What do they eat in the mountains of Dagestan. The high mountains of Dagestan have become a favorite place for tourism and mountaineering
In this material, I bring to your attention a story about our trip to the Dokuzparinsky district.
The next point of our route was the Dokuzparinsky district. Having previously discussed all our actions, we left for Usukhchay, where Rakhman Gereev, a representative of the FLNKA in the Dokuzparinsky district, was already waiting for us.
As the main goal, we chose a visit to the highest mountain village in Europe - Kurush. Rahman provided us with transport in advance.
Dokuzparinsky district is the smallest Lezgi district of Dagestan in terms of area and population. It is located on far south Republic, it is here that the most south point Russia - an unnamed peak near Mount Ragdan.
View of the villages Tekipirkhur and Kalajukh
The name Dokuzpara comes from the Turkic word "doqquz" - nine. It was this number of villages that was part of the historical Dokuzparinsky free society, which, however, was located on the territory of the neighboring Akhtynsky district.
And on the territory of the present Dokuzparinsky district, the Altyparinsky free society was historically located.
Almost all the villages of Dokuzpary are located in the narrow valley of the ChiekhivatsI river. This gorge is bordered by the massifs of the Shalbuzsuv, Main Caucasian, Samur ridges, as well as the spurs of the Erysuv mountains, separating the UsukhvatsIa gorge from the neighboring Adzhiakhur gorge, which already belongs to the neighboring Kusar region.
Kalajukh
In general, the region itself is notable for its extraordinary relief characteristics. The main part of the territory of the region is represented by a deep gorge, and mountain ranges and peaks rise along the perimeter of the gorge.
Among them is the highest point of Dagestan - Mount Kichensuv (Bazarduzu) 4466 m, Mount Ragdan is located a little southeast. These and other peaks belong to the Main Caucasian Range.
Waterfall Charaur, breaking down from Erysuva
Mount Shalbuzsuv is the second highest in the region and the third in the republic, its peak is at a height of 4142 m. Massive spurs composed of clay slates and calcareous rocks extend from the mountain in all directions.
In the south-eastern part of the region, there is the center of mountaineering in Russia - Mount Erysuv with a height of 3925 m. Every year, the most avid lovers of extreme recreation climb this mountain. From the north, in front of the villages of the Dokuzparinsky district, the Gestinkil peak rises with a height of 2788 m.
First locality, which we meet at the entrance to Dokuzpara is Karakure. In our time, there are two villages - a new and an old aul, located a few kilometers from each other.
View of Kurush, Shalbuzsuv and the surrounding ranges from Mount Erysuv
According to some sources, already in the III millennium BC, in the Bronze Age, the surroundings of Karakure were inhabited by people. Evidence of this are the huge areas of cemeteries surrounding the village from all sides.
In the center is the highest peak of Dagestan - Mount Kichensuv (Bazarduzu), on the left is Erysuv
According to historians, Karakyure was formed by the merger of several settlements - Yar-kyil, Chiuru khuyr, Usukh, ChIeyar, Sutar avai khuyr and Uruk. The latter, by the way, was the residence of the Albanian kings. Tukhum Varazar still lives in the village today, whose name comes from the name of the Albanian king Varaz, who loved to relax in Uruk.
Old mosque in Karakur
The remains of an ancient ceramic water pipe were found in the village. Caracure is a kind of museum under open sky. Everything here speaks of its antiquity and greatness. After all, in the Middle Ages there was Big City, an important center of South Dagestan.
Yerysow
It had at least 900 households. Given that4-5 families lived under one roof at once, it becomes obvious that it was a really densely populated city. After the terrible plague epidemic of 1689, only 60 households remained in Karakyur. Nowadays, more than 1200 people live in the village.
In place of the ancient Christian temple in the 10th century, the Arabs built a mosque, which was known throughout southern Dagestan.
Carved door of the old Karakyura mosque
Unfortunately, in the winter of 2009 this unique mosque burned down. A few weeks ago, a new mosque was built with funds allocated by a native of this village, Suleiman Kerimov.
Old mosque in Karakur
The regional center of the Dokuzparinsky district is the village of Usukhvats I, located at the confluence of the Usukhvats I river of the same name with Samur. Historical chronicles testify to the events of the beginning of the 8th century that took place in this settlement.
Clouds envelop the Upper Dokuzpara
There are two versions of the origin of the village name. According to the first, the root "Usuh" is a form of the verb "Sukhun" (to stick, to stick). The fact is that the river UsukhvatsI during heavy rains pierces Samur like a bayonet.
The second version brings us back to the events that took place many centuries ago, when the Mikrakhs expelled the sons of Mukhtar Saijab, considering their lands their own. As a result, these territories, as it were, stuck between Miskindzha and Karakyure, hence the root "dry".
The first inhabitants of the modern aul were people from the neighboring village of Karakyure. Nowadays, the population of the district center is about 2 thousand people.
From here we went up the gorge. With each kilometer the level of height became more and more. The road ran along the Usukhvats I river. Huge stones and rocks were visible everywhere.
Kalajukh
The main occupation of the inhabitants of Dokuzpara is animal husbandry and agriculture. Sheep breeding is especially developed in the region. Large areas are occupied by cabbage, sometimes even entire slopes are planted with it. Immediately after Mikrah-Kazmayar, the first solid ascent began.
Immediately, Kalajukh opened our eyes, a village, a gorgeous view of which we observed throughout the whole way to Kurush. Kalajuh is located on the opposite bank from Mikrah. The old village was located on the top of Mount Aga-ah.
The name of the village comes from the word "Kala" - a fortress. Indeed, the old village was surrounded by powerful walls. The Kalajukhs always had a dispute with the Mikrakhs over the land, as a result of which the village was taken by the neighbors. Many residents died, there were also those who fled - villages with the same name Kala in Azerbaijan and Rutul were founded by fugitives from Kalajukh.
Feast in the village of Tekipirhyur
The modern village is a continuation of the old one, only located in the lower reaches of the historical village. The inhabitants of the village are the descendants of the tukhum Menzifar - the only tukhum who did not leave his native land; as well as numerous migrants from Mikrah and other villages.
