Journey through the Baltic countries. What you need to know for a trip by car to the Baltic States
To get acquainted with the Baltics, you need to visit all three countries: Latvia, Lithuania and Estonia. Some of you will say that the Baltics are not only the above countries, but we will only deal with them. First of all, we will visit three capitals: Riga, Vilnius and Tallinn. It is advisable to visit them in the same weather and with the same mood, so that nothing prevents you from comparing these three cities. Do not listen to anyone who says that this or that is more beautiful or more interesting. They are all interesting, beautiful and in general everyone has their own opinion. I have been to the Baltic States several times, I liked something more, so I tried to include something in the route. The itinerary is designed in such a way that you can do it in a week. So: St. Petersburg - Tallinn - Cesis - Sigulda - Riga - Bauska - Siauliai - Kaunas - Vilnius - Daugavpils - Rezekne - St. Petersburg. These are the key points, now in more detail:
St. Petersburg – Tallinn
I will not dwell on the preparation of the machine, documents, etc. You can't predict everything. True, recently, I take at least two navigators on the road. I trust booking.com more and more and, if possible, I return to cash. Do not forget that it is difficult to cross the Estonian border back and you have to buy a queue, so we return through Latvia.
The distance from St. Petersburg to Tallinn is 362 kilometers and the estimated travel time is about 5 hours, not counting the time spent at customs. It is best to move around while everyone is sleeping, so we leave for an hour at 4 in the morning. We will be at the border around 6, and there we will be lucky. For a sufficient acquaintance with the Old Town of Tallinn, 4 hours are needed. For those who like to slow down this time is not enough.
Car parks near the Old City cost 3-4 euros per hour, there are cheaper ones nearby, but it is not a fact that they will have free places. If we compare hotel prices in all three capitals, then Tallinn and Riga are approximately the same, but Vilnius is cheaper, but no worse.
For me, Tallinn is always different, in terms of impact. Sometimes I admire him, and sometimes he is boring to me, apparently it depends on the mood, mood and company. In the "Old City" in addition to the main attractions, such as:
City Hall
The Dome Cathedral
Church of Oleviste
Church of Niguliste
Cathedral of Alexander Nevsky
Fortress towers and walls
Church of Jaani
… there are many beautiful and back streets, nooks and yards. There are several observation decks that offer great views of the city. Lots of shops and interesting cafes. The architecture here is very different, different eras, styles and "nationalities".
I will never forget my first visit to Tallinn. It was on New Year's Eve 2007, when they started trying to ride tourists Helsinki-Stockholm-Tallinn. The first sign was the passenger ship Vana-Tallin, that is, "Old Tallinn", not to be confused with the drink of the same name. And, by the way, it justified its name - it was built in 1974. That year there was no winter and no ice either. In Helsinki on January 1 it was +6, and in Stockholm +8. When we were going from Helsinki to Stockholm, we got into a terrible storm and people, remembering this night, already leaving Stockholm for Tallinn, “got hard” to fall asleep and not hang out on the decks, clinging to everything that is possible and to each other. We arrived in Tallinn all a little wrinkled, but in anticipation of new experiences. We were given buses, guides and some time to explore the city. We gathered for a whole hour and waited for latecomers, then rode all over Tallinn and listened to the guide, who did not really hide her hatred for everything Russian. Having dropped us off at the walls of the "Old City" and handed us to another guide, she left with the bus. The first words of the "new" tour guide were: "Forget everything she said", "now let's run, we don't have much time." We did not seem to be lagging behind, but at the next turn the guide disappeared. It's been 15 minutes since the tour started. There were half a group of us like that, we spat and each went his own way. It was dank, damp, cold and windy outside. Only in the evening, when the garlands were lit and the wind subsided, it became better, warmer and much more beautiful. Here they were - first impressions.
If you are not going to visit a pub in the evening or just look at night city, then you can stop for the night on the road towards Riga. I stayed at Ruunawere Hotel, not far from Tallinn, I really liked it. There is a small sketch about the hotel in the "Video" section. At all interesting places Lots of accommodation for the night: farmsteads; guest houses; cottages, etc. If you're planning a trip 21 days in advance or earlier, you can get exclusive deals on hotel reservations, but you probably know that. If you plan to stay in the city, I advise Kalev Spa Hotel & Waterpark. Convenient, cozy, next to the "Old Town", a good restaurant and after long walks you can lie in the jacuzzi, relax your muscles or swim.
Cesis-Sigulda
From Tallinn to Cesis (Sigulda) about 300 kilometers. By the time of 4 hours. You can go in three ways, but the easiest way is through Pärnu. After Pärnu, the road goes along the coast, and if it's summer outside, you can turn to the sea and swim and sunbathe. Rest in one word. The main sights of Sigulda and Cesis cannot be seen in one day, even briefly, so expect to spend the night somewhere. Both of these cities are approximately the same distance from Riga, Sigulda is a little closer, where you stay does not play a special role.
In the area of these two cities, the real focus medieval castles, various attractions, there is something to see and do. The inhabitants of Riga also think so, so it can be crowded here on weekends. Draw your own conclusions.
Let's start with Cesis. Here is the largest in Latvia and well-preserved…
Cessian (Venden) Castle
A beautiful park at the foot of the castle, conducive to a leisurely stroll and relaxation. The castle itself is no different, it's just interesting to touch the history, take the likeness of an old lantern and walk along the dark stairs and nooks and crannies. Near the old castle is
New Cesian Castle
There are now ticket offices, as well as museums of history and art. Almost close to these castles is located
Church of Saint John
This majestic building is the largest church in Latvia, built outside of Riga (XIII century). It belonged to the Livonian Order.
In addition to the main attractions, it is very pleasant to walk around the block of wooden buildings here. Nice houses that have seen a lot interesting stories, provide an opportunity to take a break from the "stone jungle" of big cities.
Not far from Cēsis there is another attraction local region, so-called
Araisi Lake Castle
Here, in the 19th-11th centuries, the Latgalians lived. A fairly large area for a walk, where you can get acquainted with the ancient way of life and buildings, the ruins of the Araisi order castle and the lake settlement.
