Fishing peninsula map with settlements and. Rybachy Peninsula - the place where the earth ends
we, of course, could not refuse the offer to trample on the northernmost geographic point mainland European territory. Yes, and they promised different beauties ... things in the teeth, a camera around the neck, jumping into the car - we are going to the Rybachy Peninsula.
Strategic map of the area with important notes :) blue dotted line - our approximate route 
the weather in the Arctic is all so sudden. and if the never-setting sun accompanied us all the way to Teriberka, this time we passed almost the entire way in foggy milk. almost the checkpoint and the barrier did not slip through :)) - access to the peninsula itself has been open since not very long ago, but harsh guys in uniform are interested in the purpose of visiting) 
after the barrier, the civilized road ends. the cars are clustered, the guys are pitting the wheels - they are getting ready for the delights of off-road life :) and then beauty begins.
the Titovka river and the cascade of waterfalls Melnichny. 
I would love to spend more time on the waterfalls, but it was evening, and it was still a long way to go to the place of spending the night .. limited to a couple of views 
five-minute rest before the mountain pass. 
the fog thickens. Musta Tunturi - mountain range separating the peninsulas average and Rybachy from the mainland. 
driving along the pass in the fog is still a pleasure. visibility tends to zero - I'm going there, I don't know where. 
mountain roads can be dangerous even if they are not high mountains. 
rescue operation to get a stuck tractor. they say he has been resting here since the beginning of spring) the operation ended successfully, after 2 days on the way back, they got just at the very moment when they managed to pull him onto the road. 
the fog has cleared, the pass has been passed - we are on the Sredny Peninsula. 
in general, Sredny and Rybachy are often called in one word - Rybachy. but in fact there are two peninsulas - one passing through the isthmus into the other. Average in Rybachy. 
the time on the clock is midnight, it was decided to stop here. 
having dinner (or what is the name of the meal after midnight? :), we explore the surrounding area. a suspended project of a hotel - a recreation center (according to the plan, it should have already been commissioned). very nice project, I hope someday it will still work. we walked to the houses, looked - if everything is completed, it will turn out great. there are not many cozy places of rest on the coast of the Arctic. 
the next day came - there is a long excursion along the Middle, but by the evening we should get to Rybachy itself. the path is expected to be difficult) 
we go along the coast. if you look very carefully - you can see Norway :) 
somewhere around here:) here and sms come "welcome to Norway". Pts nice, but the connection on the phones was turned off just in case :) 
A lonely sail turns white in the blue fog of the sea ... 
subtle natural toning. once again we were lucky with the weather, it seems that there is not much sun, but it is not cloudy either. 
us there! I like places where there are not many people, to put it mildly) 
our little gang 
They promised to show us "two brothers". what is it, what does it look like? .. we drive the first car: "Guys, tell me at least where to look? what if we miss it?" ...No, they say, don't miss it! You will see, you will immediately understand!
and really .. they didn’t miss and understood :)) 
"Two Brothers" are multi-meter stone remnants located on the coast of the Sredny Peninsula. In ancient times, they served as landmarks for fishermen, and the Sami considered bizarre stone sculptures to be sacred, they performed sacrifices and pagan rites here. 
brother one. 
and another brother. 
There is a beautiful Sami legend about the Noids. it means that they are not brothers, but the groom and his wife. well, it doesn’t matter .. the spectacle is impressive in any case) 
view from the viewing stone away from the brothers) 
encyclopedic reference: the peninsula is a plateau, abruptly breaking off to the sea. The plateau is composed of shales, sandstones and limestones. 
a few kilometers from the "Brothers" there is another interesting place - the Coast of Red Stones. or the Coast of White Stones (apparently, from the weather on this moment, depends:)) 
stones of amazing alien shapes honed by the ocean-sea. 
yes, and indeed - the stones in the sun are red. 
and without it - white. 
selfie - holy :) 
I've also guarded the surf a bit. the most difficult thing is to simultaneously catch a wave and a ray of the sun, which peeked out timidly from behind the clouds)) 
the panorama in a narrowed form looks so-so .. I recommend to see it live :))) 
perfect place for lunch. 
I also didn’t know that there are eagles on the Kola) 
to be continued...
Rybachy Peninsula, which is located in Murmansk region- a very interesting place. Rybachy Peninsula will certainly appeal to those who love travel, trips to nature and sea fishing. Photos from trips and travels to this unique place can be found online as well as in travel magazines. There you can also find reviews of experienced tourists-lovers of outdoor activities and interesting photos amateur anglers.
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You can get to the Rybachy Peninsula from Murmansk. The main thing is to think over the route of the trip in advance, because due to the complex weather conditions a trip to Rybachy can fail. To get to the Rybachy Peninsula from Murmansk, you must have a map with you. The Rybachy Peninsula in the Murmansk Region is one of the most interesting places on the map of the north of Russia.
Travel to the Rybachy Peninsula in the Murmansk region: why you should go there
For those who love leisure in nature, it is not at all necessary to leave Russia for this. Our country also has very interesting routes. In the north of Russia, beyond the Arctic Circle, is the city of Murmansk. This is one of the northernmost cities in Russia. From Murmansk you can easily get to the Rybachy Peninsula.