Having passed Mikrah, after a few kilometers we entered the village of Tekipirkhur.
This is a small village, which was founded about 500 years ago by a native of Syria, Pir-Hasan, who, along with his brother Pir-Suleiman, was buried on Mount Shalbuzsuv. There is a mausoleum of Pir-Hasan in the village, there is also a ziyarat in the cemetery.
His grave is a place of pilgrimage for thousands of Muslims. Tekipirhyur is a small village, the number of households in it barely reaches 60. It is located in picturesque place at the foot of the Jerysuv and Shalbuzsuv mountains. This is the native village of Suleiman Kerimov's mother.
In Kurush
Further, behind Tekipirkhur, Kurush was already waiting for us. It should be noted that we were very unlucky with the weather there. If in UsukhvatsIe there was clear hot weather, then after Mikrakh-Kazmayar it became cloudy, in some places it was raining, because of which it was impossible to see the amazing views of the surrounding mountains.
Kurush
After a dozen kilometers of narrow serpentines, long ascents and steep cliffs, we finally reached Kurush, the highest mountain village in Europe and Russia. By God, this unique place. The people here are unique. Nature is unique. Air, plants, animals, birds - everything is unique.
Kurush children
Kurush in clear weather in summer against the backdrop of Yerysuva
Kurush is surrounded by the highest mountains of Dagestan - from the east Kichensuv and Erysuv, from the north Shalbuzsuv, from the south - the Main Caucasian Range. The village is located on the southern slope of Shalbuzsuva, at an altitude of 2600 meters above sea level.
Children playing football in the Kurush schoolyard
From the height of the village, probably the most the best views to the mountains throughout Southern Dagestan. Yarusuv rises majestically from the east of the village. From this mountain falls down the most high waterfall Dagestan - Charaur. The height of the fall is 250 meters, and the waterfall is two-stage - the height of the first stage is 150 meters, the second - 100. The people of Kurush call it Charadur.
The air in Kurush is rarefied, through which the ultraviolet rays of the sun burn all year round. Due to the lack of oxygen, the faces of the Kurusians acquired a characteristic blush that distinguishes them from the rest of the locals.
Kurush
Since ancient times, the main occupation of the inhabitants was sheep breeding, vast alpine pastures - the only wealth of the Kurush people - contributed to this. Sheep farmers led a semi-nomadic lifestyle. Earlier, for the winter period, they drove flocks of sheep to Azerbaijan, overcoming hundreds of kilometers of roads through gorges, passes and ravines.
There are static data, according to which in 1917 there were 72 thousand sheep in the village. It was in Kurush that the mountain-Lezgin coarse-wooled breed of sheep was bred under natural conditions, the coarse wool of which is indispensable in carpet weaving.
Kurush met us with a bluish haze. As I said, because of the fog and rain, we, alas, saw almost nothing. At a distance of more than 20-30 meters, it was already impossible to make out anything. It is also worth mentioning the characteristic smell of dung, which is almost the main building material and fuel here. There were practically no people on the street. Only restless children played football in the school yard.
After walking around the village for a bit, we didn't really go deep. We took a few shots and moved in the opposite direction.
That day we decided to stay overnight at Rahman's house in Mikrah. This is a fairly large village located on the left bank of the UsukhvatsI opposite Kalajukh. This region is rich in arable land, hay meadows and extensive pastures. There are many springs and streams here.
mikrah
From four sides the village is surrounded by majestic mountains - Kichensuv; Yerysow; Nisinsuv (Midday Mountain); Ekunsuv (Morning Mountain); Shalbuzsuv and Gestinkiel.
We have committed a little walk around the village. Rahman works as a teacher in a rural school, so he knows the history of his native village well.
According to folk etymology, the name "Mikrakh" comes from the words "mug" and "rag" (nest of the sun). The fact is that when the sun rises from behind the mountains on the eastern side, it hits with its rays immediately into the village, i.e. as if in a niche, in a nest. Hence "mugrag >> mikrakh".
Mikrakh is one of the largest carpet-making centers in Dagestan, Mikrakh carpets are distinguished by their quality and unique design, local carpet makers are distinguished by the art of quick work.
Tekipirhyur
This is a very ancient village. In 1994, local residents celebrated the 5000th anniversary of the village. However, the figure is, of course, overestimated. The first mention of Micrah dates back to the 2nd century AD. Numerous cemeteries, whose area is more than 20 hectares, also testify to the antiquity of the village.
Ancient tombs of Mikrah
In the Middle Ages, Mikrach was a city that was a craft, trade and cultural center region. During the early Middle Ages, Mikrah was a stronghold of the Khazars for many years and the city did not accept Islam, providing fierce resistance to the Arabs. However, the combined forces of the Arabs and Akhtyns took the village by force.
In a later period, the aul was completely restored, expanded and regained its former importance. In 1630 became administrative center of the newly formed Altypar society. In the 19th century, Mikrakh was the administrative center of the Dokuzparinsky district of the Samur district.
Rahman showed us the local ziyarat. As well as numerous Christian graves that can be seen everywhere. Almost every stone or slab speaks about the antiquity of the village here.
The modern village looks rather poor and faded. There are many dilapidated houses in which people still live. There is no normal road, poor communication. From Mikrah, Kalajukh is clearly visible, which is within easy reach from there. At night in Kalajukh there was a dem (wedding dance party), the music was heard as if the wedding was played in Mikrah.
mikrah
Rahman's house is located in the upper part of the village, from its veranda there is a stunning view of Nesinsuv and Kichensuv. Rahman's grandmother welcomed us cordially. Our evening passed in conversations and discussion of what we saw.
FLNKA
Dagestan is perhaps the richest region in Russia in terms of landscape diversity. From the coast of the Caspian Sea in a few hours you can reach the snowy peaks of the Greater Caucasus, and see almost the entire variety of natural complexes of temperate latitudes: sands and semi-deserts, marshes, plains and mountain meadows, steppes, unique landscapes of badlands and arid basins, deciduous and coniferous forests, snowfields and glaciers.