Here are the must-sees in the area:
Turaida Castle
Old Sigulda Castle
New Sigulda Castle
Of course, besides the castles, there is much more to do here. Huge park, zoos, cable cars, caves, etc. Work in winter ski slopes. Here is one of the best bobsleigh tracks.
In these parts, I stayed in only one hotel - Hotel Atputa, it is located in Cesis. Quiet, comfortable hotel, good restaurant, friendly service.
Riga
It takes less than an hour to drive from Sigulda to Riga. As soon as I enter Riga, I cannot get rid of the feeling that I am driving along the outskirts of St. Petersburg. The building of the Latvian Academy completes the image of a large Soviet city. Only in the "Old City" do you come to your senses and return to the tourist skin. It is better to park the car on the side of the embankment. Before I forget, the police in Latvia are the same as in Russia. They like to check for alcohol, set up an ambush, "pay off on the spot." If something is written in Latvian on the parking signs, it is better not to stop there, you will be fined. Alcohol: Estonia (0.2 pr), Latvia (0.5 pr), Lithuania (0.4 pr). I wish not to get caught.
Riga is different! Different than Tallinn. Firstly, there is no height difference here, and therefore everything is, as it were, on the same plane, along the Daugava embankment. By the way, be sure to visit the other side of the river, from where a beautiful panorama of the "Old City" opens up. All attractions are quite tightly arranged. In order to see absolutely the entire “Old City”, you will often go to places that you have already seen. This is not "running in a circle", but somewhere nearby. The architecture of Tallinn is diverse and multinational, and in Riga a certain style is sustained.
I have long noticed that tourists equally like both large, huge churches or castles, and very small, even tiny "mulks", such as the St. Petersburg "Chizhik-Pyzhik". And everywhere, in any city in the world, the reaction to them is the same. It is necessary to pat or toss a coin, and, of course, take a picture. One of these Riga “muleks” is the monument to the Bremen Town Musicians, almost a copy of the same one located in hometown. Here, the program of the attraction also includes bouncing. Everyone is trying to stroke the animal, which is higher. Walking through Old Riga, you will see unusual figures and installations more than once.
The Bremen Town Musicians
Now, let's go over the main attractions of the "Old City"
House of the Blackheads
The Dome Cathedral
Church of St. Peter and panoramas from the observation deck.
Town Hall and Town Hall Square
Riga castle
Church of Our Lady of Sorrows
In Soviet times, as soon as it was necessary to show "abroad", all film studios went to Riga, here every house, every intersection was used as scenery. “Sherlock Holmes and Dr. Watson” lived here, the spy passions of “Seventeen Moments of Spring” were played out, they sang the songs “D" Artagnan and the Three Musketeers "
At the expense of having a bite to eat in Riga, the choice is huge and the price tags are already quite democratic. If you have heard about LIDO, then I would not recommend visiting it in the "Old Town", you can spoil the impression, it is better to go to the LIDO Recreation Center on Krasta Street 76. The food is excellent, tasty and not expensive.
LIDO
For tourists with children, I advise you to see the Riga Zoo and its guests. In general, Riga a beautiful city and I think you will want to come here more than once, to see not only it, but also the surroundings, such as, for example, Jurmala, Jaunmokas Castle, the Daugava Museum. Or spend a summer night in the streets and pubs of the "Old Town" that never sleeps.
Bauska Rundale Palace
If you have already looked at everything in Riga and are not going to stop for the night, you can go towards the town of Bauska. More precisely, our goal is the Rundāle Palace. It takes about an hour to drive, and I can recommend the Hotel Rundale. It is very advantageously located just 250 meters from the palace itself.
The town of Bauska is not at all big, but there are many interesting places here. There are churches, old quarters, Bauska Castle. Delicious Latvian beer is brewed here. On the Town Hall Square you can sit well and tasty in a cafe. But due to the fact that we visited this city only for the sake of the Rundale Palace, we will go there.
The palace belonged to Duke Ernst Johann Biron. It was built in 1740. In the same year, Biron, after a coup d'état, was arrested and exiled, returning only in 1763. Then, by 1768, Rastrelli completed the interior decoration of the premises.
The palace impresses with its sophistication of interiors and richness of decoration. Unfortunately I was there winter time, and I did not manage to see the splendor of the flowering French park, spread over an area of 10 hectares, closed on all sides by a canal, behind which, in turn, a hunting park extends.
I am constantly doing something in the palace, restoring, decorating, caring for, restoring, even clothes. Everything shines with cleanliness and you can feel the love with which local workers treat the exhibits. The palace and its decoration left an indelible impression in my memory. I will definitely come in the summer to take a walk in the garden and park.
Cross Mountain. Siauliai
Frenkel Palace
Now we are heading towards Lithuania, more precisely, towards the city of Siauliai. A little before reaching the city, we make an obligatory stop at the Cross Hill or the Hill of Crosses. This is one of the most unexpected sights of the entire route. Honestly, I did not know what to expect, but I had heard a lot and was ready to be surprised, but not so much. Crosses from all over the world are really brought here and this is really a Mountain of crosses.
The place is shrouded in legends. Under the Soviet regime, it was destroyed 4 times, but the Mountain has not gone away, and there are more and more crosses. Even the Pope "marked" himself here with a rather impressive cross. Our crosses, like droplets of water, melted in a sea of huge waves of crosses.
Even if this place initially did not carry any energy load, then the millions of prayers and aspirations that came here saturated this place with faith. There are no restrictions, orders, statutes, which are so loved in churches of various denominations, here a person is alone - on-one with his feelings, with God.
The next point of our trip will be the city of Siauliai. We were passing through there, stopped for a bite to eat, stroll along the pedestrian street, go to Cathedral. The weather was disgusting, and we were in a hurry towards Kaunas, so I can’t say anything special about this town. There was an attempt to visit the museum of cats, but, only sticking their nose in there, they decided not to waste time.
Now let's go to one of the most beautiful cities The Baltic States - Kaunas, it is called so - "Beautiful". And there is no doubt that it is necessary to stay there for the night.