There are several reasons where Rybachy should definitely be visited. These are the following reasons:
Those who are interested in national history and military glory Russia will certainly want to return to Rybachy again and again. Here you can still find shells and other artifacts that have survived from the time of the Great Patriotic War. The heroic past of the Rybachy Peninsula is even sung in the famous Soviet song dedicated to farewell to the Rocky Mountains. There are industrial enterprises, fishing farms and reindeer farms.
Murmansk region Rybachy peninsula: fishing for outdoor enthusiasts
This place has a "speaking name": Rybachy. It is no coincidence that the locals dubbed this peninsula is like that. The Rybachy Peninsula provides everyone with a unique opportunity to have a great time on real sea fishing. You can fish both with a fishing rod and with a more modern spinning rod equipped with a variety of additional devices. They go out to sea, usually by boat or boat. You can get on sea fishing in the following ways:
When fishing, you can easily catch the most diverse marine fish, which a resident of the Russian middle zone usually sees only in stores. It is good to catch both large cod and small capelin. If you are very lucky, you can see real fur seals basking on the seashore.
On the peninsula there are a large number of private fishing farms and tourist bases designed for fishing enthusiasts. You can rent transport and fishing equipment at the camp site. Those who are afraid to go to the open sea for the first time without an escort can take a competent instructor with them - an experienced fisherman who will help you organize fishing properly and get a good catch.
For fishing, you should choose calm, calm weather. It is dangerous to fish in a storm, so if a tourist plans to go to Rybachy specifically for the purpose of fishing, it is advisable to check the weather in advance.
While fishing, you can take unique photos. Northern sea waters rich in fish, so even a novice amateur fisherman will not be left without a solid catch. Everything you need for fishing (bait, clothes, accessories) can be purchased at local fishing shops. The best time for fishing is the short northern summer. From time immemorial, local residents have been engaged in fishing, hence the "speaking" name of the peninsula. You won't find fish like this anywhere else. Sea fishing in one of the coldest and northern places our country is an occupation for real men and passionate lovers of fishing.
Rybachy is located in northern Russia, so the climate there is very specific. So, when going on a trip, you must definitely take warm clothes with you: a jacket, boots, warm hat, waterproof clothing for sea fishing.
The Rybachy Peninsula is rich in mushrooms and berries. Passionate mushroom pickers should be aware that during the mushroom season blood-sucking insects rage in the local forests, so you should definitely take protective equipment with you - insecticides and repellents. Those who go into the forest for "silent hunting" should wear long-sleeved clothes so that their arms and legs are reliably protected from bites.
Those, who go to Rybachy in the summer, in the midst of a local tourist season, must pre-book places in a hotel or at a camp site, otherwise there may simply not be free places.
When traveling, be sure to take your camera and camcorder with you. On the territory of the peninsula there are big problems with cellular communication. In order to talk on the phone with relatives or friends, you have to specifically look for a place where mobile communication catches.
The peninsula has several nature reserves And national parks. During your stay in these places, you must strictly observe the rules of conduct that are mandatory for all visitors. : do not make fires, do not leave behind garbage, do not pick flowers and do not break tree branches. In case of violations of generally accepted rules, the violator risks paying a hefty fine.
On the territory of the peninsula there are places where any hunting and fishing is completely prohibited. Therefore, before planning these events, it is necessary to check with local residents, whether the selected place is forbidden.
Those, who loves animals and is interested in agriculture , can visit the numerous reindeer herding farms scattered throughout the peninsula in abundance.
The Rybachy Peninsula is a unique place in the north of Russia. At this place ancient history and a heroic military past. Those who have ever visited the Rybachy Peninsula usually return there several times. The majestic northern nature makes people's hearts freeze with admiration. However, it is not recommended to travel to Rybachy with small children because the weather on Rybachy is very severe. – ideal for those who are interested in nature native land and loves extreme tourism. Rest here is inexpensive, but will be remembered for a long time.
To be honest, I was supposed to spend those weekends flying over the Solovetsky Islands. But the weather forecasts were depressing and I didn't go. The pilots drove there just to look at the places there. And I have already been there and the prospect of wandering around the islands in cloudy weather (when I was there before in sunny weather) did not inspire at all. Stayed at home. And then I was offered to accompany me on a trip to the Middle and Rybachy peninsulas in our Kola.
The weather, by the way, was also predicted to be severe. However, choosing between two places where to freeze (in an apartment or in nature), I chose the second option. Well, at least take a ride, look and decide on the future with an already leisurely trip to the most northern edge our region (sorry :))).
I have already written about the beginning of our expedition... Unexpectedly, after a good night's sleep under the roar of a waterfall, having refreshed ourselves with sandwiches and tea or coffee, we moved along the Titovka River to the north. The most courageous three climbed onto the roof of our "all-out-roader" and from there surveyed the surroundings, entertained themselves with stories and anecdotes from life. The sky on the horizon gave hope. God, how we were sorely mistaken!