Accordingly, the diversity of animals and plants inhabiting these landscapes is also great. These are about 4 thousand species of plants, several tens of thousands of invertebrates, almost 100 species of mammals, more than 350 species of birds, up to fifty species of reptiles and amphibians, and about 80 forms of freshwater and marine fish. More than a dozen species of terrestrial vertebrates, such as the Syrian spadefoot, cat snake, gyurza, thick-billed plover, red-headed shrike, tugai nightingale, horseshoe bat Megeli, etc. are found in Russia only in Dagestan. Not to mention incomparable more plants and invertebrates, whose ranges in our country do not go beyond Dagestan.
Therefore, chained to our republic Special attention researchers of nature - geographers, botanists, zoologists, ecologists. It will take many more years to understand and appreciate all the diversity of the wild nature of Dagestan. But until that time, all this wealth must be preserved.
For this, reserves are created and National parks, reserves, biospheric polygons, natural parks, natural monuments, dendrological parks, botanical gardens, recreation areas and resorts. specially protected natural areas. Specially protected natural territories are chosen as unique, reference areas of land and water surface, which are of key importance for the conservation of the biological and landscape diversity of a particular region, country or the entire Earth. In the latter case, such territories are assigned the status of internationally significant.
In addition to their special environmental and scientific significance, these territories should be of great value in terms of recreational and health-improving use, as well as for environmental, cultural and aesthetic education. Specially protected natural territories are completely or partially withdrawn from economic use, and a regime of special protection is established on them. Specially protected natural territories can be federal and regional. There is also a category of local specially protected natural areas, but the mechanism for their allocation and approval has not been fully developed.
To date, there are officially 46 specially protected natural territories in Dagestan, including 6 federal and 38 regional (republican) ones. There are also specially protected natural areas of local importance and a large number of officially unapproved natural monuments, which were once described by the Geographical Society of Dagestan.
Federal Specially Protected Natural Territories is a state nature reserve"Dagestansky", three sanctuaries subordinate to it - "Agrakhansky", "Samursky" and "Tlyaratinsky", as well as Gorny Botanical Garden DSC RAS, located on the Gunibsky plateau, the botanical garden of the GOU VPO DGU.
Republican specially protected natural territories - 12 state natural reserves(“Nogaisky”, “Tarumovsky”, “Yangiyurtovsky”, “Khamamatyurtovsky”, “Kayakentsky”, “Deshlagarsky”, “Kasumkentsky”, “Andreyaulsky”, “Melishtinsky”, “Kosobsko-Kelebsky”, “Bezhtinsky” and “Charodinsky” ), 1 natural Park(Upper Gunib), 25 natural monuments (Almaksky canyon, Assatinskaya cave, Chvakhilo waterfall, Gvadarinsky waterfall, Rychal-Su valley, Kazanishchensky forest, Karadakh gorge, Kug eolian city, Kuzhniksky (Turaginsky) natural bridge, Akh-Kol lake, Kazenoy-Am lake, Mochokh lake, Shaitan-Kazak lake, Dyurk cave, plane trees near the Juma mosque in Derbent, Saltinskaya gorge, Saltinskoye gorge, Cavalier Battery rock, Pushkin Profile rock , the Sosnovka tract, the Talga valley, the Tashkapur gorge, the Echo gorge, the Khanag waterfall, the Khunzakh waterfalls, the Tsanak plane tree).
The total area of officially approved specially protected natural territories of Dagestan is more than 600 thousand hectares, and together with the territories proposed for protection, but not approved, it is about 700 thousand hectares.
Geographical position
The Republic of Dagestan occupies the area of the Eastern Ciscaucasia, located on the northeastern slope of the Greater Caucasus and the southwest of the Caspian lowland. The area of Dagestan is 50.3 thousand square meters. km and is the largest of all republics North Caucasus.
From the east, Dagestan is washed by the waters of the Caspian Sea. Coastline it is poorly dissected and has a length of 530 km from the mouth of the Kuma River in the north to the mouth of the Samur River in the south. The length of the territory of Dagestan from north to south is 420 km and from west to east 216 km. The average height above sea level is 1 thousand meters, the highest point is Mount Bazarduzu (4466 m). Most low place(28 m) is located within the Tersko-Kuma lowland.
In the north, Dagestan borders on the Republic of Kalmykia - the border runs along the dry channel of the Kuma River for 110 km, and in the north-west with the Stavropol Territory, and the conditional border runs along the Nogai steppe of the Terek-Kuma lowland 186 km long. In the west, it borders on the Chechen Republic for 420 km along the Tersko-Kumskaya and Tersko-Sulak lowlands, and then to the south along the watershed ridges of the Snegovoi and Andiysk ridges. In the southwest, Dagestan borders on the Republic of Georgia. The border stretched for 150 km along the crest of the Main Caucasian Range to Mount Tinav-Rosso. Further in the southeast it borders on the Republic of Azerbaijan for 315 km. The border runs along the crest of the Main Caucasian Range to Mount Bazarduzu, and along the bed of the Samur River to its mouth. The total length of the land borders of Dagestan reaches 1181 km.
Rivers
The territory of Dagestan is very favorable for the formation of a dense network of surface waters, which, however, are very unevenly distributed. The rivers of the republic are one of the significant wealth: they are a source of hydropower, water supply, irrigation and fishing, since all sectors of the economy of the republic are associated with the use of water and often the lack of water negatively affects the degree of intensification of its individual sectors.
Within Dagestan, 4 large river basins can be distinguished: Sulak, Terek, Samur and the rivers of Piedmont Dagestan.
The rivers Terek and Sulak flow through the central part of the republic. There are 6255 rivers flowing in Dagestan (including 100 main ones, having a length of more than 25 km and a catchment area of more than 100 km, 185 small and more than 5900 smallest rivers), the largest of them are the Terek, Sulak, Samur with tributaries. All rivers belong to the basin of the Caspian Sea, but only 20 of them flow into the sea.
Due to the dry climate, the north of Dagestan is poor in rivers. The available rivers are used for irrigation in summer and do not reach the sea.
The most abundant are mountain rivers, which, due to their rapid flow, do not freeze even in winter; they are characterized by comparative high water content and significant slopes.