Kaunas
It often happens that people go to the capitals, and nearby cities, in which there is no less interesting, pass by. Kaunas does not complain about the lack of tourists, but unfairly fewer people go there than to Vilnius and Trakai. Kaunas is great. IMHO of course, but even the weather did not stop me from just falling in love with this city.
The "Old Town" of Vilnius is large, spacious, mostly pedestrian, under the protection of UNESCO. I really enjoyed walking slowly along the main streets and squares, but there are a lot of people there, but if you turn somewhere to the side, after a couple of minutes it becomes just deserted and you can get lost. I parked my car in one of the parking lots in the southern part of the "Old City", put a mark in the navigator, relying on technology, and went on a reckless study, instead of taking chalk and leaving marks on houses and sidewalks. Lost. And parking is paid and by the hour, the fines are large, unpleasant. The conclusion is that it is necessary to park the car in the northern part, where the Castle Hill and Gedemin's tower are. If this landmark falls out of your sight, people will help. And I couldn’t even explain to passers-by where my car was “next to a church or church.” Yes, they are here .... Now, with the advent of new gadgets and applications, it has become much easier.
What interesting things can be seen in the "Old City"?
Church of St. Casemir
Presidential palace
Cathedral of St. Nicholas
Church of St. Paraskeva (Pyatnitskaya Church)
Cathedral
sharp brama
Bernardine Church and Church of St. Anne
In addition, there is also: the tower of Gedemin, the church of St. Teresa, Church of the Holy Spirit, Church of the Holy Trinity, Bastion of the Vilnius defensive wall, Church of St. John, Church of St. Michael, Church of St. Anna, Church of St. Ignatius and the Jesuit Monastery, Alumnat, St. Catherine, Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin mary, church of st. Nicholas, etc., etc. This is not all, and this is only in the "Old City" itself. Now can you imagine how difficult it was to find the right church, church or temple?
One of the most pleasant impressions is the prices. In cafes, restaurants, hotels, etc. Even in the business center, even in the "Old City" there are many places where you can have a pleasant evening, night and the rest of the day. We ate, rested, ate some more and went on our way. Now in reverse side, home. The intermediate point will be Daugavpils and there you can spend the night or see the city and drive to the small town of Rezekne and stay there.
Daugavpils-Rezekne
Daugavpils is the very city in which I was once again convinced how much the weather affects the perception, the first impression, and, finally, the photograph. The first time I was there in terrible, vile, dirty weather, passing through, and the second time - great weather, warm, in no hurry, lovely hotel, leisurely promenade. Earth and sky. Great town, beautiful, interesting. The main attraction, or rather the "mountain of attractions" is the "church hill". Here, literally meters from each other, there are four temples of different faiths.
Cathedral of Martin Luther
Roman Catholic Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary
Daugavpils Orthodox Cathedral of Saint Princes Boris and Gleb
Novosretensky Church of the Resurrection, the Nativity of the Virgin and St. Nicholas (Old Believer)
In the city itself there is a small pedestrian street where you can just walk around and look around. There is a fortress here, it is a certain symbol of the city. In terms of accommodation, I can recommend the Park Hotel Latgola, it is located in the center, modern, not expensive, there are often special offers (double standard - 2000 rubles), a panorama of the city opens from the upper floors. If you are unlucky with the weather, then it is better to leave the tour of this city for another time, and go towards the town of Rezekne yourself and stop to rest there.
To view information about Rezekne or Daugavpils (any other object), click on the name. We stopped in Rezekne just to rest before the last drive home. We walked, sat well in the restaurant of our hotel Kolonna Hotel Rezekne, and got up early (at 4 am), taking the “breakfast to go”, pre-ordered at the hotel, set off towards the border.
From Daugavpils to the border 2 hours, from Rezekne 40 minutes. Arriving at the border around 5 in the morning, we found a really sleeping customs, we had to wake up to let them through. A nightmare, they could “leak” unnoticed and take out the entire Baltic. That's basically it. The route, as you understand, is easily changed, for example, you can organize everything with a mirror opposite. And from Tallinn go to Helsinki. 2-3 hours by ferry and you are in the capital of Finland. And there is already the whole of Scandinavia in front of us.
I have a “Planner” on my website in the tourist section, where you can view the route and description, calculate mileage, fuel and estimate time. I wish you a good time in the Baltics. Get new impressions and just have a good rest.
- this time the girl shares a ready-made travel plan for Latvia. Wandering around Riga and lying on the beach in Jurmala is a great program, but are you sure that you will learn a lot about the country from such a trip? Castles, waterfalls, lighthouses, gingerbread towns - where else to go and what to see in Latvia - Masha's word.
Why Latvia?
Latvia became the first European country A trip I planned entirely myself. We wanted to go to Europe, but we were limited in money and time - only ten days, so the choice fell on the Baltic countries. Initially, we were going to go around Latvia, Lithuania and Estonia, hitchhiking between them, but buy bus tickets to one of the countries - to make it easier to get a visa. The cheapest flights were to Latvia - and the fate of the trip was decided.
Now I can say that Latvia is an ideal country for those who want to travel to Europe for the first time, but are afraid of the language barrier and do not want to spend a lot of money. But also experienced travelers here it will be interesting. Alas, Latvia is often underestimated. Our compatriots and neighbors often perceive it as an intermediate point on the way to the "real Europe". Europeans, on the contrary, go there to take a look at the post-communist country. But do not think that having wandered through the streets of Riga before a low-cost flight or lying on the beach of Jurmala, you really saw Latvia.
I got the impression that this country is seriously investing in the development of tourism. I would describe it with an English proverb: "If you can" t have the best make the best of what you have "(" If you can't have the best, make the best of what you have "). There is not so much world famous monuments architecture, impressive natural sights or places with a very ancient history- so, only two places from Latvia are included in the UNESCO list. But in every more or less attractive city an information center is equipped, and twenty Latvian beaches have been awarded the Blue Flag (a sign of quality and suitability for safe swimming). Everything even a little interesting is turned into a sight here: from the ruined forts to the telescope of the radio astronomy center. Looking at such a careful attitude to their history, I would like to express respect to the Latvians and even envy them a little.
