long wall of Mount Erydag. At the time of the Union, Kurush was very popular among tourists and climbers. There are far fewer visitors now.
6. Due to the fact that cattle are kept in the village, the streets are dirty. It is better not to go out without boots after rain. In general, everything is like in an ordinary Ryazan village, only with four-thousanders in the background.
7. In the center of the frame, Mount Bazarduzu is the highest mountain in Dagestan and Azerbaijan (4466 meters). The state border runs along its ridge.
Translated from Turkic, Bazarduzu means "market square", more precisely, as a specific landmark - "turn to the market, bazaar." The fact is that in ancient times and the Middle Ages in the Shakhnabad valley, located east of this peak, annual large fairs were held, where merchants and buyers from many countries came. From afar, on the way to the fairs, the main landmark " market square”, “turn to the market” - Bazarduzu.
It was a dialogue from the Middle Ages.
- Excuse me, but how to get to the market?
- Up the mountain, and to the left.
A lot of relatives remained on the other side of the pass. They are also Lezgins, but they live in Azerbaijan. To visit - the road takes a whole day. Now just so few people go. Only for a big holiday, wedding or funeral. To cross the border you need a passport. And at the border itself, you can spend up to 8 hours standing in lines.
8. Talking about life in the mountains, one cannot but talk about food. No wonder they say that the most dangerous thing that can happen in Dagestan is being fed to death. Oh, this trip was real food terrorism! We have never eaten so much. Why are there delicious and always different (depending on the area) Khinkal!
Khinkal should not be confused with Georgian khinkali, which is a significantly different type of dish. Digastani khinkal is pieces of dough boiled in meat broth (actually “khinkalins”), served with broth, boiled meat and sauce.
9. And this is Miracle, a dish for a large solemn feast, also a national dish of the peoples of Dagestan. This is a kind of thin pie, which is made from unleavened dough with a variety of fillings. The dough is rolled out as thin as possible. The main taste is created by the filling, it can be meat, potato, with cheese and herbs, or just vegetable. After baking, the miracle is necessarily lubricated with oil, so they become more fragrant and tender.
10. And this is a school "cake". In one of the mountain villages, we went to a local school, where they prepare their own bread for children in the canteen. Do not carry it out of the city every day.
13. In many mountain villages there is no concept of streets, alleys or driveways. All the more so there are no avenues and highways. Sometimes even houses do not have their own numbers. The postman and the district police officer know all the residents by their first and last names.
14. “Our ancestors rose so high that no one would touch them. The Dagestan mountains are harsh. Not everyone will go to them. So they went away from the endless wars and devastation. - says Bashirov Tagi Aslanovich, the head of the village of Kurush.
18. Sometimes a neighboring village speaks its own language and communication with neighbors takes place only in Russian. How versatile English language in Europe, so the Russian language in Dagestan.
21. Cakes of dung on the wall of the house. It is both fuel and insulation at the same time.
27. Young girls are afraid of photographers like fire.
28. Guys, on the contrary, pose with pleasure.
29. Mathematics class.
31. Headmaster.
“Almost all young people are leaving. Many go to Derbent and Makhachkala, some go to Russia. Many are sent to serve under a contract, it is profitable. Young people are just bored here.
33. A series of photographs "Sasha is walking."
36. It's almost like Tibet, but only Russia. And they speak Russian here.