Sulak is formed at the confluence of the Avar Koisu and Andi Koisu rivers, which originate in the mountains of the Greater Caucasus. The area of its basin is 15.2 thousand km². Sulak accounts for half of all hydropower resources in Dagestan; the Chiryurtskaya and Chirkeyskaya hydroelectric power stations are located here.
The Karakoysu is a right tributary of the Avar Koysu River, which flows 37 km above the mouth.
The Terek River is a transit river for Dagestan. According to the occupied area (12,665 sq. km).
The Samur is the second largest river in Dagestan. The area of its basin is 7.3 thousand km². When flowing into the Caspian Sea, the Samur breaks up into branches and forms a delta. It is planned to build three hydroelectric power stations on the river and on its main tributaries. The waters of the Samur are also used for irrigation purposes: irrigation canals have been drawn from the river to irrigate southern Dagestan and neighboring Azerbaijan.
The main source of food for the rivers of the foothill (outer mountain) zone of the republic is spring and autumn rainfall. Summer precipitation, with the exception of showers that cause floods on rivers, is mainly spent on evaporation.
Until the end of the last century (80-90s), it was believed that Dagestan was poor in lakes. By that time, there were about 100 lakes, which occupied a relatively large area (more than 150 sq. km). But over the past 15-20 years, many new lakes have been discovered and described, mostly mountainous, located in hard-to-reach areas. As a result, the number of mountain lakes alone increased by about 155%.
Lakes throughout the republic are distributed unevenly. Most of the lakes are located in the lowlands, there are fewer of them in the foothills, especially in the mountainous part.
On the lowland territory there are lakes of lagoon-marine origin, floodplain, estuary, located in the deltas and floodplains of the Terek, Sulak, Samur rivers; suffusion lakes (hollows) are confined to the arid regions of the Tersko-Kuma lowland. In mountainous areas, landslide-dammed, glacial, moraine lakes, as well as lakes of cirque cirques and mountain plateaus are more common. In Lowland Dagestan, the lakes are mostly endorheic, and in Mountain Dagestan they are flowing.
In the Piedmont and Lowlands, the lakes are usually shallow. But they occupy a large area and become very shallow by autumn.
In Dagestan, 3 reservoirs were built on the Sulak River: Chiryurtovskoye, Chirkeyskoye and Miatlinskoye, and one on the Kara-Koysu River - Gergebilskoye. The largest of them is Chirkeyskoye, its area is 42 sq. km. The construction of the Irganai reservoir is nearing completion.
Relief
Dagestan is geographically divided into foothill, mountain and high-mountain physiographic zones, each of which has different types of vegetation.
The orography of Dagestan is peculiar: a 245-kilometer strip of foothills rests on transverse ridges that border Inner Dagestan in a huge arc. Two main rivers break out of the mountains - Sulak in the north and Samur in the south. The natural boundaries of mountainous Dagestan are: the Snegovoi and Andi ridges - up to the giant Sulak canyon, Gimrinsky, Les, Kokma, Dzhufudag and Yarudag - between Sulak and the Samur basin, the Main Caucasian ridge - in the southwest of both basins.
Inner Dagestan, in turn, is divided into a mid-mountain, plateau-like region and an alpine, high-mountain region.
The mountains cover an area of 25.5 thousand km², and the average height of the entire territory of Dagestan is 960 m. Highest point- Bazarduzu (4466 m). The rocks that make up the mountains of Dagestan are sharply demarcated. The main ones are black and argillaceous shales, strong dolomitic and weak alkaline limestones, as well as sandstones. The slate ridges include Snegovoi with the Diklosmta massif (4285 m), Bogos with the top of Addala-Shukhgelmeer (4151 m), Shalib with the top of Dyultydag (4127 m).
Climate
The climate of Dagestan, despite its diversity, can generally be attributed to moderately warm, in the mountains it is moderately cold with more or less pronounced continentality, which manifests itself in significant annual temperature amplitudes in the lowlands, in the uplands - in sharp daily fluctuations, as well as in insufficient moisture. . In general, the climate of Dagestan is characterized as dry and semi-dry, temperate continental.
The climate in the north and in the central part of Dagestan is temperate continental and arid, in the south along the Caspian Sea and in the Caspian lowland there is a subtropical semi-dry climate.
The main factor in the formation of the climate of the whole of Dagestan is its location in the southern part of the temperate thermal zone, the receipt of a significant amount of solar heat.
In the climate of Dagestan, there are sharp contrasts in different areas. In the mountains at an altitude of 3 thousand m, the absolute maximum temperatures are 21-23 ° C, and in the north of the lowlands the air temperature can be more than 40 ° C. Precipitation in the lowlands does not exceed 400 mm, and in the mountains at a height of 3 thousand m they fall more than 1 thousand mm.
Dagestan is divided into three soil-climatic zones:
mountainous - above 850 (1000) m (area 2.12 million hectares or 39.9% of the territory)
foothill - from 150 (200) to 850 (1000) m (area 0.84 million hectares or 15.8% of the territory)
flat - from 28 to 150 (200) m (2.35 million hectares or 43.3% of the territory).
The growing season is 200-240 days.
Vegetation
The geography of land is different in the three main zones of the republic: flat, foothill and mountainous. The main part of land is in the flat (more than 58%), foothill (11%) and mountainous (31%) zones of Dagestan.
In the mountains and foothills, arable land is located on the slopes and is represented by small contour plots (from 0.1 ha) in the form of terraces. The flat zone accounts for 79% of arable land. The most arable massifs are located on the territory of the Tersko-Sulakskaya and Primorskaya lowlands. Here, plowing exceeds environmentally acceptable limits, which leads to increased soil degradation. The flat zone accounts for 63% of perennial plantations. Thus, the flat zone is the main agricultural zone of the republic.
In the foothill zone, chestnut, mountain-chestnut, and brown forest steppe soils are widespread. 16% of arable land, 27% of perennial plantations and 25% of hayfields and pastures are concentrated here. This is the main area of rainfed agriculture, with highly productive hayfields.