“Everything even a little interesting is turned into a sight here: from the destroyed forts to the telescope of the radio astronomy center”
How to get there?
We traveled to Riga from Moscow by bus Lux Express for € 35 per person. We took a return ticket to St. Petersburg for € 17.5. Ecolines are also transported to Latvia from both cities. If you plan your trip in advance, you can save money. So, the minimum price of a LuxExpress ticket from St. Petersburg to Riga is about € 13. Trains also run from Russia to Latvia: branded train"Latvia-express" from Moscow to Riga costs from € 40.5, a regular one from St. Petersburg - from € 37.5. Travel time in both cases is a little over 16 hours.
You can also get from Minsk to Riga by bus. The state carrier Minsktrans will take you to Latvia for € 14.5. There are also offers from private companies: LuxExpress runs once a day, the ticket price is from € 10, Ecolines has several flights, the price is € 23.8. Don't forget about youth and student discounts!
Ecolies travels from Kyiv to Riga, but the journey will not be close - as much as 30 hours on the way. A one-way ticket will cost € 50. It will be much faster and easier to fly on airBaltic - about 2 hours on the road and about € 100 per ticket.
Housing
In ten days in Latvia, we did not spend a single cent on accommodation thanks to couchsurfing. Finding a host in Riga is not difficult: the site has more than 700 users from this city who are ready to host guests. In others settlements the situation is different: in the second largest Daugavpils, the population is seven times less than in Riga, in the third largest Liepaja - nine times less. The cities we visited usually had no more than ten active hosts - so I advise you to contact them in advance. We managed to find a "couch" in Riga, Liepaja and Kuldiga, a couple of times we spent the night in a tent.
Housing prices in the Latvian capital are pleasing: a night in a hostel starts from € 5. In other cities, everything is not so pleasant: the cheapest option from Booking in Ventspils is from € 10, in Liepaja - from € 12, in Kuldiga - from € 19, and in Cēsis - from € 25. If you prefer to explore the country at a dynamic pace and want to save money, you can, like us, make Riga a transit point. The distances in the country are very small: if you wish, you can move out of the capital in the early morning, inspect some city and return at night.
Transport
We traveled around Latvia on a ride. According to our host from Liepaja, who traveled around sixty countries in this way, hitchhiking in his homeland is one of the best in the world. I would not give such a high rating, but I confirm that hitchhiking around the country is convenient and fast. The average waiting time for our couple was about 10 minutes, the maximum was an hour. It was a pleasant surprise that many drivers are willing to spend a little time and gasoline to get you straight to your destination. Once the driver not only drove us an extra fifteen kilometers to the point where the not very popular road led, but also left a goodbye phone number so that we would contact him if we could not catch anyone on the way back.
In addition to hitchhiking, we tried intercity trains - we drove from Riga to Sigulda (about 50 kilometers). The ticket costs €1.9. We were driven by a quite comfortable, albeit slightly painted, train. You can check the schedule and routes on the company's website Pasažieru vilciens (PV).
There are buses that go to places that cannot be reached by train. A ticket from Riga to Sigulda costs €2.75, to Ventspils €7.55, from Liepaja to Kuldiga €3.85. Check the schedule and prices, and on a separate portal you can buy tickets online, but with a surcharge.
National cuisine
Latvians love rye bread. So strong that it is not only eaten, but also added to various dishes. For example, here you can try bread ice cream or bread yogurt with prunes. And also bread soup, which, oddly enough, is not eaten first, but as a dessert. It is prepared from dried fruits and bread itself and seasoned with cream. Another local dish is made from rye flour - sklandrausis - an open pie stuffed with vegetables (usually boiled potatoes and carrots mixed with egg and poured with sour cream).
As a main dish, I recommend gray peas, which are cooked with onions and smoked cracklings. And for dessert, taste the cake "Old Riga" (Vetsriga) with curd cream.
Most Latvian dishes can be tasted at the restaurant Lido, and we bought Old Riga cakes and bread yoghurts in supermarkets.
Language
There is practically no language barrier in Latvia: as a rule, the younger generation speaks English, the older one speaks Russian. Of all the drivers who gave us a lift, we had to communicate in English with only one - a Dutchman.
Only once we had difficulties with communication. In Kuldiga, we wandered into a working canteen, which by some miracle got into the guidebook. Only locals dined in it, the menu, like from a school cafeteria, hung on the wall and was only in Latvian, and food was served from huge pots and basins, so there was not even a chance to understand what was there. I addressed the woman at the distribution in Russian, and she answered in Latvian. I repeated my question in English - and then she switched to Russian.
The situation with the language in the country is closely related to the historical context. After the collapse of the USSR, only 2/3 of the country's population received Latvian citizenship - citizens of the pre-war Republic of Latvia and their descendants. The rest - mostly Russians, as well as Belarusians, Ukrainians, Lithuanians, Poles and a number of other peoples living in Latvia - received the status of "non-citizen". In 2013, there were about 80 differences in rights between citizens and non-citizens: for example, the latter cannot take part in elections, hold a number of positions, and there are economic and other restrictions for them. To obtain the status of a citizen, it is required to go through the “naturalization” procedure: take an oath of allegiance to the country, pay a fee, pass an exam in knowledge of the Latvian language, constitution, anthem and history. At the same time, back in the 1990s, Russian ceased to be the state language.
On this moment a little more than 10% of people who have not received citizenship still live in the country: someone considers the procedure itself unfair, someone is not ready to pay a fee, someone does not know the language sufficiently to pass the exam. However, not all Latvians like the fact that people in their country do not want to master official language and speak it. According to a 2005 study, 47% of Latvians believed that the interests of Russian speakers in the country were taken into account even more than they should. 68% of Russian-speakers, on the contrary, believed that their rights were infringed. To this day, relations between the two nations within the country are slightly electrified.
Route
IN visa application center In Latvia, we were provided with a couple of guidebooks, I also found a lot of information on the official Latvian tourism portal. Initially, I wanted to fit all the Baltic countries into a ten-day trip, but after studying a dozen booklets and websites, I realized that there was simply not enough time for Lithuania and Estonia.