Although the car was tossed from side to side on pits and potholes, like a fragile boat during a storm, this did not stop sometimes from getting a camera and taking pictures right on the go, of course, with insurance from both sides. Moreover, the insurance was extremely reliable: sometimes it was impossible to bring the camera to the nose - my comrades held me so tightly. Although, to be honest, most of the way then passed through the usual monotonous tundra, where there was nothing to catch my eye, so I didn’t get the camera.
I must say that we met a lot of people: fishermen and tourists in ordinary cars, and companies of ATVs and cyclists, and "jeepers".
Such is the tundra, such is the landscape ...
We are approaching the pass. After a short stop, the people also wanted to hang out on the roof and a whole "bed" of us was placed there.
We passed the pass and almost immediately the goal of our trip appeared in front of us.
Traces of fierce battles during the Great Patriotic War are found everywhere here.
And there are many monuments and obelisks to the heroes who defended the Arctic.
The sun came out again. As it turned out later, this was his farewell greeting.
Once again it illuminated the sea, but somewhere far behind in the south. And on the course we were met by a low dark sky, a wind in the face and a drizzle with fog. On the roof, we had been riding together with a partner for a long time - the rest were blown into a dry large "cabin". It's good that halfway through I put on a windproof and waterproof raincoat, like my neighbor on the perch on the roof! It was impossible to photograph anything along the way - dampness instantly settled on the lens filter. And why the hell did I get involved in this adventure?
However, we got there! Cape German - the most north point Kola Peninsula and the European part of Russia. Further only the ocean and the North Pole.
Birds overhead. Sometimes I had to bend...
The wind is still whistling from the north, bringing drizzle. It turns out that you take one shot and wipe the filter glass for half an hour, turning away. So there will be no gradient filters, water blur and other "artistic" things. Pure chronicle of events and statement of facts. Unfortunately. Moreover, on such trips everything happens according to the principle of "galloping through Europe": there is little time, but you need to see a lot.
The cliffs on the coast impressed me very much.
There was also something to see in the water. "Polarik" would not hurt, of course, but wind it up in the rain ...
I am shocked by these rocks. Individual strips of the size and shape of the machete could be separated from the array. The edge of such a cleaver turned out to be almost as sharp.
Do you know this plant? A lot of interesting things are said about him.
Sea ocean.
So the quad bikers caught up with us. Let's go to the beach, apparently.
And we decided to look at the birds. There are a lot of them there and they were not happy with us.
Still would! Only, there, the small ones hatched. Do not fly, do not really know how to run. They hide, freeze and wait for the uninvited guests to leave. Please do not swear - all precautions have been taken. The photo was taken from afar with a "telephoto" at the maximum approximation (and cropped even more to enlarge). We are not enemies of nature.
Yes, there are two more lighthouses right there: old and new, working and not.
On one I was "ashamed" to go (judging by the sign, overtaking was allowed somewhere :))), and on the other I climbed, of course.
An unearthly picture from it opens in one direction (and in the other and in the third - gray fog).
And on the fourth side - that cape with rocks, where we had to go further.
Well, again, everyone is assembled and waiting only for me. He threw his backpack behind his back, rolled down the rotten stairs ... Let's go.
The distance was very short, so they arrived quickly. And immediately climbed the cliff - look around.
The "drawing" of the local rocks is also very textured.
What kind of forces have tried so hard? Looks extraordinary.
Here I could not stand it, went down to the foot of the rocks and rushed to the shore, while the people were busy with photo shoots. But I also wanted to climb the second peak of the neighboring cliff. In general, I ran and ran along these stone folds and scared them a little with a camera.
I looked, and they were already walking on that peak ... I hurried to them.
I looked back at the stone waves on the shore.
Here is the top. The wind is strong here. And the review is great.
Thanks for the photo to a beautiful stranger, whom we found here sitting on the top and looking into the distance all alone (I myself like to do this according to the mood in my solo outings, when I'm not in a hurry). And the girl travels alone (!) on foot (!) around the peninsula (!). Here I am already writing at home, and she is still there (the guys said that she plans to finish the trip by the end of July). From my "bell tower" I can only envy her: and how many different things you can see slowly, and nature, for sure, will give you a chance to capture it in good weather.
Oh, how on purpose one of our members of the trip came up to the same place where I was, for the scale.
Again, with regret, I leave this place too - it's time to move on.
Our movement is closely watched from the air...
We pass Skorbeevka ... Once upon a time there was a real military settlement here, there is even a four-story house, a couple - smaller and a bunch of small ones. Interestingly, with us on the trip was a man who lived here at one time. To my question: "where are the mines for missiles?" answered that there were mobile complexes here. He showed where the "headquarters" and the household infrastructure of the village were. Now the wind is blowing and desolation reigns here. It is clear that, as is customary with us, everything is broken and torn apart, pieces of wood have been removed from everywhere: either under the fires, or for other purposes ...
Once again I was convinced: almost always where there is no person, there is beauty :))
Cold northern waters.
I found here a small fragment of the same rocks as in Vaide Bay.
Around the rocks and stones ...
And suddenly - real beach! Where is the sun and my bathing suit?!
Wandered along the shore back and forth, breathed sea air and went to the camp: we got up here for the night.