On mountain zone only about 1% of arable land and 0.2% of perennial plantations fall on hayfields and pastures - more than 30% of the total land area of Dagestan. Its main value is summer distant pastures, the productivity of which is higher here than in lowland areas.
Steppe and semi-desert territories of Plain Dagestan (this includes Northern Dagestan within the Nogai, Tarumovsky and Kizlyar regions), as well as the adjacent territories of Kalmykia, Chechnya and Stavropol Territory are valuable fodder lands for keeping sheep in winter time. The productivity of these lands has greatly decreased and continues to decline due to the cessation of livestock transfer by many farms to summer pastures. Along with an increase in the load on pastures by 3-4 times in terms of the number of sheep, the ecological situation is aggravated by the rise in the level of the Caspian Sea, which leads to flooding of the western areas - 200 thousand hectares of fodder lands.
The total area of forest resources of the republic is 424 thousand hectares (8.4% of the total area of the territory), including 355 thousand hectares covered with forest. The total timber stock is estimated at 39.4 million cubic meters. m. The annual size of fellings for the main use reaches 40 thousand cubic meters. m. Planting and sowing of forest crops in the state forest fund was carried out on an area of more than 1 thousand hectares.
In the recent past, the forests of Dagestan occupied larger areas, both in the lowlands and in the mountains. As a result of centuries-old human activity, the areas under arable land and orchards, vineyards and industrial crops have expanded at the expense of forests. Many forests, due to their long-term use for grazing, have lost their reforestation capacity. At present, forests have been preserved in small massifs and islands in the lowlands, in the Foothill, Intramountain and High-mountain Dagestan.
About 4,500 species of higher plants grow in Dagestan, of which 1,100 are endemic. Meadows and forests are widespread in the foothill zone (beginning from a height of 600 m). In subalpine and alpine meadows, fescue, clover, astragalus, blue scabiosa, blue gentians, etc. predominate. At an altitude of 3200-3600 m, mosses, lichens and other cold-resistant plants predominate.
Dagestan is the southernmost subject Russian Federation. From the east, the republic is washed by the waters of the Caspian Sea, its southern and middle parts are occupied by the foothills and mountains of the Greater Caucasus, and the Caspian lowland spreads in the north. The nature of this region is very multifaceted - here you can see mountain ranges and canyons mysterious caves and grottoes stormy rivers and waterfalls, mineral springs and gentle Caspian beaches. Hundreds of thousands of tourists visit Dagestan every year to capture its most Beautiful places on photos and videos.
Karadakh Gorge (Dark Gorge, Gate of Miracles)
This magnificent natural monument is located near the village of Karadakh, between the Gunibsky and Khunzakhsky regions of Dagestan, and is a gorge created by a river that has cut limestone rocks here for many years.
The length of the gorge is about 400 meters, the height is up to 170 meters, the maximum width is 4 meters. The walls of the gorge curve and narrow upwards, covering the sky, so even on a sunny day, twilight reigns here. Looking at this place from the air, it seems as if a huge crack runs through the mountain range.
In some places of the gorge, one has to pass under huge stones that have fallen off the edge of the cliff and stuck between the walls. And during summer heavy rains, the river becomes a powerful turbulent stream, rapidly raising the water level in the gorge to 3-4 meters.
At the exit from the Gate of Miracles, 50 meters above the river, you can see a nest of bees, near which pegs are driven in - fearless lovers of wild honey once climbed on them.
Karabudakhkent caves
These karst caves are considered the most beautiful in Dagestan and attract speleologists from all over the world. They are located on the slopes of the Eldam uplift, on the left bank of the Manasozen River, 4 kilometers from the village of Karabudakhkent.
The largest of the three caves is 125 meters long and has 8 halls connected by narrow tunnels. In one of the grottoes, stalactites hang from the upper arch - a rather rare occurrence for this area.
In some places, ancient rock paintings have been preserved on the walls of the caves, gradually disappearing due to lack of proper care. There are also significant deposits of the natural mineral mumiyo, used to treat many diseases.
Sulak Canyon
This majestic creation of nature was formed by the Sulak River, which drilled a gorge in the rock separating the Gimry Range from Salatau. The length of the canyon is about 53 kilometers, and the depth is up to 1900 meters, which makes it one of the highest in the world.
The slopes are quite steep, impregnable, forming rocky cliffs, which are interspersed with terrace-like ledges. From the top, one of the most full-flowing rivers of Dagestan - Sulak - seems like a thin turquoise ribbon, and raising your head up, you can see eagles flying around these places on patrol.
To admire the canyon, tourists usually come to the village of Dubki, Kazbekovsky district - there are several points with stunning views, a safe observation deck is equipped.
Mount Shalbuzdag
This 4142 meter peak is located on the Main Caucasian ridge and is sacred to Lezgins and Muslims. Climbing it three times is equivalent to the Hajj to Mecca.
Here is the sanctuary of Suleiman - the righteous local resident, whose body after death was brought to the mountain by doves, proving his holiness. A mosque was built over the grave, and pilgrims pray to Suleiman for the forgiveness of sins, getting rid of diseases, leave expensive gifts. Climbing higher, the believers find themselves at Pir Erenler, the site where Suleiman was last seen.
Here is the sacred Mountain Lake Zem-Zem, a stone for sacrifices, the rock "Sinner", squeeze through the gap in which only people who have not committed atrocities can squeeze through.
An exhausting, full of obstacles path does not frighten dozens and hundreds of pilgrims who climb Shalbuzdag every day in July-August. In addition to spiritual purification, people are attracted by picturesque views of the mountains, the valley of the Samur River, the Caspian Sea.
Mount Pushkin-Tau (Izbergtau)
This miraculous monument located in the vicinity of the coastal town of Izberbash at an altitude of 220 meters above sea level and is a combination of rocks, which, going behind each other, form the profile of the great Russian poet - Alexander Sergeevich Pushkin. It is visible only from the Rostov-Derbent highway, when descending to Izberbash, and is now a symbol of the city.
Previously, the face on the mountain served as a guide for ships sailing from the north, now it is a favorite place for paragliders who gather here every summer. In 1978, Pushkin-Tau was recognized as a natural monument of regional importance.