I marked points of interest to us on the map, and a route emerged: arrival in Riga, exploring the country to the east of it, then to the west, and finally returning to the Latvian capital again, from where the bus went home.
Riga and Jurmala
Riga was the first European capital I visited. Everything delighted me: organ music from churches, paving stones and tiled roofs, prices in euros… But no, these ones, rather, upset me. I went through a bunch of guidebooks and didn't want to miss a single point recommended there. I enthusiastically wandered around Town Hall Square, tried to fit in the frame the houses pressed close to each other, called the Three Brothers, and looked out for black cats on the roof of the house, the owner of which, in retaliation for the elder who did not accept him into the merchant guild, turned the sculptures with the fifth point to his window. However, Riga has already been written in detail in.
Of the places not mentioned there, I would recommend Latvian Ethnographic Open Air Museum (Brīvdabas iela 21), where more than a hundred old wooden buildings were brought from all over the country. During the warm season (May to September) admission for adults costs € 4, for full-time students - € 2; in cold weather (from November to April) - € 2 and € 1.4, respectively. IN summer time artisans demonstrate their skills on the territory of the museum. We spent almost half a day on a walk and had an inexpensive lunch in a tavern in the park.
“Everything delighted me: organ music from churches, paving stones and tiled roofs, prices in euros ... Although no, these were more likely to upset”
I also recommend you go inside. Latvian National Library(Mūkusalas iela 3). Although many locals consider her ugly, she looks quite pretty inside. You can see the building along with a tour in Russian, which is booked by phone on weekdays and costs € 2. I walked around the library for free with our host, seeing from the 1st to the 8th floors. The library website says that on Sunday, the 11th and 12th floors are also available for visitors.
We visited Jurmala on the eve of departure, and it seemed to us rather boring from a sightseeing point of view, although there are more than a hundred monuments of wooden architecture here. state significance. However, it is well suited for resort holiday: a third of the Blue Flag beaches in Latvia are concentrated here, and the total length of the landscaped coastline- 26 kilometers.
Sigulda
We went to Sigulda for the sake of castles, of which there are as many as three: medieval Turaida, destroyed Krimulda and more modern Sigulda Palace. Half a day will be enough for a leisurely walk between them, while you will admire the views of the Gauja River valley and will be able to appreciate several objects that are unique for Latvia.
First, this Gutman cave (57.176235, 24.842062) 18.8 meters deep, 12 meters wide and 10 meters high. Those who are fond of speleology or have just been in caves, such dimensions are hardly impressive, but this is the largest cave in the Baltic countries. Secondly, to Krimulda Castle from opposite side rivers can be reached on the only one in the country cable car. The views are magnificent, but the price for a 7-minute journey is unreasonably high - € 8 one way. You can bungee jump directly from the tram booth, but the pleasure is even more expensive - € 60.
For fans of extreme sports, there are other entertainments in Sigulda: for example, a 1200-meter long luge and bobsleigh track and an obstacle course at a height of 20 meters in the largest adventure park in the Baltics Tarzāns.
Cesis
Cēsis is one of the oldest cities in Latvia, over 800 years old. Its main attraction is the largest in the country Castle of the Livonian Order, which is also called Vendensky, by the name of the people who lived in these places.
For the entrance to the Cesis Castle in the summer season (from May to September) you need to pay € 4 (for schoolchildren and students - € 2.5), in the winter (from October to April) - € 3 (€ 1.5). To visit the museum in the new castle, you will have to pay an extra € 2 (for schoolchildren and students - € 1). We bought a full ticket, but came to the conclusion that it was possible to limit ourselves to the castle.
I not only climbed the entire building, going down to the prisoner's dungeon, but also watched the work of blacksmiths, learned about medieval cuisine from the gardener and took part in the entertainment of that time - I practiced fencing with a wooden sword and took a dozen steps on stilts. When walking through the castle park, I advise you to find a wooden "box" where the dismantled monument to Lenin lies, which used to stand on the main square of the city.
Liepaja
This seaside town in western Latvia boasts the largest mechanical organ in the world and the third largest port in the country. Today, the harbor is used only for trade, but earlier a third of the city was occupied by a military port - in Latvian "Karosta".
The construction of the largest naval military base in the Russian Empire began here at the end of the 19th century. From here in 1905 Russian fleet went to Pacific Ocean to participate in the Russo-Japanese War. But the place for the base was initially chosen unsuccessfully - only 40 kilometers from the border with a potential enemy, Germany. Soon the First World War began, and all the fortifications were destroyed by order of the commander of the Baltic Fleet - fearing that they would go to the enemy, they were never used. The blown-up forts have survived to this day and are popular with tourists.
In the Soviet years, submariners were based here, and Karosta became a closed military town. Now, anyone can visit this area and admire the architectural contrasts - imperial buildings and typical Soviet houses, abandoned, unfinished or inhabited. We wandered here to visit museum-prison "Karosta" (Invalidu iela 4). On the official website, this place is positioned as "the only prison in Europe open to tourists", "from which no one escaped." But this does not indicate the security or scale of the structure: in fact, this is a cunning publicity stunt. From tsarist times until the end of the last century, there was not a prison here, but a guardhouse, where military personnel served disciplinary punishments. The maximum term of imprisonment did not exceed a month, so there was no point in running away.
The guardhouse managed to serve the Russian Empire, Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union, and after it was abandoned, local enthusiasts decided to turn the building into a museum. The admiration for how efficiently and creatively Latvians use the opportunities they have to attract tourists came to me for the first time here. For € 5 you can visit a regular tour, where they will take you through the cells and tell you about the history of the place, and for € 15 you can even spend the night. Large groups by appointment can experience all the delights of prison life by participating in the show "Behind Bars". Although children are allowed on the tour, and the guide constantly cracks jokes, the guardhouse has retained its gloomy atmosphere.
Today Liepaja is the musical capital of Latvia, where the festival takes place every summer summer sound. Thanks to this, the city also has new sights - a glass concert hall"Big Amber" and the Alley of Fame of Latvian Musicians. It took us less than a day to explore all these places, despite the fact that we also managed to swim in the Baltic Sea at the marked blue flag city beach.