I am sure that all of you, well, or almost all of you, have heard about this place at least once, but perhaps did not attach any importance to this. Remember the line from the song "Rybachy melted in the distant fog ..."? So this is what they say about him - about the Rybachy peninsula, covered with eternal glory, located in the very north of the European part of Russia
On Kola Peninsula I have been many times. But all these trips were in autumn, winter or spring. It was impossible to go there in the summer. But - I wanted to. And not just in summer, but always on a polar day, when the sun does not go down below the horizon. And now the trip planned a few months ago seems to be taking shape - and proven friends are ready to keep company, and there is a suitable car, and the boss does not mind. Let's go! Our goal is the Rybachy Peninsula.
The Rybachy Peninsula is the most Northern part European Russia. This border area, therefore, to visit it, it is necessary to issue passes at the Murmansk Border Detachment or at the FSB Directorate for the Murmansk Region - the procedure is simple, but can take up to a month of waiting.
TITOVKA
We got out of Murmansk only in the late afternoon - buying food, fuel, packing luggage and canisters took almost half a day. We flew about a hundred kilometers along the asphalt and behind the border control post, crossed the Titovka River over the bridge, turned right off the road - the journey began! There are four of us - Vladimir Kondratiev from Murmansk, Alexander and Evgeny Zarodov (father and son), as well as the author of these notes. Transport units - prepared for the trophy "UAZ" on the "collective farm" bridges and 500 cc ATV Polaris.
We move along Titovka. The history of the name of this river and the bay of the same name in the Motovsky Bay goes back to XVI century, however, then it was called Kitovka because of the mass release of whales onto land. In ancient times, Sredny and Rybachy were islands and there was a “whale crossing” between them and the mainland. Over time, the land rose, but the age-old instincts of the animals remained.
The exact purpose of these seid stones in the Saami culture is still not clear. Whether they served as landmarks in the desert tundra, or were used as religious attributes
Soon we stopped on the shore to the parking lot. We had a bite, admired the completely shameless ducks stealing our bread, and drove on - there is nothing to waste precious time sleeping. Light after all, a polar day!
PASS
The only road with big land monks of the Pechenga monastery were also building on Rybachy for their horse carts. Then, after the Soviet sappers, in 1940, the first tank passed through it. During the war, it was occupied by the Germans - until now, fortifications and barbed wire are everywhere around. And left and right, under the slopes, the remains of equipment are lying around, serving as a sobering factor for any driver. The road is tricky - winding turns, then rises, then descends from hill to hill. I can imagine how hard it is here in winter in ice or blizzard. It’s not for nothing that, probably, since the war times, the stream before the ascent is called Drunk - here it was supposed to pass a glass for good luck, and on the descent Sober - in order to drink cold water and take a break, wiping sweat from your forehead ... Around the amazing beauty of northern landscapes with saucers of lakes looking into the sky between the hills covered with soft moss and reflected in the water somehow unreal in green. True, having barely descended from the pass, we found ourselves under low dense clouds and a fine, sluggish rain, which later accompanied us throughout the trip.
HISTORY LESSONS
We go around the Motovsky Bay. To the east goes the legendary Musta-Tunturi - a four-kilometer ridge, the only section where German troops could not cross our land border. From June 29, 1941 until the end of the war, the front line here remained unchanged! But the names of all the dead defenders of Musta-Tunturi are still unknown. Every year, searchers pick up and rebury their remains. But to the right of the road is the camp of one of these teams. Despite the early morning, the attendants are on their feet, water in the cauldron gurgles on the fire. They invite you to sit down, treat you with tea, show you your find yesterday - a military-style flask with the surname of a soldier scrawled on it. We get acquainted with the leaders of the group - Alexander and Ksenia. They are from Nikel, they have been working with schoolchildren here for more than a year. The city administration supports - allocates tents, equipment. Yes, such history lessons will be remembered by the guys for a lifetime!
STRICTLY NORTH
We skip Big Lake - the former garrison of anti-aircraft gunners, almost a city. In 1959, an air defense regiment with a missile system was transferred here from Tallinn, the same one from which a U-2 spy plane was shot down near Sverdlovsk a year later. And in the fall of 1994, the last residents left the village.
The vector of our further route points strictly to the north along the Bolshaya Volokovaya Bay. We drive along the coast, breathing in the real Arctic wind at the stops. Even inclement weather does not spoil the joyful mood from the anticipation of a meeting with the peak point of the trip. And that's all, they've arrived! Vaidaguba, German Cape - only the Arctic Ocean and the North Pole are farther! Historians believe that people have lived here since the Stone Age. In the 16th century, merchant ships moored on Vaida (translated from Finnish as “change”), trade was carried out. German is usually interpreted as "foreign". It seems that everything is mixed up on this small piece: the ruins of an old pier and a monument to the defenders of the Fatherland, a Sami well and a completely modern weather station, stones with mysterious signs and ... a solar-powered payphone.
DESERT COASTS
We collect water from an ancient well in an eggplant and head to Cape Skorbeevsky. Another Cold War legacy, another abandoned garrison. An eerie sight...