Barkhan Sarykum
A unique monument of nature is the relict dune Sarykum ( yellow sands) - is located 18 kilometers from Makhachkala. The dune is the second largest in the world, occupying 12 kilometers in length and up to 4 in width. Max Height Sarykuma - about 250 meters, it consists of fine-grained golden sand, on which plants grow and animals live. The base of the sand mountain is stationary, and the ridges move depending on the direction of the wind.
Scientists are still arguing about the origin of the dune in this area, the main version is the influence of winds blowing sand from the surrounding rocks and bringing it here.
In the middle of the sands, the Shuraozen River flows, dividing Sarykum into a state-protected northern part and the southern one, being developed as a quarry. Due to the actions of man and nature, this object is on the verge of extinction.
Samur forest
200 kilometers southeast of Makhachkala, in the delta of the Samur River, there is the only array of subtropical liana forests in Russia. On the territory of Dagestan, they are part of the Samur State Nature Reserve.
The trunks of poplars, lindens, hornbeams, apple trees, walnuts and other trees, densely braided with flexible evergreen vines, rise from the tall grass. Many species of plants and animals of this place are listed in the Red Book of the Russian Federation, for some of them the Samur Forest is the only habitat.
This relic reserve is fed by underground springs, thanks to which a whole network of small lakes has formed on the Caspian coast. In the thick of the rainforest, you can see more than 15 species of vines - their flexible branches, studded with unusual flowers, hang from the trees, and the hot, humid air is filled with amazing aromas.
Khunzakh waterfall (Tobot)
In the heart of Nagorny Dagestan, a 3-hour drive from Makhachkala, at an altitude of 1700-2000 meters above sea level, the vast Khunzakh plateau extends. In many places it has steep steep edges of tens and hundreds of meters.
The Tobot River slowly flows along the plateau, the channel of which cuts through the rocks, forming a V-shaped gorge. Suddenly, the plateau breaks off, and the waters of the river rush down with a roar from a height of 100 meters, scattering into millions of splashes in which a rainbow plays.
Tobot waterfall is one of the most famous and easily accessible in Dagestan. Its beauty and strength, as well as the delightful landscapes of the Khunzakh plateau, attract many travelers to these places. best time May-June is considered to be a visit to the waterfall, when the snow melts and there is a lot of precipitation.
Lake Kezenoy-Am (Eisenam, Blue)
This alpine reservoir is located on the border between the Dagestan and Chechen Republics and is the largest in the North Caucasus - its area is about 2.4 square kilometers. The high mountains surrounding the lake protect it from wind and precipitation, and the flowering alpine meadows give this place a special charm.
Pure clear water has a blue color and changes shades depending on the time of day and weather. In summer, the lake warms up to 17-18 degrees, and in winter its surface is covered with ice.
In Keizenoy-Am, you can catch large trout, and the Apollo butterfly is also found in these places, which indicates the purity of the air. Numerous archaeological finds were found around the lake, testifying to the long-standing residence of the Chechen peoples in these places.
Mineral springs in the village of Akhty
This mountain settlement is the administrative center of the Akhtynsky district and an important cultural and tourist site of Dagestan. It is located in the picturesque valley of the Samur River, into which the Akhtychay flows here, and is surrounded by treeless mountain peaks.
Not far from the village, in the gorge on the left bank of the Akhtychay River, there are 14 mineral springs, which were given interesting names - “Male”, “Soldier”, “Officer”, “Female”, “Warm”, etc.
Most of them are hot, the water temperature reaches 53 degrees, there are also warm and cold ones. The waters of the springs differ in chemical composition, they are taken orally or used in the form of baths for the treatment of diseases of the musculoskeletal system, gastrointestinal tract, nervous system, normalization of blood circulation and metabolism.
Akhtynskaya fortress
Also in the area of the village of Akhty is the southernmost fortress of Russia - Akhtynskaya. It was built under the leadership of General Evgeny Golovin in 1839 in a record 40 days. The masonry of the fortress walls, the soldiers' barracks, the powder magazine and the building of the Orthodox Church have survived to this day.
During its existence, the fortress served as the residence of the ruler of the Samur district, survived the Battle of Akhtyn, was used for winemaking and the production of cinder blocks, visited a prison and an orphanage, paving slabs and spare parts for clockwork toys were made on its territory, then a branch of a defense plant settled here. Now the fortress is included in the register of monuments of history and architecture of federal significance, the authorities plan to create a historical and cultural complex "Akhtynskaya Fortress".
Itsarinsky battle tower
Frequent wars and enemy raids forced the inhabitants of Dagestan to build numerous fortifications, which contributed to the improvement of tower architecture. These buildings, made in compliance with symmetry and proportions, are the pinnacle of medieval architectural art. They are scattered throughout Nagorno-Dagestan and represent a single system of control of strategic objects - passes, roads, settlements.
One of the most ancient and interesting is considered combat tower in the village of Itsari, Dakhadaevsky district - this largest of the round towers of the North Caucasus dates back to the 14th (according to other sources - the 16th) century. It has a conical shape tapering upwards, an inner diameter of 7 meters and walls 2 meters thick at the base. In addition to being defensive, the tower could perform a guard and signal function. It is located on a ledge of a rock, above the village, and organically fits into the surrounding picturesque landscapes.
Naryn-Kala fortress
Between the Caspian Sea and the foothills of the Caucasus is located amazing city Derbent, whose history dates back 5 millennia. In the 6th century, the construction of the Naryn-Kala fortress (Sun Gate) began in these places, designed to block the access of barbarians to the Persian kingdom in a place where mountain ranges come close to the Caspian Sea.
This grandiose citadel surrounds an area of 4.5 hectares and follows the shape of the relief, forming a polygon with stone walls. The thickness of the walls is 3, and the height is up to 10-12 meters, they are fortified with combat towers built every 20-30 meters of the perimeter. The UNESCO organization awarded the Naryn-Kala fortress the title of a monument of world importance.
Fortress of seven brothers and one sister (Khuchninskaya)
Located in the Tabasaran region, not far from the village of Khuchni, the fortress is sometimes called Khuchninskaya or Yagdygskaya. According to legend, 7 warrior brothers once lived in it, defending these places from enemy raids, and their beautiful sister. Having fallen in love with the leader of the enemies, the gullible girl let her lover into the fortress, destroying both herself and her brothers.