Kuldiga
Kuldiga is perhaps the most cozy city in Latvia from those in which I was. Only 13 thousand people live here, it can be walked from end to end in an hour, and historical Center The city is included in the national list of UNESCO. But we came here primarily for the sake of two waterfalls.
First - Alekshupit waterfall (56.969851, 21.975383) on the Alekshupite River - it looks very nice, but it is not very impressive, although with a height of 4.5 meters it has become the highest in Latvia. Second - Ventas Rumba (56.967965, 21.978900) on the Venta River - was awarded a higher title: its width from 100-110 meters to almost 280 in high water made it the widest in Europe. But don't imagine the Latvian Niagara: its maximum height- a little more than two meters, so it looks more like a river rapid than a waterfall. It is best to come here in spring or autumn to watch migrating salmon “in flight” overcome Ventas Rumba.
Ventspils
The first impression I had of Ventspils was on the way to it. The woman who gave us a lift told us about the local amusement park and its key object - the Lembergs Hat ski mountain. The mountain is notable for the fact that it was created on the site of a landfill: the waste landfill was mothballed, processed, covered with construction waste, covered with turf, planted with grass and equipped with springboards and lifts. The garbage heap, which has turned into a popular recreation area, was named after the long-term mayor of the city of Lembergs.
One of the mottos of Ventspils is “a city with a future”. Indeed, there is no sense of depressiveness and devastation familiar to the province. Progressive trends here are illustrated not only by the story of the landfill. Thus, in 2002 the city took part in the Parade of Cows, an international art event in which artists create creative sculptures of cows and exhibit them in different parts of the city. After that, the monuments are sold at auctions, and the money goes to charity. Ventspils became the first city in Eastern Europe to take part in the parade. Of the 26 cows that graced the city during the action, only six were not sold. But the parade inspired the residents and authorities of the city, and soon new cows began to appear on the streets, and in 2012 the Cow Parade was repeated again. Walking around Ventspils, you constantly come across sculptures of artiodactyls: from a fashionable cow admiring itself in the mirror, to a police cow or a cheerleading cow watching football on TV with its owner. These works of art are not only uplifting local residents but also attract tourists.
Don't let the rising exchange rate scare you. If you plan your trip well, the trip will cost you several times cheaper. I was once again convinced of this during my last trip to the Baltic countries, now I am sharing my advice with you.
1. Buses between Riga, Vilnius and Tallinn for 3 euros
Capital Cities Baltic countries connects a bunch of bus routes with cool service (toilet, heating, Wi-Fi and even free monitors).
The SimpleExpress carrier releases 5 promotional tickets for each flight exactly six months before departure. To travel Vilnius-Tallinn, Vilnius-Riga, Riga Tallinn and back for only 3 euros.
There are also permanent promotions in the bus companies LuxExpress, Ecolines, and Eurolines.
Discounts can reach 70% and a ticket for international route costs around 5 euros.
2. Discounts on railway and buses.
in Lithuanian railways there is a -15% discount when buying a round-trip ticket. Remind the cashier about this. In Latvia, travel by trains on weekdays is a quarter cheaper work time. It is better to travel between Estonian cities by SuperBus buses. A ticket costs 2 euros (cunning people indicate the price in Eureka, but you can’t get away from paying for reservations).
3. Do not overpay for travel in cities.
The fare in public transport for our money is crazy. For example, in Riga, a ticket when buying from a driver costs as much as 2 euros! However, the same ticket in the machine will cost you 1.15 euros. If you will use the transport more than 4 times in 24 hours (from the date of passing the coupon), then it is more advisable to buy a travel card for 5 euros.
In Tallinn and Vilnius, for multiple trips, you should buy a special plastic card. They cost 2 and 1.5 euros respectively. In the capital of Estonia, it can be returned (but only at the customer service center), Lithuanians do not return the money.
4. Get free maps from tourist centers.
In every center tourist information you can get a free paper map of the city, region or the whole country. As a rule, they are located on the main squares of cities, railway stations and airports. Feel free to ask the travel center staff about events taking place in the city, free museums and where to eat inexpensively but tasty.
5. Business lunches, canteens and fast food.
On weekdays at lunchtime (usually from 11 am to 3 pm), many restaurants offer set meals (or business lunches) at a significant discount. For example, in the center of Tallinn in the Karja Kelder restaurant, minced meat soup (that's how it was presented to us) and the main course (pictured) cost us only 3.7 euros.
Soviet canteens are still preserved in Vilnius. Lithuanian they will be Valgykla.
If the goal is to satisfy hunger, then in Riga fast foods you can buy a complex: a burger, french fries and cola for 2.65 euros.
6. Where is the best place to refuel?
The cheapest gasoline among the three Baltic countries is in Estonia. A liter of 95 costs a little more than a euro. Most of all you have to pay in Latvia. The difference in fuel prices between states is within 10 cents.
7. No money for the museum and parliament.
There are a number of interesting museums, where the entrance is absolutely free or the fee is purely symbolic. For example, these are money museums at the banks of Estonia and Lithuania. It's not boring here - very modern and interactive. You can even print your own money or treat yourself to a candy with bank symbols.
Also in the Baltic States there is a great opportunity to visit local parliaments. You can sign up for an excursion to the Lithuanian Seimas or the Estonian Parliament in advance.
IN art museums Tallinn has so-called "Europe environments". Quarterly admission on Wednesdays only 1 euro. Check the museum website before your trip!
Some museums have free admission with a press card. And it doesn't matter if it's Zhmerinsky Rabochiy or Forbes Ukraine. For example, in an interesting maritime museum Tallinn. Employees of other museums (including ours) also have a similar benefit.
8. Shopping from catalogs in supermarkets.
The lowest supermarkets in Lithuania. We are just crazy about their chocolate curds! Price from 0.2 euro cents. Citrus fruits - like ours. Before entering the supermarket, take a brochure with promotional prices with you. Sometimes the discount can reach 50%. Of course, everything that is cheaper is not worth taking, but in this way we bought delicious Riga sprats or a double Snickers with coffee in the IKI supermarket for 1 euro.