We spend the night near the waterfall on Zubovka. I can’t even believe that earlier these lands were so populated that the Dutch traveler, enveloping Rybachy by the sea in 1594, seemed to be alone big city- there were so many buildings on the shore.
SECRET PLANS
It's time to reveal a little secret here. In addition to the usual desire to visit Rybachy, I had one more goal. Now that the “secrecy stamp has been lifted” and the system for issuing passes to the border zone has been worked out, it is a real pilgrimage here in the summer. Jeepers, motorcyclists, cyclists, walkers… But almost everyone travels along the same route in the central and northwestern parts of the peninsula. There are even firms that specialize in off-road tourism, taking clients to predetermined points, almost like along the Golden Ring, only with planned adventures in the form of fords and destroyed bridges. But nowhere did I find any mention of their visit to the eastern part of Rybachy. Even in Google Earth, this area is hidden for some reason by a veil of "illegibility". So let it be "our little edge of the Earth"!
Roads in the tundra are unpredictable. This is hardly vehicle someday he will ride - his destiny is to become the prey of "metal hunters"
BPM
Leaving the Zubov Bay, we rush to the east, towards Tsyp-Navolok, along the rocky coast of the sea. After a couple of kilometers we see smooth sandy surfaces and the remains of many fortifications - during the war there was an alternate airfield. And soon we find ourselves on the VRM. This abbreviation is deciphered both as “Let's drink, guys,“ Moskovskaya ”, and as“ The patrimony of meteorological fishermen ”, and as“ Here are the ruins of the lighthouse. latest version now the most faithful - since 1953 there was a fan radio beacon (BRM). According to the signals sent by him, warships and cargo ships were guided. Some analogue of the modern GPS system. In 1979, the outdated design of the lighthouse was replaced by a new one, but soon no one needed it. From the former genius of human thought, in addition to the ruins of a two-story building, auxiliary and outbuildings a few 75-meter towers remained, placed for almost five kilometers along the sea.
CHICK-PILLOW
We entered Tsyp-Navolok after midnight. As expected at this time of day, normal people were already asleep. We stopped in the center of the village near the lighthouse, looked around. Nobody. Only a couple of dogs run around the car and beg, barking softly. We notice that a door opens in a house nearby and a figure of a young guy in a shirt and camouflage pants appears on the threshold. The building is located behind a low fence and a gate with a star. Let's go and say hello. It is difficult to talk, because the cold, almost icy wind almost knocks you down. Visiting guests are rare here, so the conversation is quite official: “Who are they, where from, why, do you have passes to the closed zone?” We are at a military facility where civilians are not supposed to be. Zhenya is jokingly interested in the presence of a shop or stall in the village, which immediately defuses the tense atmosphere - we are invited to the house to drink tea. I have never eaten such delicious bread that sailors bake in Tsyp-Navolok! Better than any croissants! Andrei is a midshipman-contractor and has been serving here for several years. He grumbles that they pay little, but is not going to leave yet: “I feel at home here, and who will teach these young people? All the same, it rests on the midshipmen. ” Although most of the strength of 27 years, no more. And the philosopher: “What is there to do in winter besides work? I’m writing poetry out of boredom - last year I wrote the whole notebook!” And after tea, he gives us a real apartment for the night with six almost closely standing soldiers' beds and a stove.
VISIT MIHALYCH
The usual drizzle is pouring from the sky, and sleeping under a warm roof, and not in a wet tent, is the height of bliss. Therefore, the morning begins closer to dinner and ... with one more check - this midshipman dropped in and said that we should show up with documents at the outpost. The border guards in these parts own all the functions of power - from the priority for the protection of borders to the police and "fish supervision". While we were washing and getting ready, the head of the garrison himself visited us. The serious mustachioed officer meticulously studied the papers, but after looking business card”- a magazine with material about our March trip to Cape Svyatoy Nos, his eyes softened and the tips of his mustache crawled up - everything is fine, his own! It's time to sit down at the table together, because besides getting to know each other, there is another reason - the most important, perhaps, in this situation - today is Navy Day! After a small buffet, Andrey Mikhailovich proudly showed his farm. Behind the shabby facade of an outwardly unsightly barracks, it turns out that there is a completely modern building with all the amenities and with a European-style renovation. There is a sauna and a la swimming pool on the street. It is difficult to imagine with what difficulty all this was built and delivered along the “roads” on which the military “Ural” “takes off” three wheels per trip, and the same VRM masts serve as landmarks in winter. But nevertheless people live and work. On the territory of the village there is a weather station, founded already in 1921, a functioning lighthouse, from which we have an amazing view of the stormy Barents Sea, Anikievsky Island (oh, the weather would be better!) And the deserted coast for many, many kilometers around. But even at the beginning of the last century, there was a fishing post of the Savin brothers, the largest buyers of fish in Murman, there were houses of the colonists, a church and even a Red Cross hospital.