Built in the form of an irregular quadrangle, the citadel has 2 entrances covered with stone beams, and walls up to 2 meters wide with loopholes. In the old days it was two-story, but now the first floor is almost completely covered with earth. Unlike other fortifications in this area, the fortress's masonry is even, made of hewn stones of the correct shape, which has allowed it to be well preserved from the early Middle Ages to the present day.
Gunib fortress
The modern village of Gunib, located on the Gunib plateau, was founded in 1862 and owes its name to the village of the same name, located on the top of the plateau and destroyed in 1859. During the Caucasian War, Imam Shamil was captured at this place, after which the tsarist troops erected a mighty fortress here.
In the Lower Gunib there are the first fortress gates, named after General Baryatinsky, who captured Shamil. Above the village are the “Gate of Shamil”, as well as an impressive stone wall rising to the top of the mountain, towards the battle tower of a cylindrical shape.
The building of the commandant's office and the monument on the grave of the soldiers of the Apsheron regiment who fell here have also been preserved. In the birch grove of the Upper Gunib, at the site of the capture of Shamil, a rotunda was built. So observation deck stunning views open up.
Cathedral of the Sign
The largest Orthodox church in the North Caucasus is located in the city of Khasavyurt, an architectural monument of the early 20th century - the Cathedral in the name of the Icon of the Sign Holy Mother of God. This building of the neo-Byzantine architectural style, 45 meters high, is crowned with nine domes with crosses and can be seen from afar.
The temple, built in 1903-1904 for the 300th anniversary of the Romanov dynasty, had a rich interior decoration, stucco, painting, but in 1939 it was closed and adapted for a fuel and lubricants warehouse, in 1943 the interior was destroyed by fire, and the entire temple area was subsequently built up. Now the cathedral is included in the federal program "Culture of Russia", it is planned to carry out restoration work in it.
They are full of charm and internal contradictions: bright sun and snowy peaks, green alpine meadows and rocky cliffs, transparent rivers and mudflows of stones and mud. And also Caucasian mountains- a lot of legends and legends. Plots related to the Caucasus occupy a significant place in Greek mythology (myths about Prometheus, the Golden Fleece and the Argonauts, the Amazons, etc.). The Caucasus is also mentioned in the holy books of the Bible and the Koran.
The very origin of our mountains is also fanned by legends. One of them was recorded by the great Alexandre Dumas when he traveled around the Caucasus in the middle of the 19th century. In ancient times, when there was only a blue sky, a steppe and several small mountains, an old man lived as a hermit on the top of one of them, eating only berries and water from springs. Over time, the devil began to tempt and torment the old man. The hermit endured for a long time, but then he prayed to God with a request to allow him to punish the devil. Having received permission, the old man heated the tongs and grabbed the nose of the offender with them. The devil literally howled in pain, hammering his tail on the ground. An earthquake began, as a result of which the Caucasus Mountains were formed. And where the blows of the tail destroyed the rocks, today there are gloomy gorges.
To find out about the origin of mountain ranges in the territory of modern Dagestan from the point of view of science, we turned to a specialist - candidate of geographical sciences, senior researcher at the Institute of Geology of the Dagestan Scientific Center of the Russian Academy of Sciences Idris Idrisov.
– What preceded the appearance of mountains on the territory of Dagestan
and when did it happen?
– The formation of mountains is a long and complex process. When the events related to the processes of formation of the modern Caucasus began, not only people, but also dinosaurs did not exist on Earth. It was in the second half of the Paleozoic era, more than 300 million years ago, then there was extensive land.
Subsequently, deep processes led to the formation of a vast ocean - the Tethys. Specific deposits with the same type of fauna were deposited in it, later a grandiose belt of mountains was formed from these rocks: the Alps, the Carpathians, the Caucasus, the Himalayas.
Different parts of the Caucasus have a different history of development. This is largely due to the structure of even deeper and older parts - the foundation on which the "young" sedimentary cover lies. For example, the extreme south of Dagestan (from Tsuntinsky to Akhtynsky districts) was occupied by the deepest parts ancient ocean, and deep-sea clays accumulated here. For tens of millions of years after that, they turned into clay shales, so high-mountainous Dagestan is also called Slantsy. Extensive land in those days was located to the north, it was periodically flooded with water. According to modern data, from it flowed into the sea major rivers. Their deposits are represented by thick (hundreds of meters) sandstone strata with interlayers of coal (a band from Tsumadinsky to Magaramkent regions). The age of these deposits is 165-200 Ma.
Further, the nature of the development of the region changed dramatically. In a hot climate, limestone strata accumulated in the shallow water zone. At that time, the strip from Shahdag in the south to the Khunzakh plateau and further to the northwest (up to Krasnodar Territory) was a tropical sea with corals. The rocks of that time (mainly limestones) form the central part, which is called Limestone Dagestan. Such rocks are most clearly represented in the northwest (from Botlikh to Akushinsky districts), further to the southeast, the limestone development band sharply narrows, leaving almost one Karasyrt ridge.
The closure of the Tethys and the sharp convergence of the continental plates about 20 million years ago led to the beginning of the growth of the mountains. At that time, the Caucasus was an island, surrounded on all sides by the sea. The accumulated rocks were later either eroded if they were clays, or preserved (if they were sandstones) in the form of a strip of low ridges surrounding the mountains of Dagestan. Subsequently, deposits of the Sarmatian age accumulated - these are also clays, which are eroded almost everywhere, with a thin layer of limestone, fragments of which we see in the form of the Tarki-Tau and Dzhalgan mountains. The further history of the region is already connected with the isolated Caspian reservoir.
After the accumulation of rocks, tectonic (deep) processes took up the cause of creating mountains, which crush rocks into folds, tear them apart and move them for kilometers along faults. In addition to tectonic processes, external (exogenous) processes also played an important role in creating the relief of the mountains of Dagestan: water erosion, landslides, mountain glaciations, etc.
– Tell us more about the features of our mountains.