9. We book accommodation earlier.
We booked a hotel in Riga a couple of months in advance. In addition to the discount for early booking used the promo code on the hotel website. Won more than 10 euros. My friend used Airbnb service. Had a private room in Tallinn for 9 euros.
Whether you are an experienced traveler or your first time in Europe, you are quite capable of organizing your trip to Riga on your own. Without dwelling on the merits of the city, which we have written about many times, here are five stages of planning a trip on your own.
Planning time for a trip to Riga
Riga is a very popular city among tourists, with more than a million visitors a year, and the mayor's office plans to bring this figure up to 1.5 million tourists a year. And this is with a population of 700 thousand inhabitants, that is, there are 1.5 tourists per inhabitant of Riga.
But still, we hasten to reassure you, even during the peak periods, tourists spread around Riga and Jurmala in such a way that the city may seem deserted to Muscovites.
The best period to visit Riga is from May to August, and also during Christmas and New Year holidays. If you are planning a trip at this time, take care of booking a hotel and transport tickets 2-3 months in advance.
In the event that you prefer a calm atmosphere, then we advise you to come in the second half of April, or from September to mid-October.
The tourist flow subsides, but the weather often gives warm sunny days. Plus, hotels at this time reduce accommodation prices, so you can save up to 30-50% of the summer room rate. Below we will share the secret of how to book a hotel in Riga in the most profitable way.
Registration of an entry visa to Latvia
Latvia is part of the Schengen zone, which means that if you have a Schengen visa in your passport, then you can skip this item - the road to Riga is open to you.
If you don't have a visa, you will need to apply for one.
We have described this process in sufficient detail on our website in the section "", here you can read about required documents, the procedure for completing the questionnaire and .
Booking a hotel in Riga
Yes, we start with the hotel.
There are several reasons for this - Riga can be reached by various modes of transport, the number of flights per day alone reaches five (Aeroflot, Transaero, Utair and Airbaltic). But there is still a train, a bus, Personal car, finally. There are also a lot of hotels in Riga (about 200), however, in high season filling reaches 100%. Finally, you can refuse to book a hotel, but plane tickets are problematic.
With booking, everything is very simple, without further ado, just go to one of the on-line hotel booking services.
The risk at this stage is minimal, because no one forbids later.
We plan how we will get to Riga
We have already reviewed the most economical ways to travel, which you can read by clicking on this link ().
In our understanding, the best solution is an airplane. At perfectly reasonable prices, you don't waste a night on the train (with a mandatory wake-up at three in the morning for customs control), do not waste your nerves on crossing the border by car and do not shake in the bus for fifteen hours.
Getting ready and dreaming about the trip
The chores are left behind, it's time to plan your trip. To begin with, we are looking for guidebooks around Riga on the Internet.
It is not possible, there are sites, as well as to download to the phone? And you don’t want to buy books - carry them with you around the city later?
Well, it’s quite a reasonable desire, which we meet - on our website you can download (moreover, freely) four parts of the guide to Riga -
No copyright infringement - the guide was prepared by the site and we give you all the rights to use and distribute it! (just don't change anything in the text) The fourth part is coming out soon - "Riga - the pearl of Art Nouveau". We can promise that it will not be the last.
Finally, we have available, advice on where and how to pay for parking .. oh, it’s not good to praise yourself, so we’ll stop there and want to wish you a unforgettable vacation in the most beautiful city in the Baltics!
Hello dear readers and guests of the site. In previous posts, I promised to tell you about my recent trip to the Baltic countries (Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania), which I managed to go without planning at all.
After I managed to achieve my goal for 2012, namely to go to the Black Sea, which I described in the article "", it was decided that there was more than enough rest for the next year. However, it turned out differently...
A trip to the Baltic States (Talin - Sigulda - Riga - Jurmala - Vilnius)
At our work, the "trade union committee" organized tourist trip in the cities of the Baltic states, and only four of them were allocated for our site. Naturally, everyone wants to travel for a modest price, since half of the trip or even most of it is paid by the company. 
It is clear that I did not immediately get a ticket, because I occupy a modest position, but there are other people who are offered in the first place. But at the last moment, for unknown reasons, someone canceled the trip and then the turn came to me, of course, I did everything quickly, which was to hand over photos, money and a passport for a Schengen visa, also fill out a questionnaire and get insurance.
Since I understood that I would be gone for about a week, which means that the blog would not be updated for 10 days, since until you come to your senses after the rest, it also takes time to write an article. It was decided to write the article "" in advance, but I planned to publish it on April 13, thanks to the wordpress engine that it allows me to do this.
Estonia – sightseeing in Tallinn
Since we live in a small town called Luninets, and the bus departed from Baranovichi, we had to get to it on our favorite transport - the “diesel train”.
There we all got on the bus together and went to the city of Lida, because we had to pick up the remaining people there.
Further, as always, crossing the interstate border with Lithuania, where we had to stand for about one hour. It's good that there was not a long queue, and checking documents is always a problem certain time, especially since we entered the territory of the European Union.
Then, while I was sleeping for 9 hours, we drove through Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia. At about 10 o'clock in the morning, the beauties of the city of Tallinn appeared before us.
After breakfast at the hotel, which was served as a buffet (the food is in full view and you can eat it as much as you want), we went on a tour of Tallinn.
To tell everything where we have been, I simply do not have the patience to write, since there were a lot of places, and I took even more pictures.
First we went along the coast of the Baltic Sea, namely the Gulf of Tallinn, where we could see several famous monuments (Mermaid, Singing Stage). We looked at the Pirita area and the Olympic facilities.
But most of all I was impressed by the Baltic Sea, since it does not exist in our country at all, and we really like to contemplate unusual species outgoing water beyond the horizon.
Usually you go to the sea in the summer, but here it is quite another thing to see the sea in the winter, despite the fact that it was the middle of spring.
After it finally became cold for everyone, we went to warm ourselves on the bus and were taken to Old city, the most historical part of Tallinn.
On the way, we were greeted by Estonian youth, who walked the streets of the city and just "fooled around".