STONE CHRONICLE
Weather conditions did not allow us to get to Anikievsky Island. Here is what is written about him in the Guide to the Russian North, published in 1898: “During the stop of the steamer in Tsyp-Navolok, it is curious to visit the Anikeev island lying near it, one of the plates of which is a stone chronicle of Murman. It is all carefully and beautifully covered… with carved names of Danish, German and Dutch skippers who came to Murman for fish in the 16th, 17th and XVIII centuries. The inscriptions are especially beautiful: Berent Gundersen 1595, 1596, 1597, 1610, 1611, 1615 blef jeg frataget skif (“they took away my ship”). Below, under the inscription, a warrior is depicted ... "And even further:" The Russian inscription carved in a curly letter is beautiful and interesting: Summer 7158 (according to the new chronology, this is 1650. - Approx. ed.) Grishka Dudin grieved. And the expedition of M. Oreshty in 1995 discovered even an earlier Pomeranian autograph: “Shurechanin Vasily Malashov was standing in 1630.”
ON THE BACK WAY
Almost a day spent in Tsyp-Navolok flew by unnoticed. In two days we definitely had to return to Murmansk. We say goodbye to the hospitable hosts and, as usual at night, we start. Although what kind of night it is, rather a light twilight.
If you look at the map, then there are several roads leading to Ozerok - the nodal "crossroad" of Rybachy. We choose the shortest, but, as it turns out later, the most difficult - "Zubovsky tract". He goes through the mountains among the tundra swamps flooded with multi-day rains. Puddles, often as deep as the hood of a lifted UAZ on 35 wheels, come across every 50-100 meters. And stones, stones, stones! The speed of advance is about 3-5 km / h. It is sometimes even easier to ride a quadric, as you can go around obstacles along the edge, but the wind and rain make it a very difficult walk.
STONE GIANTS
After 12 hours of non-stop travel, the loop along Rybachy closed, and we went down to Sredny. Now the direction of movement is counterclockwise. From Cape Zemlyanoy we go along west bank along a long 30-meter cliff, built of the thinnest slate plates, through which many small springs make their way. The famous "Two Brothers" are gigantic remnants. Some kind of mysticism is blowing here - it is not without reason that the Sami have since ancient times considered Mount Pummanki to be the habitat of sorcerers (noids). According to legend, two of them - the brothers Noid-Ukko and Noid-Akka - were punished for their atrocities and turned into these stone statues.
38 STARS
A little further on the high bank we meet a practically untouched coastal battery of the 1950s (judging by the nameplate on the gun, it was made in 1946). Multi-level system of moves, mechanisms in lubrication. During the war, the 221st battery was also based here, which destroyed a German minesweeper on June 22, 1941 and thereby opened the combat account of the USSR Navy. The barrel from one of her guns with 38 stars (according to the number of enemy ships sunk) now lies in a ship cemetery about four kilometers from this place.
GLORY TO THE HEROES!
We spend the last night on this trip at the exit from Sredny, on the bank of the river under the Musta-Tunturi ridge. Sanya Zarodov tells how, while still a schoolboy, he participated in the installation of the first obelisk on it. Carried sand upstairs in a backpack for the foundation of the monument. Suddenly, our camp is illuminated by the sun peeping out of the clouds - in a week we have already weaned from it. We look at the brightened mountains and somehow automatically begin to discuss the route of the next trip to the North. Severe beauty, the attraction of the North, the end of the Earth - seemingly banal phrases, but ... oddly enough, very honest and appropriate here.
"Two brothers", who were worshiped and feared by the Saami, considering them to be petrified evil sorcerers. Now, at the base of the northern remnant, a geocache cache is hidden
The very edge of European Russia, the Rybachy Peninsula, is an ambiguous and amazing place. It will not leave you indifferent: someone will be captivated by the rare beauty of many waterfalls, lakes, littoral and sand dunes, someone will be surprised by the unique combination of dynamics and statics - the majestic peace of the rocks and the continuous movement of the sea, and to someone this land will seem harsh and inhospitable.
A few years ago, after almost half a century of “closedness” from the rest of the world, Rybachy again became accessible to travelers.
Only 100 kilometers from Murmansk - and the magnificent and mysterious northern region begins.
Coast of the Rybachy Peninsula.
Civilization has long since left these places, and now everything here breathes history: mysterious stones that have stood since the time of the fishing of the Lapps, seids, mysterious stone guards, numerous batteries, fortified firing points and trenches - the echo of war, which is heard especially clearly on Rybachy. Traveling to this legendary land allows you not only to touch the secrets of the past, but also to test the strength of technology and yourself. It will give you an incomparable pleasure of discovery.
A variety of people meet on the roads of Rybachy: a jeep from Krasnodar, a motorcyclist from Munich and a caravaner from Belarus. And this is not surprising, because Rybachy is not just a place on the map, it is a different life. Maybe that's why he so easily wins the hearts of those who crave adventure.
Rybachy Peninsula - geographic reference
The Rybachy Peninsula, the northernmost part of Russia, is located on the Lapland coast of the Northern Arctic Ocean. Geographically, it belongs to the Murmansk region.
Not everyone knows that Rybachy actually consists of two peninsulas: Rybachy proper and Sredny. They are connected by a small isthmus about a kilometer long. And very often, if special clarifications are not required, the peninsulas are called by one name - Rybachy.