– Alpine Slate Dagestan is distinguished by deep V-shaped valleys, with predominantly triangular peaks. In the highest places there is also a typically alpine - glacial relief, with moraines, lakes, etc. The most high peaks Dagestan with a height of more than 4,000 m. The largest ranges of this part are Snegovoi, Bogosskiy, Nukatl, Taklik, Dyultydag, Samurskiy, Khultaydag, Kyabyaktepe. In the extreme southwest, the mountains are slightly lower, moist air penetrates through them from the south, and rich forests grow here.
Intramountain (Limestone) Dagestan is characterized by the presence of almost flat elongated ridges-plateaus (Khunzakh, Arakmeer, Turchidag, Gunibskoe, Shunudag, etc.), up to 2,800 m high. These forms are huge "Earth waves" - tectonic folds. In the river valleys, there is an alternation of narrow sections (bright examples are the Sulak Canyon and the Karadakh Gorge) and wide basins. In these deep basins (Irganai, Botlikh, Kurma, etc.) a specific dry and hot microclimate is established. Sheer cliffs hundreds of meters high are developed here.
In Piedmont (Low-mountain) Dagestan there are three large outcrops of Cretaceous limestones, one of which is cut by the river. Sulak and where the relief is similar to Intramountain. In the rest of the territory, relatively sloping ridges up to 800 m high are developed, composed of sandstones with specific vegetation. Bright objects are two isolated plateau mountains (Tarki-Tau and Dzhalgan). There are two large forests in this zone: one in the northwest and it is associated with wet masses coming from the Atlantic, the second in the southeast, in the Derbent region, where the influence of moisture coming from the Caspian Sea affects.
– The Dagestan mountains are not only picturesque landscapes, but also the territory where Agriculture minerals were mined. How are these areas developing in the republic today?
“In the past, people were very careful about the land. Ancient villages were built in such a way as to save as much as possible the land created by the hands of the terraces, the houses often stood on top of each other. However, now momentary tasks have become important, in the solution of which our enterprise helps a lot. Few people think what will happen later, who will pay for such a consumerist and barbaric attitude towards nature, towards their homeland. The history of the development of the Eastern Caucasus determined the presence here of the richest resources of sedimentary rocks (limestone, dolomite, sandstone, gravel, clay, etc.), they are all spontaneously developed, this is clearly seen in the unprecedented construction boom in the region. It is a completely different matter what benefit this brings to Dagestan and Dagestanis as a whole and how rational such use of land is.
Thus, the mountains of Dagestan saw different times: and continuous development, and desolation. Now the ancient terraces are mostly abandoned, but they will wait until people need them again. If we wisely use the resources that our mountains have, then it will be possible to successfully develop agriculture, the extraction of building materials, tourism and much more.
The Caucasus Mountains occupy half of the entire area of Dagestan. On the territory of the republic there are about 30 peaks, the height of which is more than 4000 meters.
The highest mountains of Dagestan are Addala-Shukhgelmeer (4151 meters), Dyultydag (4127 meters), mountain range Diclosmta (4285 meters). Shalbuz-dag (3925 meters) rises in the south of the republic. Nearby is a large table peak Yaru-Dag (4116 meters), its vertical walls have repeatedly become a place for competitions of climbers from all over Russia.
The most big mountain Dagestan - Bazarduzu. It is located in the very south of the republic. The state border of the Russian Federation and neighboring Azerbaijan runs along the top of the mountain.
The Dividing Range of the Greater Caucasus stretches in the south and west of the republic. It traps moist air masses from the south, which is why the climate in Dagestan is dry.
Despite great height mountains, the local glaciers are not as grandiose as their counterparts in the Central and Western Caucasus. The largest of them are located in the Bogossky mountain range. The largest glacier in Dagestan - Belengi is 3.2 kilometers long, its ice thickness reaches 170 meters. Recently, glaciers have significantly lost in size, and many have disappeared altogether.
The highlands of Dagestan are the realm of alpine meadows. Close to their lower edge comes the forest, rising to a height of 2000 - 2200 meters. Many different living creatures live in it: Dagestan turs live here, sometimes the shadow of a mountain goat flickers among the rocks or a herd of swift-footed chamois jumps. Brown bears and Caucasian deer, hares and martens live in the forest thickets. Here you can meet flocks of stone partridges and mountain turkeys. Eagles soar high in the sky above the mountain peaks.
Inner Dagestan is an endless labyrinth of mountain ranges, peaks, rocks and gorges. Many rivers are born in the mountains, which carry their waters to the Caspian Sea. Their path lies in deep valleys and gorges.
The northern regions of the republic, where the Terek-Kuma lowland is located, greet the traveler with completely different landscapes. In ancient times, the waves of the ancient sea splashed on these plains. Salt marshes and shells of sea mollusks found in the sands still remind of this. Today it is very dry here, and the surrounding landscapes are more like a desert. The main local inhabitants are saigas, hares, foxes and, of course, a huge number of rodents.
A few rivers cross the salty plain, but not all of them manage to reach the sea. Only the high-water Terek, Samur, Sulak, Uluchai and Rubas, overcoming sand dunes, flow into the Caspian. In front of the sea, the rivers form large deltas, which change their shape every year. Here, on the coast, among the reeds, there is a real oasis of life. Sandpipers, herons, geese and cranes nest in the water. Flocks of partridges live in coastal thickets and the loud meowing of a reed cat is heard. Despite the fact that the local forests are not so large, wild boars, jackals and red deer live in them.
The deepest canyon in Russia is located on the Sulak River. Its length is more than 50 kilometers, and the average depth is 1200 meters. The canyon is divided into three sections - the Main, Chirkeysky and Miatlinsky. The most fascinating of them is the Chief. Where the walls of the canyon converge especially close, its depth reaches a maximum of 1920 meters (for comparison, this figure is only 1600 meters near the Colorado Canyon). The bottom of the abyss is immersed in twilight. The roar of water raging below is carried by a booming echo in the surroundings, and clouds of water dust are constantly hanging in the air.
Inner Dagestan is an endless labyrinth of mountain ranges, rock peaks and gorges.