Estonians were the luckiest of all, as they had the most towers and the fortress wall that protected the city from enemies.
We visited the Town Hall Square, which is very different from our Lenin Square. Almost all cultural and mass events take place here. We also visited the largest Orthodox church - Alexander Nevsky Cathedral.
The old city is divided into Lower and Upper. If you want, you can climb observation deck and see the city from a bird's eye view.
There really is something to see in Tallinn, I was very impressed that everything was done for the convenience of the tourist. Although there is nothing to be surprised here, because tourism replenishes the city treasury.
Various souvenirs and trinkets are sold at every step. For a simple fridge magnet you will have to pay from 2 euros. In Estonia, only euros are in circulation.
Their standard of living is much better than in our Belarus, this can be seen even in the cars they drive, including law enforcement agencies.
Then, a little tired, we went to the hotel, where we still had to check in. Probably, I am very far behind civilization, but it was surprising to me that everything in the room works only from a plastic card: a door lock and a light.
If you compare their elevator with ours, it’s generally heaven and earth, after riding in ours it can definitely get sick.
After settling in, we went to look at Tallinn in the light of the moon. The town is small, but there is plenty to walk around.
A lot of bars, discos and restaurants. We sat in some bar and were even treated to homemade liquor. People are very kind and friendly, however, they speak Russian very poorly.
We did not have to resort to the services of a city type of transport, since you can get everywhere on your own two ... After an overnight stay, breakfast and check-out from the room, three hours later we were already in Latvia.
Latvia - Riga, Sigulda and Jurmala
First of all, in Latvia, we went to the city of Sigulda. It is also called the Latvian Switzerland - this is favorite place recreation for tourists and residents of Riga.
We started our tour from the Sigulda Castle, the passage to which lies through the New Castle, in other words, a palace or a manor. It is a pity that only a small part of the castle has survived to this day.
Then we went to Gutman's cave. This is one of the largest caves in Latvia, from the base of which flows a source of pure healing spring water.
Then we visited Turaida Castle. Only one tower has survived to this day, in which the bottom is made of stone, and then turns into red brick. After I overcame 5 floors of the tower, I opened a beautiful winter view of the castle in the heights.
Then we also visited the museum and walked around the landscapes of the estate. Beauty, and only if in such bad weather the landscapes were simply mesmerizing, I can imagine how everything looks there in the summer.
After the end of the tour, we went to Riga, where we had to check into a hotel and go for a walk around the night Riga.
Of course, I was very impressed with Riga, because I like big and beautiful cities. We decided to walk around the old part of it in the evening. Songs are pouring all around, music is playing, which fills and charges tourists with a good mood.
We continued our tour of the Baltic Riga in the morning. Although the weather was damp, it still did not spoil our holiday.
We have visited a lot beautiful places and looked at all the main sights of the city. I cannot fail to mention the Church of St. John and the House of the Blackheads - one of the most beautiful Gothic buildings.
And also many other sights: Riga Castle, Dome Cathedral, Swedish Gates, Powder Tower and much more.
By the way, Latvians are very fond of pets, especially cats. Therefore, it is not surprising that they are even used as decorations for buildings and other structures.
They say that if you rub the monument "To the Bremen Town Musicians" and make a wish, then it must be fulfilled.
So I also decided to make it, and in order to find out whether it was fulfilled or not, I will tell you at the end of this year in the report on the work done for the whole year. So stay tuned and don't miss new blog posts.
Having seen enough of Riga, we went to Jurmala, a city that I often heard about from TV, as various festivals are held there " New wave", as well as the well-known" KVN-Voicing Kivin "and others.
Of course, I tried to look at the DZINTARI concert hall, but there was construction work going on there, and there was no good access to it.
But most of all I was impressed again by the Baltic Sea, or rather the Gulf of Riga. For the first time in my life I saw the sea, which was practically frozen. I threw a coin for luck to return there again.
After Jurmala, we boarded the bus together and went on the final tour of Lithuania.
Lithuania - a trip to Vilnius
Arriving in the capital of Lithuania, Vilnius, we stayed at the hotel for the night. If we compare this hotel with Tallinn or Riga, then I would give it 2 out of 5. It can be seen that it used to be very miserable, but some repairs have made some adjustments.
After an overnight stay, we went on a bus and walking tour of the city. I really liked the Cathedral, which is of great value, both for Lithuania and for the whole world.
The walls of the cathedral are decorated with paintings and frescoes of the 16th century, and the museum is located in the dungeon.
It was also fascinating to look at the monument to Gediminas, the church of St. Anna, three crosses, the church of St. Peter and Paul.
After sightseeing tour in the old city, everyone wanted to go to the shopping center Akropolis (Akropolis). This is the so-called entertainment center where you can buy absolutely everything, as well as have a great time.
You can really find anything here. Starting constructor Lego and ending with a cool car.
What is most interesting is the opportunity to buy some goods at good discounts, but I didn’t pick up anything for myself, since the prices were no different from ours in Belarus. But it's really worth a visit...
After shopping center we went to our homeland, and after 10 hours I was already sharing my impressions with my relatives and friends.
Summing up
To be honest, of the three countries I liked Estonia and Latvia the most. And if we consider cities, then Riga, perhaps, has no equal. Such historical and modern city In one place. However, Tallinn is more modern in terms of development.
There was a feeling that you were not in Estonia, but in some Czech Republic. In a word, Tallinn struck me with its modern way of life, which cannot be said about Lithuania (Vilnius), which reminded me more of my country.
As for prices, Estonia turned out to be the most expensive country, where prices are cheaper in Latvia, and Lithuania became the most affordable.
If you sum up my expenses, they turned out to be very modest.
1) Insurance + voucher (travel, accommodation, breakfast and guide) + visa cost me and my wife $400 for two.
2) Well, the rest of the expenses amounted to another $ 300 for two.
The result is 400 + 300 = 700 divided by 2 = $ 350 per person. I think that it is very cheap, so if you have the opportunity, be sure to go on an excursion to the Baltics.
I will be glad to listen to everyone in the comments who have already visited these countries, what impression do you have?
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