Fragment physical map Kola Peninsula.
Another isthmus separates the Sredny Peninsula from the mainland, on the continental part of which the Musta-Tunturi ridge is located. The middle one is a plateau that abruptly breaks into the Barents Sea. It is composed of limestone, sandstone and shale. Max Height on the peninsula - 334 meters.
The length of Rybachy from Cape German to Cape Gorodetsky is about 60 km. The width of the largest southeastern part of the peninsula is 25 km.
The local shores are made up of black shale rocks, above which, in the inner part of Rybachy, there are hills and mountains covered with tundra vegetation. The highest of them is called Eina, its height is 299 m.
peninsula-washing waters Barents Sea thanks to the North Cape current, they do not freeze all year round. There are a lot of fish in coastal waters: capelin, cod, herring.
The northernmost part of the Rybachy Peninsula is German Cape.
The climate of the Rybachy Peninsula is special, due to its location almost in the middle of the Barents Sea. The weather on the peninsulas can be seriously different even from the villages of Pechenga or Zaozersk located near the sea. This is due both to the nature of the Barents Sea and to the fact that the peninsulas are separated from the mainland by the relatively high Musta-Tunturi ridge. The mountains may not let bad weather in, but on the contrary, they may block the way for rain clouds that will hang over Rybachy for months.
In summer, the sun hangs over the horizon around the clock, and therefore local times years do not coincide with the generally accepted seasons. It's cold here all year round, even in summer average monthly temperatures do not rise to 20C, and at the same time the weather changes very sharply.
On the Rybachy Peninsula in early summer. View of the Middle. On the horizon is the Musta-Tunturi ridge.
The best time for a rally is the second half of summer, when it is still warm on the peninsula by local standards. In June-July, mosquitoes and midges are found on Rybachy, in August they are gone.
Local roads are also special. It is not worth moving along them on an unprepared car, especially without crankcase protection installed. It should be borne in mind that they were built a very long time ago, at a time when the peninsula was a closed zone, they were operated mainly by the military, which have their own requirements for cross-country ability. Recent years twenty, after most of the garrisons were closed, no one here was involved in the roads. The conclusion from all this is clear.
On the other hand, with an experienced driver extreme points Rybachy was also reached by ordinary cars.
Brief historical outline
The first people came to these lands during the Mesolithic period, that is, about 10-12 thousand years ago. Their sites have been preserved, characterized by a small area and a thin cultural layer. Scientists argue that this indicates that the first settlers on Rybachy were few in number and led a mobile lifestyle. They were gathering and hunting reindeer.
Archaeologists have noticed an interesting detail: the settlement of the peninsula came from two directions - south and northwest. They proved that Rybachy had long been inhabited by people from the Volga-Oka interfluve and from the territories of modern Finland, Norway and Karelia.
Later, the Sami or Lapps lived on Rybachy, a Finno-Ugric people who were engaged in reindeer breeding and fishing. The Pomors got along well with them, the descendants of the Novgorodians who once came to these regions rich in fish and furs. Pomors were engaged exclusively in trade and "marine" business.
Vida lip today.
Since the beginning of the 16th century, active fishing has been carried out in these parts, there are 16 fishing camps, numbering 109 fishing huts. These camps, which included Tsyp-Navolok, Vaida-guba, Zubovo and others, periodically fell into disrepair, then flourished.
In 1865, the Russian emperor invited Norwegian and Finnish colonists to these lands, who came here from Finnmarken and Varanger Fjord. They, unlike most Pomors and Saami, who by that time appeared on Rybachy only in summer, began to settle in a harsh region.
After Finland gained independence, it was given West Side peninsulas. The border passed along the isthmuses and cut the Middle one almost in half.
Immediately after the Soviet-Finnish war in 1940, the separated territories were returned to the USSR. new frontier between the countries held on the water to the west of the Sredny Peninsula.
Mass grave of the defenders of Rybachy.
During the Patriotic War, fierce battles took place on Rybachy and in its coastal waters. The peninsula became a key area of defense on the way to Murmansk. During the entire war, the Nazis failed to advance an inch in this direction, for which the inflexible Rybachy was named the Granite battleship. For almost four years, the Nazis could not take the peninsula and break through to Murmansk.
After the end of hostilities, the peninsula is being rapidly developed. A special role here belongs to the military, which is explained by the close proximity to the border of Norway - a member of NATO. Several secret military facilities are deployed on the peninsula, so its territory was closed to any visits.
Despite this, work is being carried out on Rybachy to restore and increase the deer herd destroyed during the war years. Geologists also work here. In the 70s of the last century, the geological base of the Academy of Sciences was opened on the Middle. Its employees are engaged in unique studies of the earth's crust using magnetohydrodynamic (MHD) generators.
Unfortunately, since the mid-1990s, life on the peninsulas has come to a standstill. Most of the military garrisons are disbanded or withdrawn, geologists and geophysicists are also curtailing their activities. Buildings and property remain abandoned. Since that time, the peninsula has been opened for visits by Russian citizens.
The history of the Rybachy Peninsula is associated with many interesting facts, which can move the traveler and study the history of the region more deeply, and move away from the well-trodden routes.
Not far from Tsyp Navolok there is Mount Anikievka, on the slope of which is the grave of Aniki the warrior. This rather unpleasant character distinguished himself by depriving the fishermen who sailed to Tsyp-Navolok of part of their catch. He said that he would stop the requisitions only when there was a person who would defeat him in a fair duel. Such was Ambrose, a monk of the Pechenga monastery. They fought for a long time in a stone circle, in which they later buried Anika the warrior, who was killed in a duel.
The famous poem "The Son of an Artilleryman" was also born on Rybachy. In the autumn of 1941, Konstantin Simonov arrived on the peninsula. Among the stories about the battles for Musta Tunturi, the story of how the regiment commander sent his friend's son to correct the artillery fire was especially sunk into his soul. The spotters were behind enemy lines and called fire on themselves. Simonov worked all night on the work, in the morning it was ready and over time became one of the best poems about the war.
Nikolai Bukin, the author of the words of the famous song "Farewell, Rocky Mountains", also served on Rybachy. A participant in the first battles for Rybachy, an artilleryman and a correspondent for a front-line newspaper, he managed to find words that touched the soul of everyone, which is why many consider this song to be a folk song.
Another relic of those years is carefully stored on Rybachy - the border sign, which remained on Musta-Tunturi, in the territory not captured by the enemy. Despite the fact that this was a section of the old border, the significance of this fact was enormous.
The history of the first Russian research vessel Perseus is also connected with the peninsula.
The ship, rebuilt from a whaler, in 1922 goes on its first voyage. Perseus took part in 99 expeditions, carried out scientific and commercial and hydrological research, his contribution to domestic science would be truly fundamental.
In July 1941, the legendary ship was sunk by Nazi bombers in the Eina Bay of the Motka Bay. Then the skeleton of Perseus was covered with stones and turned into a pier. Thanks to this, fragments of the ship's hull set can still be found on the shore.
Historical landmarks
There are many seids on the peninsula. This is the name of boulders of various shapes and sizes that stand separately in an unstable position. Most often they are rounded, from 0.5 to 10 m long. The locals believe that the Sami sorcerers - noids, when dying, turn into such stones, therefore they consider them sacred. Scientists have proven that seids transmit energy, passing it from stone to stone, and change the level of radiation above them.
It is worth noting that in our time, almost any free-standing stone is taken for seid. But most of them are products of the destruction of rocks, or simply brought by a glacier. But it is better to look for real Sami seids with an experienced specialist.
Map of attractions and memorable places Rybachy and Sredny. From the book of M. G. Oreshty “Orphaned Shores”.
In the Zubov Bay, the northernmost center of rock art in our country was found. Local petroglyphs have one feature: the image, drawn with ocher on the rock, was later duplicated by some kind of sharp tool, scratched on a hard surface.
Several sites of ancient people from the Paleolithic and Mesolithic times were discovered on Rybachy. They are located in the Zubovskaya Bay, on the Pyaiva and Maika rivers. There are "shamanic circles" here, as the burial places of people of the Stone Age are called, and the sacred stones of the Saami in the Middle, to which the ancients made sacrifices.
On Anikiev Island (located opposite Tsyp-Navolok) you can see a unique stone chronicle. The plate is covered with carefully carved names of skippers who went to Murman for fish in the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries. There are names of Dutch, German and Danish sailors here. Russian merchants were also noted on the stove. The famous fisherman local historian Mikhail Oreshet managed to find the earliest autograph of V. Malashov, who visited these parts as early as 1630.
One of the bunkers guarding the Rybachy coast.
Most of the monuments to Rybachy belong to the period of the Great Patriotic War. They are scattered across the peninsula: preserved bunkers, fortifications, commemorative signs and mass graves. There are a lot of them near Musta-Tunturi, where the most bloody battles took place.
If you climb the ridge, you can see the German fortifications carved into the rocks, there are also memorial signs and many burials. At the foot of Musta Tunturi there is a museum dedicated to the memory of the defenders of Rybachy. It was created and preserved by Yuri Alexandrovich Kobyakov, a former geophysicist who worked here. This museum also houses an unconquered border marker taken from Musta Tunturi.
Abandoned position of the anti-aircraft missile division with the call sign "Lockout".
There are many other "monuments" on Rybachy. These are abandoned military camps, which once housed military units. Skorbeevka, Ozerko, Four, Lockout, Zubovka… The list goes on. These settlements were born with difficulty, they lived joyfully and brightly, they died absurdly and hard. Today it is a kind of museum of the frozen Soviet era, ghost villages lost in the tundra, which are occasionally visited by travelers.
Abandoned 152 mm artillery battery.
Natural attractions of the peninsulas
The nature of the Rybachy Peninsula is unique and extraordinarily beautiful. The views are breathtaking. If you get out of the car and walk along the tundra, you will get a lot of pleasure: everything is visible for kilometers ahead and something interesting is found at every step. Either an exotic animal or bird, or handsome reindeer, or a rusty “echo of war”. And how many berries and mushrooms! Blueberries, cloudberries, pods, whites and even northern ginseng.